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I dont see how you will set the tension on the blower idler pulley, wheres the slack adjustment bolt?



Tighten locking bolts 3/4 the way down with belt on. Smack top edge of blower belt tensioner bracket with mallet and it will tighten down. I agree that it is somewhat rudimentary but it does the trick.

If he has a little welding skill he can attach a tensioner lug and bolt to the bottom engine side of that bracket that will pull it tight and then he could lock the bracket down. A little extra work but it would mean that he wouldn't have to smack it with a hammer each time he wants the blower belt taut.
 



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Tighten locking bolts 3/4 the way down with belt on. Smack top edge of blower belt tensioner bracket with mallet and it will tighten down. I agree that it is somewhat rudimentary but it does the trick.

If he has a little welding skill he can attach a tensioner lug and bolt to the bottom engine side of that bracket that will pull it tight and then he could lock the bracket down. A little extra work but it would mean that he wouldn't have to smack it with a hammer each time he wants the blower belt taut.

:wtf::hammer:
 












I just used Champion coppers 2 ranges ? cooler since thats what I throw in every non N/A car :D. I used a AEM gauge with singe wide band O2 drilled into the exhaust after the first cat.


Rocket already answered your question about the tensioner. And no I cant weld. Not even sure how I passed my welding class in college. But I have a fellow co-worker who could help me with that. Personally I would prefer not to have to permanently attach anything to the engine.
Reserved, do you have a part number for the spark plugs you use?

Rocket , if your still there, I would appreciate any and all help with this project. You guys are the experts, if you offer assistance, i'm not going to pass that up. Your post on the wideband cable pretty much went over my head, but i am trying to do my homework. This obviously wont happen overnight.

Classic Powerdyne? Kind of a slap in the face, but then again I cant disagree with that. Lousy customer service, lousy instructions, but it's what I have to work with. It could of been Vortech but every attempt to contact them was a waste of time. Several attempts without a e-mail or return call. Leaves a bitter taste.
Thanks for taking time out of your Holiday weekend to respond.
 






nothing special, I just asked what the stock champions in copper were and they looked up 2 ranges cooler, you might only need 1 range, Im running more boost and drive like an idiot with it leaned to mid 12 AFR. Make sure you have good spark wires for the extra stress placed on the ignition system and use spark plug boot protectors.
 






nothing special, I just asked what the stock champions in copper were and they looked up 2 ranges cooler, you might only need 1 range, Im running more boost and drive like an idiot with it leaned to mid 12 AFR. Make sure you have good spark wires for the extra stress placed on the ignition system and use spark plug boot protectors.

Your running a built bottom end I assume, being 331. What is your compression ratio and how much boost are you running? Mine is all stock 302 with 166K but good compression. 6lbs of boost will hopefully be safe. I really dont drive a whole lot of miles per year. Maybe 8k. Im close to pretty much everything like work , restaurants, entertainment, etc. I,m not set up for towing yet so no camping trips in a while. We take my wifes Alero to the beach. And if it's any great distance, we fly. But I work for the airlines so it's just a matter of showing up at the airport, deciding where we want to go and if there is open seats we go. I do have the spark plug boots. With the TM headers they are pretty much a requirement. The plug wires were picked by a shop that I took the truck to right after I bought it. There is a number on the receipt (STW 6925) which I have no idea what that means but they set me back $90 bucks.
I didnt think mid 12's on the A/F ratio was lean but is that the case on a boosted engine?
 






not really lean but 12-1 is safer. Im at about 8.3-1 or so comp ratio, with the stock pulley I think I barely hit 2 PSI with this engine so I had to overdrive it. Im sure it'll be fine in your truck running 6PSI, stock is basically similar to a 93-95(cast piston) 5.0 Mustang bottom end. Worst thing to happen might be a head gasket leak, I would also run a 180deg thermostat instead of 190.


PICT0032.jpg


PICT0031.jpg
 






not really lean but 13-1 is safer.



