New front end coming soon

[rizzjc]

yes it's better, it makes it easier to do an alignment, and gives you more range in the alignment. It helps more if you have done a torsion twist up or down, but if your stock height you'll be fine with the one piece.

Yeah, what he said. I'm relying on you guys to tell me. And I know what a pain it is to get these aligned, and keep them that way, so I don't want to mess with it. No excuses for eating another set of tires. That's gonna add about $600 to this project, but the camber caused the steel belts to start poking through on the inside of the tire. 70k miles on them, so I can't really complain. Most I've ever gotten out of a set, but was still hoping to put it off 6 months at least.

 

[techieman33]

Yeah, what he said. I'm relying on you guys to tell me. And I know what a pain it is to get these aligned, and keep them that way, so I don't want to mess with it. No excuses for eating another set of tires. That's gonna add about $600 to this project, but the camber caused the steel belts to start poking through on the inside of the tire. 70k miles on them, so I can't really complain. Most I've ever gotten out of a set, but was still hoping to put it off 6 months at least.

man I wish I could get that much off of a set of tires, I'll be lucky to get 20k out of mine.

 

[rizzjc]

I ran the Firestones bald, and I ran the Wranglers until the steal belts popped through. Neither of then got more than 45k or so. These Mich. LXT's got 70k. I was stunned. They'd go a bit further had the camber not gone out, and wasn't fixable without the kit last time I got it aligned.

 

[rizzjc]

Finally got started tonight. Hopefully make a lot of progress tomorrow, but I'll warn you - I tend to slow down pretty good when I run into a problem, or get frustrated. Goal tonight was to at least get rolling on the project. Removed the covers on the torsion bars, and soaked down the adjuster bolts. Finally, after all these years, I actually UNDERSTAND what "torsion twist" means.

Right side:


Left side.


This is what all four ball joint boots look like. Basically torn open, all the way around.


I couldn't discern any play in the ball joints, but the tie rod appears to have play in it on the driver side. Does not appear to be at the wheel end, but who knows. It's all coming out anyway I guess.

 

[GRNMACHINE]

Thanks for the pics, keep em coming. Now I know what use those horns are for, to hold up the truck via jackstands!

 

[rizzjc]

I hope so. It hasn't fallen yet.

 

[rizzjc]

Well, the weekend project has come to a screeching halt, due to some family stuff I need to tend to out of town. Almost have the torsion bar off one side, but the puller I borrowed keeps flipping sideways, so I'm going to have to figure out something different for that.

 

[CDW6212R]

Get rid of the puller, that is dangerous.

Unbolt everything from the lower control arm, except the ball joints. If you need the lower ball joints loose to work on, do those first. The pressure from the torsion bars will help to break the lower ball joints loose. Use a sledge hammer to hit the spindle on the inside section next to the LBJ, with the nut out 1/8" or so. Once the LBJ lets go you can handle it without a hammer.

Remove the torsion bar adjustment bolts, and the covers there. Place a floor jack under the lower control arm, with it about 18" from the ground. Remove the upper ball joint pinch bolt, and work that ball joint out of the spindle(tap with a hammer etc). Lower the floor jack, and remove the torsion bar by hand, easy.

 

[rizzjc]

Thanks for the pointer Don. I am actually replacing the whole upper and lower control arm. I was going to use the bottle jack on the torsion bar to remove the torsion bar nut, and then release pressure on the torsion bar. Sounds like you're method will work the same way, but on the other end.

 

[ThePhoenix]

looks like moog doesnt make complete lower control arms for my 01 sport either

which of these upper should I go for? 1pc or 2?...and is this part of 2 piece from moog BOTH parts?

MOOG Part # K80068 {Control Arm w/Ball Joint}
Frt Susp; Upper; RH; 1 piece design; Incl. bushings
$111.79

MOOG Part # K8710T {Control Arm w/Ball Joint}
Frt Susp; Upper; RH; Problem Solver; part of 2 piece design arm with ball joint
$91.79

MOOG Part # K8708T {Control Arm w/Ball Joint}
Frt Susp; Upper; LH; Problem Solver; Incl. bushings
$91.79

ARE THESE WITH BALL JOINTS ALREADY PRESSED IN?
JUST BOLT IN AND I AM DONE?



DORMAN Part # 520223 {OE SOLUTIONS; Includes Ball Joint and Bushings #2L2Z 3079-BA, 6L5Z 3079-BA, F77Z 3079-FA, YL2Z 3079-AA}
Front Left Lower $78.79

DORMAN Part # 520224 {OE SOLUTIONS; Includes Ball Joint and Bushings #2L2Z 3078-BA, 6L5Z 3078-BA, F77Z 3078-FA}
Front Right Lower 84.79

MOOG Part # ES3461
Frt Strg; Outer
$23.79

MOOG Part # EV80789
Frt Strg; Inner; Sport
$23.79

MOOG Part # K7275 {Sway Bar Link}
Frt Susp
$13.56

THATS $514 FOR ENTIRE FRONT END, PLUS SHIPPING TAX AND WHAT NOT

 

[techieman33]

yes all of those control arms come withthe ball joints pressed in. As far as the one or two piece upper on the passenger side, the 2 piece gives you more range in your alignment. That being said if your at stock ride height that shouldn't be an issue. So it comes down to the bushings. If you want to keep the 2 piece you could buy new bushings for the upper piece and have a shop use a press to put them in. Or just throw the 1-piece design on there. It's your choice.

 

[rizzjc]

I am sticking with the 2-piece design, but need to get the bushing and replace them. Not sure if I'll have to take it to a shop to do it yet. Hopefully get back to this by the weekend, if not sooner.

 

[ThePhoenix]

another question...to replace the lower control arms, you have to REMOVE the torsion bars?
is this easy to do?

that kind of scares me too....

 

[techieman33]

another question...to replace the lower control arms, you have to REMOVE the torsion bars?
is this easy to do?

that kind of scares me too....

yes you have to remove the torsion bars if you do it as cdw described it's not that scary.

 

[rizzjc]

Yeah, I have one side loose, and it appears most of the tension is off them, but I still need to get it out of there, and then move to the other side. Hopefully get back to it by Saturday, if not tomorrow. Slight detour killed my plans to have this done by now.

 

[CDW6212R]

Do have a service manual when you do the work, the few pictures and descriptions will help to make things clear.

 

[rizzjc]

Yes, I have the Ford manual. The diagrams usually suck. I should pull out my Chilton's guide. I could take better photos with my camera phone, but the photos are probably better than Ford's drawings.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, it's like a puzzle, you need at least half of the pieces to make it manageable. Doing things just from a forum like this can be hard, same for those cheap manuals. Few threads are really thorough and complete. Together it all works well though, and we can fill in the blanks.

 

[ThePhoenix]

i dont like blanks as this our daily driver and only car... so i need to remove the torsion bar...by taking the back end off like the diagram and then tapping the front out...which way does it slide?

 

[rizzjc]

First, you pull the cover off the torsion bar adjusting bolts. There are 4 bolts to remove, and the cover will fall off. Then spray the adjusting bolt with some PB Blaster. Loosen it all the way .... that's where I'm at now. I'll post more after I've done it. I am guessing that it slides back, as it can be removed without removing the lower control arm.