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un primed or not they are still solid as a rock???

Where did you hear to add .005" (.005 is thousands)? Sounds like it might be good advice! I have only done this using stock lifters that are still solid like a rock/ 0.005 is not much, so I don't see its going to hurt your wear pattern there which looks to be just shy of the very center of that valve stem

Interesting that you guys are flooring installers, my wife has a carpet business since 1997 my stepsons and wife are all flooring installers by trade :) Carpet, tile, laminate, I have been schooled!!!
A comp cam tech guy told me . .050.. not .05 the new lifters out of the box were used. The plunger went down. All the other methods we tried would not work.
I've been an installer for 27 years..my brother has been 20 years.
 



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The pushrod length is based on a lifter not compressed, thus a solid lifter is often specified to figure the pushrod length. But is isn't a must, the trick is to take measurements from when you know the lifter is not compressed. The best wear pattern will basically be where the roller is centered when the valve is half way open. So knowing the concept of the goal, you can figure it out without special tools/lifters etc.

As the pushrod gets longer or shorter than ideal, the wear pattern on the valve stem tip will move towards one side or the other. That's where an adjustable pushrod is the most handy tool to figure it out.
 






The pushrod length is based on a lifter not compressed, thus a solid lifter is often specified to figure the pushrod length. But is isn't a must, the trick is to take measurements from when you know the lifter is not compressed. The best wear pattern will basically be where the roller is centered when the valve is half way open. So knowing the concept of the goal, you can figure it out without special tools/lifters etc.

As the pushrod gets longer or shorter than ideal, the wear pattern on the valve stem tip will move towards one side or the other. That's where an adjustable pushrod is the most handy tool to figure it out.
We never could get the proper marking using a solid lifter or a pumped lifter. Tried for over 2 hours. We did get close to the same number, but the marking was never in the center..
Comp cam said use a brand new out of the box lifter,(no oil in it)same type you are going to be using(roller,flat tappet or solid) get to zero lash, roll the engine over twice and check the mark. Which we did, get close to the center of the valve stem as possible, which we did, then add .050 to the over all length when ordering new pushrods.
Now you have me second guessing here...
 






The .050 they are suggesting is to account for the lifter preload that is part of the full installation. The lifter preload is also variable in what people suggest, you hear 3/4 turn, 1/2 turn, 5/8 etc. I learned all that in about 1982 the last time, I called and spoke with three cam guys, asked what the actual preload should be.

I took from that the most believable to me was about lifter .033 preload. I installed a rocker assembly and measured the movement for the adjustment stud nut. I found for that thread pitch of that 3.8" stud, I needed almost 3/4 of a turn to achieve the desired .033" preload. So the next engines I built were simply insuring the studs had the same common fine thread pitch, and make the adjustment 3/4 of a turn after zero lash. That's where the common turns come from, someone does the fine detail research etc, and breaks it down to easier to follow methods and terms.

A solid lifter used for the pushrod measurement is very good because you can set the valve lift at half, and then adjust the adjustable pushrod to place the roller tip in the center of the valve. That's the best way to find the pushrod length to begin testing the marking method with. That usually ends up getting it very close immediately.

So pushrod lengths are available in certain sizes, aim for a length just under the extra .050" size calculated, not the next size longer.
 






So I ordered a timing Chain from the local partas store, they didn't have one in stock.
I'll be damn, a double roller Cloates came in with adjustable crank sproket!
2-4 * advance or retard. I put it in straight up AFTER I degreed it again with the new chain and gears.
Had my Toque monster headers flowed cfm.
VERY SUPRISING RESULTS! In stock form, they outflow MAC shorties for a foxbody 42cfm!! Additional work was done on the inside to get more air moving.
 






A comp cam tech guy told me . .050.. not .05

0.05 is 5 hundredths
0.005 is 5 thousands

Just want you to be able to get this correct! If he told you to add "5 thousands of an inch" then he was saying 0.005
If he said "5 hundredths of an inch" then he meant 0.05
You can google it

Putting a zero after the five does nothing to change the actual dimension. 0.050 is the same as 0.05 or 0.0500000000000000000 of an inch

If you cannot get the correct wear pattern on the valve stem then you may need to increase or decrease the length of the pushrod?? Which is why we use an adjustable pushrod to measure....
 






0.05 is 5 hundredths
0.005 is 5 thousands

Just want you to be able to get this correct! If he told you to add "5 thousands of an inch" then he was saying 0.005
If he said "5 hundredths of an inch" then he meant 0.05
You can google it

Putting a zero after the five does nothing to change the actual dimension. 0.050 is the same as 0.05 or 0.0500000000000000000 of an inch

If you cannot get the correct wear pattern on the valve stem then you may need to increase or decrease the length of the pushrod?? Which is why we use an adjustable pushrod to measure....
I used an adjustable pushrod. Finally got it in the middle of the valve stem, and it was 6.400. So I ordered 6.450 lengths. The comp cam tech guy told me to ad 50 thousandth to the length when I ordered the pushrods.
Appriciate the info
 






New oil pump installed.. put the oil pan on and timing cover. That's it until the heads and intake get back from the porter
IMG_20200524_200134_934.jpg
 






:popcorn:
 






When I did my mustang, I took an old roller
lifter, took the clip out, gutted the inside
shimmed it up with washers and reassembled
for a solid lifter.
 






Yeah..I did the shape thing..even used an old roller lifter that was froze up.. I could not get the right reading on the valve stem any other way except doing like that comp can rep said do
 






So..just a little update that most of you 302 explorer guys might appreciate on the Torque Monster headers... I had them flow tested. Yeah, I had them put on a flow bench to see what power they actually will support. I'll just say this, in stock form, right out of the box..they outflow Foxbody
1 5/8 shorties! Matter of fact, after some magic work was done to them ..they are very close to a 1 3/4 shorty LS header flow numbers
 






Got some parts back and cleaned up..
 

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