TepidRodExplorer
New Member
- Joined
- January 4, 2023
- Messages
- 2
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- 123 Main St
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 98 5.0 EB
Hi all,
Long time lurker, finally blew a head gasket and could really use some advice. For context, the car is a 98 EB edition 5.0 with around 140k. It is my dependable daily driver and road trip vehicle, I have owned it since around 100k and as far as I know it has never been apart. I've been solving coolant leaks for a while as hoses and clamps have gone bad, but while driving recently it got a little hot, then the upper coolant hose exploded, I pulled over immediately and let it cool. I fixed it on the side of the road but when I got her started she was misfiring. Had her towed home and found a small amount of coolant in the oil and a smell coming out of the radiator like exhaust and death. Compression test failed on the passenger side, I believe I blew the head gasket between a coolant passage and the exhaust, then overheated and blew the rest of the gasket between cylinders.
Anyway, I have removed the upper intake, egr, fuel lines, wiring, etc etc. I am ready to remove the lower intake, just waiting on the camshaft position sensor tool. There are now two issues preventing me from removing the heads.
#1 is the a/c. I have read on here that it is not necessary to remove and drain the a/c system, that I can remove the bolts holding the compressor to the accessory bracket and slide it away from the engine enough to access the head bolt underneath. I have also read that I can unbolt the accessory bracket with the power steering pump and a/c compressor still attached, support it somehow, and that will also give me access to the bolt.
My question for you all is do I need to be concerned about an a/c line rupturing or spraying refrigerant in my face if I were to attempt either of these methods? The car is obviously not driveable so I can't take it somewhere to have it drained, perhaps I can find a mobile mechanic willing to squeeze into my cramped garage but I imagine it won't be cheap, and then I will need to have it recharged later. I have absolutely no experience with a/c stuff so I could really use some guidance from anyone who had tackled this issue before.
Additionally, I was wondering if I could get away with simply replacing only the blown headgasket. Compression was normal (145-150) on the driver's side, the passenger side had 3 cylinders with low compression. If I don't bother with the driver's side head I won't need to touch the a/c, but I'm well aware that its not proper to replace one side only. What would I be risking by trying to only replace the passenger side, besides having to eventually replace the driver's side when it gives up?
The second issue I have is much easier to solve, but I figured I would ask since I'm here. A little embarassing but I can't get the bolt out on the back of the engine that holds the transmission dipstick. I have a big ass breaker bar and I've applied aerokroil and pb blaster but I can't get it. I smacked the breaker bar with a hammer and only suceeded in breaking a socket and slightly rounding the bolt. I have trouble getting back there due to a back issue and its a tight space to work in, anyone have any tricks or tips on removing it?
Please, if any of you reading have done this job I would really appreciate your advice or insight. I need to get this car back on the road asap as it is winter where I am and my other vehicles have summer tires and are too overpowered, too unreliable, and too low to drive to work in the snow. Also I hope that I've included enough keywords in this post that any answers can help someone else in the future.
Thanks!
Long time lurker, finally blew a head gasket and could really use some advice. For context, the car is a 98 EB edition 5.0 with around 140k. It is my dependable daily driver and road trip vehicle, I have owned it since around 100k and as far as I know it has never been apart. I've been solving coolant leaks for a while as hoses and clamps have gone bad, but while driving recently it got a little hot, then the upper coolant hose exploded, I pulled over immediately and let it cool. I fixed it on the side of the road but when I got her started she was misfiring. Had her towed home and found a small amount of coolant in the oil and a smell coming out of the radiator like exhaust and death. Compression test failed on the passenger side, I believe I blew the head gasket between a coolant passage and the exhaust, then overheated and blew the rest of the gasket between cylinders.
Anyway, I have removed the upper intake, egr, fuel lines, wiring, etc etc. I am ready to remove the lower intake, just waiting on the camshaft position sensor tool. There are now two issues preventing me from removing the heads.
#1 is the a/c. I have read on here that it is not necessary to remove and drain the a/c system, that I can remove the bolts holding the compressor to the accessory bracket and slide it away from the engine enough to access the head bolt underneath. I have also read that I can unbolt the accessory bracket with the power steering pump and a/c compressor still attached, support it somehow, and that will also give me access to the bolt.
My question for you all is do I need to be concerned about an a/c line rupturing or spraying refrigerant in my face if I were to attempt either of these methods? The car is obviously not driveable so I can't take it somewhere to have it drained, perhaps I can find a mobile mechanic willing to squeeze into my cramped garage but I imagine it won't be cheap, and then I will need to have it recharged later. I have absolutely no experience with a/c stuff so I could really use some guidance from anyone who had tackled this issue before.
Additionally, I was wondering if I could get away with simply replacing only the blown headgasket. Compression was normal (145-150) on the driver's side, the passenger side had 3 cylinders with low compression. If I don't bother with the driver's side head I won't need to touch the a/c, but I'm well aware that its not proper to replace one side only. What would I be risking by trying to only replace the passenger side, besides having to eventually replace the driver's side when it gives up?
The second issue I have is much easier to solve, but I figured I would ask since I'm here. A little embarassing but I can't get the bolt out on the back of the engine that holds the transmission dipstick. I have a big ass breaker bar and I've applied aerokroil and pb blaster but I can't get it. I smacked the breaker bar with a hammer and only suceeded in breaking a socket and slightly rounding the bolt. I have trouble getting back there due to a back issue and its a tight space to work in, anyone have any tricks or tips on removing it?
Please, if any of you reading have done this job I would really appreciate your advice or insight. I need to get this car back on the road asap as it is winter where I am and my other vehicles have summer tires and are too overpowered, too unreliable, and too low to drive to work in the snow. Also I hope that I've included enough keywords in this post that any answers can help someone else in the future.
Thanks!