Hey bud slight mixup there. A 13:1 AFR is less safe and more lean than 12:1 AFR. :thumbsup:



BTW purdy engine...
 






oh yea,:monkey: I should have gone to sleep at around 2 am, I mean 12-1 is much safer, i'll change that. I really hope that paint stays that way, used epoxy primer on a bare wheel abrated block and painted with PPG? urethane paint in the body color code.
 






You can get the analog cable from James Henson. Or you can just cut a 6 pin Firewire cable up and use that since it is the same thing.

The LC-1 wideband is one of the least expensive ones out there. Most any other wideband you get will cost more. There are many options for widebands. I will be installing a AEM wideband and boost controller into a customers car this next week so that will be my first experience with AEM products. So far from my reading it looks like a REAL easy wideband and gauge setup to install. I am looking forward to seeing how quick it goes.

Get a GM 3 bar MAP sensor Part #12223861 to log boost with. I have created detailed wiring instructions for doing a nice datalogging cable for the wideband and MAP sensor to attach to that will plug into the Livewire so once you are ready to do the analog input configuring I can be a huge help to you there. I can also provide you with the custom analog formula I created for the GM 3 bar MAP for use with the Livewire too. Shoot me a PM when you are far enough along to need this info. Good luck and have fun with the install.

Well, it's cool and wet here today. Was hoping to get some much needed yardwork done. The wife went grocery shopping and I did a little shopping of my own. I ordered the GM 3 Bar MAP and a pigtail connector. Wasnt sure if I needed it (the pigtail) but it was cheap so...:rolleyes:

I have firewire cables all over the place from my computer builds. Just wasnt sure if the one's that Henson Performance sells has special insulating properties to deal with engine compartment heat.

I may have an issue with the fan clutch nut. I thought I had a wrench that would fit it, but I dont. I did find a set of universal wrenches for this purpose at the local Harbor Freight store for $30. And they connect to a 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar so I know that I can properly torque it. I like to torque everything.

It's all slowly coming together. I,m in a hurry to get this project done but at the same time I want to know and understand what I am doing so I,m forcing myself not to rush things.
 






Powerdyne should have included a flat steel bar with a notch to fit over the clutch fan nut.
 






Powerdyne should have included a flat steel bar with a notch to fit over the clutch fan nut.

Hmmm, I must of got the pre-mod demo kit.

Canada?
 






I have firewire cables all over the place from my computer builds. Just wasnt sure if the one's that Henson Performance sells has special insulating properties to deal with engine compartment heat.

I may have an issue with the fan clutch nut. I thought I had a wrench that would fit it, but I dont. I did find a set of universal wrenches for this purpose at the local Harbor Freight store for $30. And they connect to a 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar so I know that I can properly torque it. I like to torque everything.



You will run the wires from the MAP sensor and from the wideband (When you get it) into the cab where you can then tie into the analog 6 pin firewire cable and then go from there into your LW.

Rent a clutch fan wrench set from Auto Zone. It is free when you return them. That is a good option unless you are like me and use any excuse to buy a new tool.
 






You will run the wires from the MAP sensor and from the wideband (When you get it) into the cab where you can then tie into the analog 6 pin firewire cable and then go from there into your LW.

Rent a clutch fan wrench set from Auto Zone. It is free when you return them. That is a good option unless you are like me and use any excuse to buy a new tool.

:confused: I apologize for my ignorance, But when you say run the wires from the MAP sensor into the cab...What wires are you referring to? Is there a wire harness I need? None was included with the Map sensor. Though I did purchase the pig tail connector for it. The wideband I understand.

By the way, do you sell the wideband also? I,m still looking for the best deal on one.
 






This post is explain how to datalog boost using a Raptor. The best and only real way to do this is to get a GM 3 Bar map sensor and hook it into the Raptor.

The GM 3 Bar Map sensor is the one used by FAST and DFI and is very accurate. If you purchase this sensor at a local dealer or through Napa it can be very expensive (up to $100). Save yourself some money and get it for half the price.

