Need Some Help on My First Audio Upgrade.

[toypaseo]

Well, if it was my setup, I would run a dedicated power wire to your amp.

The more you have on your power wire, the more possible problems like interference, hum, buzz, noise, or whatever...

 

[Dano!]

If i leave what is already there alone, should i run the dedicated power wire also on the passenger side? Would that cause any interference?

My goal is to have the sub + amp in the stock location.

 

[DjDom]

If i leave what is already there alone, should i run the dedicated power wire also on the passenger side? Would that cause any interference?

My goal is to have the sub + amp in the stock location.

You'll get interference if you run the signal wires on the same side as the power wire. If you run those RCA cables from the head unit next to the wire.

If the wire is properly isolated, however, you can eliminate some of the interference.

 

[Mathematics]

I wanted a new pioneer head unit DEH-80PRS but the Guy said he wasn't a fan of pioneer and that the dead unit had problems. I am hoping that someone on

I have the 80PRS and am loving it. Makes going active super easy, and even if you don't go active, the Auto-EQ with the time alignment does wonders. The guy you went to must not sell Pioneer, because their 99PRS is pretty much the top SQ head unit out right now.

For a car that old I'd look at spending $200-300 on sound deadening, especially seal the doors and the area around your speakers. Look up "sound deadener showdown" online for more info. Hertz makes great speakers, but sound deadening will make the biggest difference in what you hear driving down the road. Also make sure to use speaker baffles when mounting the speakers!

I'd also recommend building your own sub enclosure to save some money. I've used the OEM enclosure (first for an 8", then modded to fit a 10") and it was ok, but even with opening it up and fiberglassing to fit the 10", it wasn't solid enough to let the subwoofer shine. The new Sundown Audio SD-2's (http://www.woofersetc.com/p-11182-sd-2-8-d4-sundown-audio-8-300w-rms-dual-4-ohms-subwoofer.aspx) are supposed to be super good and don't require very much space at all (.25ft^3). You might try building a box for one of those in the OEM location, are a small box for 2 subs that you could hide in the back.

 

[Dano!]

Thanks man,
I will check that out when i get home from work. Thanks for sharing your input on the head unit. I appreciate it.

 

[1996BLKBauer]

1996BLKBouer,

Turns out i used 4g wire from the battery to the fuse block. sorry for not checking before i posted.

this is what i was talking about as for a power distribution box.

street wires power distribution box

"This distribution block has a single 3-way ( 2 side and 1 rear) input that will accept up to 1/0-gauge wire. The single 3-way input gives you maximum mounting flexibility by allowing you to connect the input wire straight on or to either side. The direct set screw connections provide superior clamping and low resistance. The block also has 3 front-mounted outputs that will accept up to 1/0-gauge wire."

could i replace the 4g power wire coming from the battery with 1/0 gauge wire and put one of these distribution blocks in the cab to not only run power to my fuse block but also run sufficient power to the 5 channel amp?

Battery --> 1/0g --> Distribution box --> Fuse --> Amp

Branch off again from the distribution box with another fuse before the power wire goes to the fuse block.

i could leave the existing ground for my fuse block and just need to provide another ground down the line for the amp.




DjDom,
Your right, when i read the wire charts, i measured the gauge wire i needed by not only how far away the item is from the battery, but also the return to the battery. used that total length to determine how thick i needed the wire for the amount of amps i was pushing through it + voltage drop.

First lets start with the grounding wire, there is nothing wring with running both power and ground to the battery. The people who run a short ground to their chassis have done modifications to the ground on their battery, called a "BIG 3 upgrade", What this does is upgrade the ground to the chassis, and body in some cases, the ground to the engine block, or alternator braket, and keep the stock ground for the starter, and then upgrade the charging wire from the alternator to the battery. All these wires are usually done in 1/0gauge wire for the most power/amperage transfer. It would be the same price either way for you, since you have not done a "Big 3 upgrade". If you have already done the "BIG 3", then you could easily get away with a 3-4 foot section of 1/0 gauge grounded directly to the frame.


As for the distribution block, you sure can do that. But what devices do you have running off of the fuse panel? if they are sensitive to voltage drops and spikes, it may be a good idea to get a second battery to absorbs those differences as much as possible. I know somebody might suggest a Capacitor, but please stay away from those. A second Battery will perform much better.

Hope this helps you out a little bit. I am sort of going through the same situation in my own truck, so I don't know everything, but everything I say is true, and is good advice.

 

[DjDom]

First lets start with the grounding wire, there is nothing wring with running both power and ground to the battery. The people who run a short ground to their chassis have done modifications to the ground on their battery, called a "BIG 3 upgrade", What this does is upgrade the ground to the chassis, and body in some cases, the ground to the engine block, or alternator braket, and keep the stock ground for the starter, and then upgrade the charging wire from the alternator to the battery. All these wires are usually done in 1/0gauge wire for the most power/amperage transfer. It would be the same price either way for you, since you have not done a "Big 3 upgrade". If you have already done the "BIG 3", then you could easily get away with a 3-4 foot section of 1/0 gauge grounded directly to the frame.


