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MyNameIsAric's 98 FULL width SAS

I will keep this first post updated with my progress so people don't have to weed through all the boring crap associated with these buildup threads.
So far I have:

Front axle:
Dana 60 35 spline kingpin high pinion from a 79 f-250/350
detroit locker
dedenbear knuckles
5.38 gears
alloy usa shafts
longfield u-joints
warn hubs (should have went with drive flanges)
high steer arms with full hydraulic steering

2x8 double ended cylinder from
steering valve out of an old forklift
misc. hoses and fittings from

Rear axle:
Dana 60 30 spline low pinion from a 79 f-250/350 (should have went with a 14 bolt)
full spool
5.38 gears
Disk brake conversion

16.5" hummer h1 8 bolt double beadlocks recentered with custom stazworks centers.
36x12.50 wrangler rt II 6 ply military bias tires(sucky but cheap)

Things I need still:
new rims and tires and hopefully she wont shake so bad at 60mph.

Got axles

Got a new truck so i can dismantle the explorer and tow it around when i'm done.
Welded Diff covers


Rear axle almost done


Front axle almost done

Rear axle under truck

Welding up rear driveshaft (yes, it is square)


Machined parts for the upper control arms





Made coil buckets

Made lower control links




Mocking up Front axle and welded up hydraulic ram mount.





Got myself a forklift orbital for my hydraulic steering


welded on lower control arm mounts

Dropped the front IFS

Sent it to the scrap yard

IFS gone

Front axle starting to go in.



off jackstands




Took out the A/C system and cruise control. Also removed ABS brake controller, but I ended up having to put it back in later for the speedo to work.

Mounted new/slightly larger fluid reservoir for the hydro system.

Mounted the stock power steering cooler for the hydro system

Got this mounted in the engine bay where the A/C junk used to be

Had to chop down this thing first though.

Made some tie rods out of 100% grade A beef.

Installed hydraulic ram and tie rods.

View of the filter, and you can see the high pressure hose running from the pump down to the steering valve.

This is how i connected the stock steering wheel to the steering valve. 3/8" swivel

Better view of the steering valve.

Poor planning caused track bar issues

Made a new track bar bracket

Cut off first track bar bracket

Plated for good measure

Welded on new track bar bracket. Still had minor interference so i move the axle forward another 1/2"
Also started putting on shocks.




Tacked a tone ring to the rear d60 carrier

Reinstalled tone ring sensor so i can get speedometer back

blah blah blah tidied things up and poof.... an explorer that can only go 55mph now. If you have questions, just ask or PM me.

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I'll know mid september where I'll be at for October. It'll either be the weekend of Oct 16-17 and if I'm pullin the jeep back out, I'd at least like to make a full weekend of it. Even if it's green, quarry and maybe some orange and get some good camping in. If I end up in training for work, I'll have alot of weekends. Also, I just joined which is a Chicago area club. They're open to all but alot of smaller jeeps. Lookin for more wheelin options, may want to check it out.

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got the new belt on. (71.5") and i got the whole steering system plumbed. changed the oil. and when i went to start it, i threw the jumper cables on, but nothing happened. not even after charging it for a while and/or revving the engine. so i'm getting a new battery tomorrow when i return the 2 belts that didn't work (69.125 and 70.5 were too short).

I still need to connect the steering shaft to the steering valve. i have an idea in my head and it requires an old socket and a swivel joint.

hopefully this thing cranks up and steers tomorrow.

I'm surprised you found a belt that was an eigth of an inch - I only find ones that are either full numbers of halfs - like 70, or 70.5. Good to know that there's more depth to this :).

I still need to connect the steering shaft to the steering valve. i have an idea in my head and it requires an old socket and a swivel joint.



Impact socket and swivel for strength?

there's no force required for hydraulic steering. i had some 3/8 drive junk laying around, so thats what i'll be using.

She cranked up today after putting a new battery in. cycled the ram with a ratchet and got my tie rods on. tomorrow i should be fabbing the connection between the steering wheel and the steering valve. I also need to fill the front diff with 80w90 and grease the longfield joints (cant find the grease fitting... :( ).

well she runs and steers. the panhard needs to move back. complete interference with the hydraulic ram. especially with 2 friends in the truck. but here is some pictures of the setup.


Finally getting there!

I'm still plannin on Attica that October weekend. Also, I may have a new tow rig. I'm lookin to downgrade and reduce my payments and found an 02 F350 with a V10. It'll get the job done. It'll just be alot of gas. Oh well, $200 extra in my pocket is nice!

I'm lookin forward to some midwest wheelin!

Well i am completely unhappy with my coil buckets at this point. I have no idea what i was thinking when i made them. The buckets themselves are good, its the hairbrain retaining idea that i had that is killing me now. So I'm just double checking to make sure i dont need anything else from ballistic fab before i purchase a new panhard mount and coil buckets. I'm also ordering shock towers from wild horse

Here is a good picture of my panhard issue. see how close it is to the tie rod?


Here is my steering linkage. I still need to drill a hole for a retaining pin (not that i think it will come out anyway, but better safe than sorry) and yes, it is 3/8" drive hardware, but this hydraulic steering is truly effortless. Even when the stops are hit, you just feel a little feedback in the steering letting you know its done.

I also flipped the steering ram around because if the panhard could travel, it would have sheered the fittings on the ram :rolleyes: The hoses are much happier now too.

you can see the steering valve here. Big hose is jic 8 feed line. the 2 90* fittings are the lines running to the cylinder. The return line isnt visible, but its just a 3/8" barb fitting running to cooler.

just spent a bunch of money at ballistic. Ordered the f-250 shock towers. wild horse wanted $105 shipped, partsmike wanted more than that, so i tried the ford dealer i got my tow mirrors from and got 4 shock towers shipped for $51.

If anyone is interested:
part number E5TZ 18183A

edit: forgot to order the panhard mount.... guess i'll be making one.

wish i would have spent the time and put this kind of effort into all my homemade brackets....

cutting them out on the saw

Cut, deburred and the pilot hole.

Sandblasted and jigged for welding (added an extra 1/32" shim so i wouldn't have to use the bfh to get everything in.)

Final product and i get to keep $30 in my checking.


you do really nice work! I wish I put that kind of effort and skill into any project I make.

Thanks! it helps to have the machine shop at my disposal some times. I couldn't have made it that nice at home.


So all that complaining and we don't get any info on the coil bucket and spring retainer issue?

P.S. I'll be picking up my V10 next week. We can have gas race towing wars. V8 w/ a heavy sploder vs. v10 and a lighter jeep! Ha!

HA! i dont even think my edge tuner will even this matchup at all. As long as the ground is flat, i can do 70mph in overdrive. Any sort of hills and i get to cruise in 3rd gear.:rolleyes:

can anyone think of why a nitrous pressure gauge wouldnt work to monitor my hydraulic pressure? i have a temp gauge already installed, just need to hook up the sending unit, and i'm not sure if i should hook that up on the pressure side or the return side/reservoir.

The nitrous gauge will prob work - as long as its rated high enough (3000 PSI max?). Just stand back on the first pressure test in case it decides it says 'no' to the pressure.

As for the temp gauge sending unit, you probably want that measuring reservoir temp.

thanks iz! the gauge i'm looking at is 1600psi, but my valve is only rated for 1500. its a electronic gauge, so there will not be any high pressure in the cab.


It looks like the weekend of Sept 24/25 is an Attica weekend. Gonna make that? It's supposed to be a DDO run, and I plan to partake.

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you talking attica indiana as in badlands