Need help, lots of it.

[THEXPLODER]

Ok, I got a 98 Explorer Sport, with the 4.0(not the SOHC, the other, I'm guessing OHV?) It's the "X" on the VIN. There's a lot of problems with it... for starters, I don't think my check engine light is coming on when it should. I changed the sparkies, and one was chipped... I'm not a mechanic, but I do know when there's a cylinder misfire 'cause of a faulty spark plug, the Check Engine Light should come on... am I right? Or am I imagining things? Also, the door... oh, where to begin... the actuator's bad, it sticks(the door doesn't want to open), and the inner door handle came off 'cause it didn't want to open, and after yanking on it for a few months, it well.. you get the picture. (Any website I can go to, to get all the parts for the door? And what parts do I need? I don't want to go to the dealer and pay $5000 for all of it, the car isn't even worth that much). Onto my next of many problems... when I accelarate too quickly, my car likes to bog down and jerk, and buck down a couple of times... kind've like a stick shift, when you don't give it enough gas, and let off the clutch too much(that's the best I can describe it too), new tranny time? She's got 172K miles on her... also, lower ball joints bad, but someone said that on these cars, when the ball joints go bad, the entire control arm needs replaced, this true? Or is someone trying to get my money? Also, when accelarating... or just cruising, there's a loud hum coming from the rear end. New rear end time? Or maybe U-joints just need replaced? (Also, the plastic plugs in the hatch and under the driver seat were removed for audio equipment purposes. Could it just be excess noise 'cause of these exposed holes?) I know, I'm better off with a new car... but, I can't afford one right now, and I'm thinkin' a little at a time, and this car could last me well into 300K miles... the engine runs VERY strong, no problems with the motor... the rest of the car, eh... that's another story. Anyways, any help at all would be greatly appreciated.

P.S. On a lighter note, I just joined the site... didn't know it existed 'til like, 30 minutes ago. I got to admit, this is awesome! It's like, DSMtuners.com for EXPLODERS!!! Right on!! Rofl, I might start modding out my ***** after I get her running well enough... how does a 351 swap sound!? OH YEAH! Rofl.

 

[seeyalater]

Welcome to the forum! actually i had my inner door handle break off on my old x. it was a 95, i dont remember how much i got the handle for but i know i went to the dealer to get it, and it wasnt too much.

 

[gijoecam]

First, welcome to the site!! The best Explorer site on the 'net, by FAR!!

Ok, I got a 98 Explorer Sport, with the 4.0(not the SOHC, the other, I'm guessing OHV?) It's the "X" on the VIN. There's a lot of problems with it... for starters, I don't think my check engine light is coming on when it should. I changed the sparkies, and one was chipped... I'm not a mechanic, but I do know when there's a cylinder misfire 'cause of a faulty spark plug, the Check Engine Light should come on... am I right?

Yes and no. It may have still been getting a spark, just not a strong one. Does the CEL come on during the lamp test when you turn the key on?

Also, the door... oh, where to begin... the actuator's bad, it sticks(the door doesn't want to open), and the inner door handle came off 'cause it didn't want to open, and after yanking on it for a few months, it well.. you get the picture. (Any website I can go to, to get all the parts for the door? And what parts do I need? I don't want to go to the dealer and pay $5000 for all of it, the car isn't even worth that much).

Well, the solution is to fix the problem, not pull harder on the handle a-la the Three Stooges (Pull harduh, Moe! Pull harduh! Nyuk-Nyuk!!) That's how the handle broke. You need to fix and/or replace the latch. There's one itty-bitty little spring that's becoming a common failure point. It prevents the little arm in the latch mechanism from moving out of the way of the latch itself, thereby keeping the door latched. Mine did the same thing. IIRC, the latch is $35 at the dealer, and takes maybe an hour to replace. A bunch of people on here have done it (myself included)... it's not terribly difficult. It took me about an hour, and didn't require any special tools, just some patience and a gentle touch.

Onto my next of many problems... when I accelarate too quickly, my car likes to bog down and jerk, and buck down a couple of times... kind've like a stick shift, when you don't give it enough gas, and let off the clutch too much(that's the best I can describe it too), new tranny time?