As for the distribution block, you sure can do that. But what devices do you have running off of the fuse panel? if they are sensitive to voltage drops and spikes, it may be a good idea to get a second battery to absorbs those differences as much as possible. I know somebody might suggest a Capacitor, but please stay away from those. A second Battery will perform much better.

Hope this helps you out a little bit. I am sort of going through the same situation in my own truck, so I don't know everything, but everything I say is true, and is good advice.

I agree, a capacitor is garbage if you want a proper install.

However, many people don't do the 'big 3' upgrade and they still ground to the frame. Which is why so many people wine about grounding issues. Regardless, I doubt the stock ground wires in the truck were made to handle such power.

 

[1996BLKBauer]

I agree, a capacitor is garbage if you want a proper install.

However, many people don't do the 'big 3' upgrade and they still ground to the frame. Which is why so many people wine about grounding issues. Regardless, I doubt the stock ground wires in the truck were made to handle such power.

Yup, spot on with that one, The ground straps where never meant to handle that much power. That is why if you are running a powerful stereo, the BIG 3 is a must.

 

[Dano!]

i have been looking around and different sites sell different types of "big 3" upgrade kits. is there a difference or type of brand that i should shoot for?

 

[DjDom]

i have been looking around and different sites sell different types of "big 3" upgrade kits. is there a difference or type of brand that i should shoot for?

If you have left over wire, you can always use that.

Just go get some decent 0 or 1 gauge wire for the job. Make sure you change the battery terminals to those fancy ones.

 

[1996BLKBauer]

i have been looking around and different sites sell different types of "big 3" upgrade kits. is there a difference or type of brand that i should shoot for?

This is where I got mine from, Tony is an awesome guy! He only uses quality stuff, like JL Audio wire, solid copper ring terminals, heat shrink that glues itself... ect. Check out his site, he has just about everything you would need for your install, and if you have any questions he is more then willing to help you out, he has written 2 books on car wiring, so he can answer just about any question you might have.

CE Auto Electrical Supply


Heck, you are in the Hub for Car Audio, Ca, is where it's at! I am pretty sure Tony is located in Az though, but you got Mechman, Skar Audio, Sundown, XS Power, right at your foot step.

I highly suggest going with the JL Audio Terminals, and Fuse holder. I did that with mine, and they are top notch quality, and look really nice.

 

[Dano!]

the gold plated hoo-haas?

i have a west marine shop up in Fresno, i think their cable is not copper though.

home depot i think are larger single strands instead of thousands of small strands.

since i like to over-engineer everything to make it as close to everything other than act-of-God proof, is there a preference?

standard copper wire vs braided (twisted?) copper wire? solid, plated, steel, ect..

There are so many different types, i would like to buy the right one the first time. do you guys have any input to point me in the right direction before i spend a lot of time researching other peoples opinions regarding what is their favorite?

Thanks again you guys are being awesome. so far i am following what you are explaining.

 

[Dano!]

This is where I got mine from, Tony is an awesome guy! He only uses quality stuff, like JL Audio wire, solid copper ring terminals, heat shrink that glues itself... ect. Check out his site, he has just about everything you would need for your install, and if you have any questions he is more then willing to help you out, he has written 2 books on car wiring, so he can answer just about any question you might have.

CE Auto Electrical Supply


Heck, you are in the Hub for Car Audio, Ca, is where it's at! I am pretty sure Tony is located in Az though, but you got Mechman, Skar Audio, Sundown, XS Power, right at your foot step.

I highly suggest going with the JL Audio Terminals, and Fuse holder. I did that with mine, and they are top notch quality, and look really nice.

i actually just got done reading a lot of information on his site when i posted my last post.

 

[1996BLKBauer]

the gold plated hoo-haas?

i have a west marine shop up in Fresno, i think their cable is not copper though.

home depot i think are larger single strands instead of thousands of small strands.

since i like to over-engineer everything to make it as close to everything other than act-of-God proof, is there a preference?

standard copper wire vs braided (twisted?) copper wire? solid, plated, steel, ect..

There are so many different types, i would like to buy the right one the first time. do you guys have any input to point me in the right direction before i spend a lot of time researching other peoples opinions regarding what is their favorite?

Thanks again you guys are being awesome. so far i am following what you are explaining.

For wire go with OFC high strand wire. OFC standing for Oxygen Free Copper... High strand wire is able to handle more power, then the thick stranded stuff. other wire is mostly Aluminum, and cannot handle high amperage, High Strand stuff tends to break, and like I said not handle as much power, because of less surface material to pass through. Car audio applications seem to have the best... As for Brands

JL Audio
Rockford Fosgate
Knukonceptz
Orion Audio

Just to name a few, There are other good company's, I just cannot think of them right now.