Go to http://www.gmpartsdirect.com (thanks Ken B for the source) and put in part #12223861. It costs $55.04. Do yourself a favor and also get the wiring harness for the sensor Part #15305891 for $18.79. The install will be much cleaner if you plan on exposing the sensor.

Once you get the parts there are 4 different steps to this install.
1. Hook up the vacuum line to the 3 bar sensor
2. Wire the 3 bar map sensor
3. Wire the sensor to the raptor
4. Configure the raptor

Step 1: Hook up the vacuum line to the 3 bar map sensor.
This is very easy. There is only one vacuum port on the sensor. Take your vacuum source and cut it. Buy a Vacuum T and slit the signal so that it also goes to the 3 bar sensor. For those with 03-04 cobras this can all be done behind the glove compartment which is where the boost source line is. I have an 04 cobra and keep my 3 bar sensor behind the glove compartment so that its completely hidden.

Step 2: Wire the 3 bar map sensor
You will need a 5V source to supply power to the sensor. The perfect source is the TPS sensor. Depending upon what year and make of your car it will be a little different. The best way thing to do is to disconnect the plug to the TPS sensor, and then turn the key on the car without starting it up. Take a multimeter and see what pin is (+)5 volts. You might read as high as 7 volts. That is ok. Before you do any wiring always make sure the key is out of the ignition.Take the 5 volts to Pin C on the sensor. Take a good ground and connect it to pin A on the sensor, and then you'll take Pin B and wire it to the raptor. See next step.

Step 3: Wire the sensor to the Raptor
Before you wire this step make sure the Raptor isn't powered up to the Laptop or that the raptor isn't plugged into the OBD2 port.

Take Pin B of the 3 bar sensor and wire it to the analog cable on the raptor. I used analog 3 of the raptor which is the thin orange wire on the analog cable. You can use anyone you want. Make sure that you ground red if aren't already using the Raptor to monitor a/f. Here is a chart of the wires.

Analog 1 - Black
Analog 2 - Brown
Analog 3 - Orange
Analog 4 - Green
Ground - Red (shield also works)

Step 4: Configure the Raptor
Once the Raptor is powered up and connected to the car follow these directions.
1. Go under configure and make sure that you sure you check the analog input you are using.
2. Go under analog configuration and put the formula in for the analog input that you assigned the 3 Bar map sensor.
3. The formula is V*9-14.7 Make sure you put in -14.7 on the 2nd half of the equation.


You should now be good to go. Once you start monitoring the analog input that you assigned the map sensor you will see a negative number when the car is idling or part throttle under vacuum. Once your car starts generating boost you see the number go positive and reflect your actual boost number.

I think I just answered my own question.:p:
 






I think I just answered my own question.:p:






James Henson has the LC-1 widebands available. Give him a call.

That is nice information but you will configure things slightly different with your Livewire. That formula is not correct either though it is close-ish. The BASE formula you will input into Livelink will be (v*8.702262)-14.50377 which will get you real close. If you are a perfectionist like me then you will want to check for boost offsets to make sure things are dialed in as close as 1/10th psi. For instance, the formula I use to log boost in the Turbo LS is ((v+.126)*8.702262)-14.50377 which allows me to get real accurate with the boost logging in the range of boost I have the turbo/wastegate set at.

Another tip is when you mount or place the MAP sensor in your engine bay do it with the boost reference nipple facing downward. This will ensure that if any moisture does enter the vac system that it will not be able to trickle down and land on the silicon chip causing inaccurate boost signals at the very least.

I am attaching that wiring diagram I talked about. I made this for when I made the modular harness to tie a wideband and 3 bar MAP sensor into the Livewire analog cable. I am forgetful at times and needed to remember how I wired it. That way if I ever needed to do so in the future I could without thinking. You will primarily use the information contained in the lower right side of the picture for your purpose of connecting your MAP sensor.