Sounds like a fuel issue to me. I'd start with the basics... plugs (which I know you already did), wires, fuel and air filters. Odds are it's on the original fuel filter, and it's starving the system.

She's got 172K miles on her... also, lower ball joints bad, but someone said that on these cars, when the ball joints go bad, the entire control arm needs replaced, this true? Or is someone trying to get my money?

Lower ball joints can be replaced seperately. They press into the control arms just like any lower ball joint. Upper ball joints must be replaced with the whole arm, unless someone has already installed the redesigned 1-piece Moog control arms. Their upper ball joints can be replaced seperately.

Also, when accelarating... or just cruising, there's a loud hum coming from the rear end. New rear end time? Or maybe U-joints just need replaced?

Could be either/or. Without being there to see/inspect it, there's no way to diagnose it over the 'net. Find a competent transmission/driveline mechanic in your area and have them take it for a ride, throw it on the hoist, and make an assessment. If it's not a u-joint, they may want to pop the cover to inspect the guts... that alone will run you around $50-$75 because they have to re-seal the cover and refill it with gear oil even if they don't fix anything.

(Also, the plastic plugs in the hatch and under the driver seat were removed for audio equipment purposes. Could it just be excess noise 'cause of these exposed holes?)

Not sure which ones you're talking about... pictures would help.

I know, I'm better off with a new car... but, I can't afford one right now, and I'm thinkin' a little at a time, and this car could last me well into 300K miles... the engine runs VERY strong, no problems with the motor... the rest of the car, eh... that's another story. Anyways, any help at all would be greatly appreciated.

Naaah, she'll be a fine ride. Keep the fluids full (especially the coolant) and change the oil and filter regularly and she'll run a good long time.

P.S. On a lighter note, I just joined the site... didn't know it existed 'til like, 30 minutes ago. I got to admit, this is awesome! It's like, DSMtuners.com for EXPLODERS!!! Right on!! Rofl

{blushing on behalf of the site} We try, buddy, we try. Welcome!

 

[Joe Dirt]

Well no need to answer now! Great post gijoe!

Welcome THEXPLODER... One more idea for you- maybe if you take your truck back to the Louisville Assembly Plant for a little homecoming, she'll feel better.

 

[THEXPLODER]

Thank you all for the warm welcome, and excellent suggestions. I really appreciate everything. I'll get started on checking everything tomorrow in the morning.

Yes, the CEL comes on during the lamp test, that's why I never thought anything of it... but, I just started working at Autozone, and we got that test puller thinger, and everytime someone comes in with the CEL on, it's mostly a cylinder misfire due to a faulty sparkie. And, I'm not too bright(Obviously, with the door thing... Lol)... but when you pull a plug, and the white tip(I think I kept it, I'll try to find it and take a pic) is half missing, then afterwards your gas milage bumps up from 5-7mpg to about 18-19, somethin' was wrong. Also, I remember when my mother first bought the car(she gave it to me, I know "AHHHWW" warm moment! ), she wouldn't tighten the gas cap enough, and the CEL would always come on... well, I drove 26 miles with the gas cap off(again, not too bright..) and my CEL didn't come on again, so it made me question if it's working properly. Also, the car has had a few recalls(including the Firestone tires, and Cruise Control), and I thought they might've disconnected somethin' when they disconnected the CC. I don't know, it's not a big deal... I just got to make sure to stay ontop of every little noise I hear that's not supposed to be there.

Also, I hope you're right about the Fuel Filter thing, 'cause I was already planning on changing it this weekend(I don't think it's ever been changed... my mom's boyfriend was a dipshit, he'd always half-ass the tune ups... that's why I wasn't surprised about the bad spark plug). Uhm, anything I need to know? 'Cause, I'm usually an import type of person, all the fuel filters i've changed were on the firewall, in the engine bay... never under the car, like this one... it looks fairly simple though, unsnap the clips, pull the lines, change the filter, plug the lines, and clip the clips back on?

