new masster cylinder for uprgraded brakes? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

new masster cylinder for uprgraded brakes?

IMG_0294.jpg
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.











Starters you need to leave the reservoir on when bench bleeding and it looks like a 95 to me.you are bleeding your breaks after installing it also?
 






haha yeah i know. i just took the reservouir off to check the seals. i bled it on the bench, then i bolted it up and pushed the pedal a couple times to confirm there was no bubbles in there, then again when i hooked up the brakelines. do you think there is a problem with the new mc? maybe the plunger was adjusted incorrectly?
 






hey guys sorry for the long delay. been dealing with the brakes issue for awhile now. i bought the 95 mc with no proportioning valve and no cruise control, but when i got it hooked up and bled out, the pedal had no pressure and would go all the way to the floor. i thought it was bc maybe i didnt bleed the air all the way out, so when i took it for an alignment, i asked the mechanic to bench bleed it and hook it back up. but after he did there was still no pressure and the pedal kept hitting the floor. he keeps trying to tell me i need a different mc from a 99, and wont listen to me when i tell him otherwise. im beginning to wonder if the mc that i bought wasnt what it claimed to be. i took some pics of it though, so take a look for me. if you guys have any suggestions, please share, as i dont want to get shafted by mechanic fees.

What do you mean you pumped the breaks?did you physically go to every tire and open the bleeder and pump the break for every tire?if so i think you have other problems.whith the truck off can you pump the break and they get stiff or does it go to the floor everytime?
 






bench bleed, remove hoses and put on caps, bolt in, quickly hook up brake lines one at a time after removing the caps, then bleed brakes like normal.
 






yup, when i bolted it up, i pumped the brakes a few times to make sure there were no bubbles running through the return hoses before i hooked up the brakelines. then i bled the brakes like normal, starting at the back tire and moving forward. i opened the bleeder screw at each caliper and put a tube on, running into a bottle, till there were no bubbles there either. the weird thing is, with the truck off, the pedal gets so stiff that you cant push it in hardly at all, then when i turn it on, it goes straight to the floor no resistance. thats what i had problems with, and what is currently frustrating the mechanic.
 






Your not lossing oil after test drives? Could be a bad abs.you only have rear abs right?
 






im not losing oilany faster than i was before i installed the new mc. ive got a small oil leak but nothing serious. i also tested the brake fluid lines and there are no leaks there either. ive got a 94 xlt, so i only have front abs. when i put in my new front brakes i replaced the front abs sensors. but i also disconnected the battery so it should have had a chance to re learn that aspect. i could get a new module but would that affect how the mc performs?
 






im not losing oilany faster than i was before i installed the new mc. ive got a small oil leak but nothing serious. i also tested the brake fluid lines and there are no leaks there either. ive got a 94 xlt, so i only have front abs. when i put in my new front brakes i replaced the front abs sensors. but i also disconnected the battery so it should have had a chance to re learn that aspect. i could get a new module but would that affect how the mc performs?

No all explorers have rear abs.first gens dont but 94 is a weird year.you a 100% you have front abs? If so that the wrong mc,you need one for a 95 that has a prop valve
 






Post a pic of how you cruise is setup and abs controller.is it under your seat in frame rail or in engine comparment?rom the pic of mc looks like you still have a first gen cruise
 






i would but the ex is still in the shop. it definitely has front abs and rear abs. if for no other reason i could tell when i was stopping the front brakes would pulse depending on how fast i was coming to a stop. im not sure where the abs controller is, but if im able to switch out the mc to one with a proportioning valve, same year, then do you think this problem would be solved?
 






i would but the ex is still in the shop. it definitely has front abs and rear abs. if for no other reason i could tell when i was stopping the front brakes would pulse depending on how fast i was coming to a stop. im not sure where the abs controller is, but if im able to switch out the mc to one with a proportioning valve, same year, then do you think this problem would be solved?

should yes but sounds like you have another problem though,they shouldnt go right to the floor even with the wrong mc.sorry should have asked what year and if you had front abs,didnt even pay attention to it over there just that you was switching out drums for disc.most first gen the abs is under the drivers seat and the prop valve is built into there but that is only for rear abs trucks
 






yeah i dont know what else there would be causing the pedal to go to the floor. ill go and pick up an mc with a proportioning valve and drop it off at the shop before i go to work tomorrow, and see if that makes a difference.
 






yeah i dont know what else there would be causing the pedal to go to the floor. ill go and pick up an mc with a proportioning valve and drop it off at the shop before i go to work tomorrow, and see if that makes a difference.

Yea sorry again that one slide right by me.hopefully it fixes it.
 






94 has front & rear ABS.

If you managed to get air in the ABS pump, it will need to be dumped, purged, and bled. This could be why the pedal only falls to the floor when engine running. Of course, the Master cyl needs to be correct also, so if the new MC doesn't stop the pedal drop, try bleeding the ABS pump.

I know all to well the frustrations of the pedal issue. I ended up eliminating the ABS pump altogether in a problematic vehicle, after many many tries to correct it.

Good luck to you, hope the new MC solves your issue. :)
 






ah ha. i think this may be what happened. if i recall, isnt that a procedure that needs to be done at a shop? it requires vaccuum bleeding, right? getting the new mc tomorrow, a 95 with no cruise control and a proportioning valve. man, those things are way more expensive than the other ones. 75 bucks here in san diego.
 






ah ha. i think this may be what happened. if i recall, isnt that a procedure that needs to be done at a shop? it requires vaccuum bleeding, right? getting the new mc tomorrow, a 95 with no cruise control and a proportioning valve. man, those things are way more expensive than the other ones. 75 bucks here in san diego.

Get a reman one and yea i think you still have air in it or the abs may be bad.its very hard to get all the air out of those units and lines.
 






got it. mechanic said he got the brake system working but the pedal is still really spongy. i think theres definitely air in the HCU. gonna wait till my new mc comes tomorrow and take it someplace where they can put it in and bleed the HCU also. i just really dont feel like bench bleeding another mc my self. i dont suppose there are any tricks to a do it yourself HCU bleed? i know the manual says its impossible, but you guys are full of surprises. also, i had to grind down the tab on the mc to make it fit the brake booster. heres some pics
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.











Back
Top