Remember that if you split your own firewire cable that the wire colors might not be the same. In that case just look at the pinout reference and do a continuity test to each pin and wire to verify which color of wire represents the corresponding pin. I also left the MAP sensor pinout a liittle vague so that it would not just be GM MAP specific so that I could use that same connector to log other items if I chose. The A, B, C pins in the GM MAP sensor will correspond to the +5v, 0-5v Ref, GND in the diagram. I have the MAP pinout somewhere. If I find it I will attach it. Wiring it this way will keep your MAP sensor modular so that if you want to take it out and put your Livewire and MAP sensor into another vehicle to datalog that you can do so without rewiring. I hope this helps you more than confuses you.
 

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This is a nice looking set-up coming together.

I actually don't like the LC1 wideband too much. It'll get the trick done but I had to jack with mine so much. In all fairness, I don't read the instructions until something doesn't work.
 






James Henson has the LC-1 widebands available. Give him a call.

That is nice information but you will configure things slightly different with your Livewire. That formula is not correct either though it is close-ish. The BASE formula you will input into Livelink will be (v*8.702262)-14.50377 which will get you real close. If you are a perfectionist like me then you will want to check for boost offsets to make sure things are dialed in as close as 1/10th psi. For instance, the formula I use to log boost in the Turbo LS is ((v+.126)*8.702262)-14.50377 which allows me to get real accurate with the boost logging in the range of boost I have the turbo/wastegate set at.

Another tip is when you mount or place the MAP sensor in your engine bay do it with the boost reference nipple facing downward. This will ensure that if any moisture does enter the vac system that it will not be able to trickle down and land on the silicon chip causing inaccurate boost signals at the very least.

I am attaching that wiring diagram I talked about. I made this for when I made the modular harness to tie a wideband and 3 bar MAP sensor into the Livewire analog cable. I am forgetful at times and needed to remember how I wired it. That way if I ever needed to do so in the future I could without thinking. You will primarily use the information contained in the lower right side of the picture for your purpose of connecting your MAP sensor.

Remember that if you split your own firewire cable that the wire colors might not be the same. In that case just look at the pinout reference and do a continuity test to each pin and wire to verify which color of wire represents the corresponding pin. I also left the MAP sensor pinout a liittle vague so that it would not just be GM MAP specific so that I could use that same connector to log other items if I chose. The A, B, C pins in the GM MAP sensor will correspond to the +5v, 0-5v Ref, GND in the diagram. I have the MAP pinout somewhere. If I find it I will attach it. Wiring it this way will keep your MAP sensor modular so that if you want to take it out and put your Livewire and MAP sensor into another vehicle to datalog that you can do so without rewiring. I hope this helps you more than confuses you.

Yeah I knew the article wasnt specific to my application. Just came across it while do some research and thought it was well written and informative even for a novice like myself.

I will call James about the wideband in a couple days. Let him enjoy the holiday weekend first.

I will play around with the LW and try inputing the equation you sent me.

I's been raining on and off (mostly on) for 3 days now. With the help of your diagram I can start building the harness. No room to get the Explorer out of the elements so this will make a good rainy day project.
 






This is a nice looking set-up coming together.

I actually don't like the LC1 wideband too much. It'll get the trick done but I had to jack with mine so much. In all fairness, I don't read the instructions until something doesn't work.

An engineer that doesnt read the instructions?:eek:
Actually i'm guilty of that to.
So what is it you dislike about the LC-1?
 



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This is a nice looking set-up coming together.

I actually don't like the LC1 wideband too much. It'll get the trick done but I had to jack with mine so much. In all fairness, I don't read the instructions until something doesn't work.

The LC-1 is not a bad wideband but it sure as heck isn't nearly as plug and play as some other widebands out there. If I had to list the items I do not prefer about the LC-1 I would say it would be the wiring involved and the ground offsetting. I suppose that is why the cost is what it is. Still, if a person is willing to put the time in then they are some pretty nice and accurate units. Once you understand them then they are pretty easy to operate.
 






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