About the door, is there any link you can get me with pictures to where I can see what spring you're talking about? And maybe step-by-step instructions. I've never actually worked on this car, except for oil changes and the spark plugs, but now... this forum's got me excited about it, lol. I'll take pictures of the car tomorrow, I don't work... I'm telling you, it looks GOOD... for 172K miles on her, she still looks GREAT, even the engine bay, there's no grease, grime, oil build on the motor(the tranny has a leak around the pan, probably the gasket, I'll change that when I change the filter, I do check the fluid to make sure it's got enough in it.) She needs a car wash right now, but it's the snowy season... it can wait. No need to take a shower in the middle of basketball game 'cause you're sweaty, right?

Anyways, thank you all once again for the help. And I still can't believe this site exists, this is awesome! Rofl, I'm loving it. I'll try to post pictures of everything tomorrow, I'll take some pics when I get under her.

 

[Sams01XplrSprt]

welcome to the forum

 

[gijoecam]

Don't worry about the light not coming on. The system runs periodic self-tests, and it would have (eventually) discovered the leaky avaporative emissions system due to the leaky fuel cap. (Mine did, but it took about 3 days' worth of driving before the light came on) Don't worry about it.

I'm surprised it wasn't detecting the mis-fire, but again, it may not have actually been mis-firing. A weak ignition on that cylinder still counts in the system. It may have still been firing enough that it was not detecting a fault. A cylinder contribution test using an NGS or WDS system would have pinpointed it, but that would likely need to be done at a stealership with a knowledgable engine tech.

Can't help much with pictures of the door latch how-to as I didn't take any when I did it. It's pretty straightforward though... Remove the door panel, remove the lower piece of the window regulator track, then carefully and gently pop all the plastic clips off the linkages that connect to it (IIRC, there are four: Outside handle, inside handle, outside key tumbler, power lock actuator), then take the three screws out of the latch assembly. If my memory serves, the linkage that connects to the lock indicator needs to be removed last with the latch out, and installed first before the latch goes in, but don't quote me on that.

-Joe

 

[THEXPLODER]

Ok, sounds easy enough. Once again, I appreciate the help. And I looked at my bank account... $20, after I got paid... ####in' overdraft's, so, I'm gonna have to wait 'til next week to start workin' on the parts that need money(But, I'm sure I can come up with $7 for a Fuel Filter). And to hell with the dealership, they're the ones that told us it was going to cost close to $500 to fix the door. I think I still have the statement in the car from like... 4 years ago(my mom always kept the paperwork)... that's why I never fixed it. And the inner door handle... kind of, uh... you know... came off? Lol. The outer door handle still works, though. Is that common? I have to roll down the window to get out.

 

[THEXPLODER]

Ok, here are some pics of the Explorer. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205027

And, as for the rubber plugs in the hatch and under the drivers seat... well, I was going to have to remove the seat, and pull back the carpet to take a picture, and I'm too lazy right now lol... but, here's an idea of where the one in the back is.

That is located in the back, I pulled the carpet back it's right behind the back seat, all the way to left(I hope this makes sense, 'cause I think I used "back" 500 times) I ran the wires from the battery, under the car to the back, and then from behind the cd player, under the carpet, under the drivers seat through the hole where the plug once was, under the car, and back up through a similar hole in the back. And my question is this: Could this cause excess noise inside the car while driving? Perhaps the humming sound I'm hearing is just the normal sounds, just... it doesn't have that plug there to muffle the sound, you know? Or am I just stupid, and there's probably somethin' wrong somewhere in the tranny/driveshaft/U-joints/Rear end? 'Cause that humming sound only occurs when I have my foot on the gas, wether I'm cruising steadily at 45mph, or accelarating.

 

[gijoecam]

The humming under the conditions you're describing are common signs of either a bad u-joint, or pinion bearings in the early stages of failure. In either case, you want to get it to a driveline shop ASAP. A u-joint is a fairly simple DIY job for any shade tree mechanic, not so much with a pinion bearing. A failed u-joint might tear up the driveshaft if it fails at speed on the freeway, but a pinion bearing failure is going to shred the whole diff, so you need to get it looked at and fixed ASAP.

-Joe

 

[THEXPLODER]

Damnit... all I have is $20 to my name right now, lol. But, I'll change the U-joint next week when I get paid, and hopefully that'll fix it. If not, then I'll take it to a shop. Roughly how much do you think it'll cost if it's the pinion bearing? 'Cause money's a little tight right now...