new masster cylinder for uprgraded brakes?

[cerberusaardvark]

 

[cerberusaardvark]

 

[cerberusaardvark]

 

[jd4242]

got it. mechanic said he got the brake system working but the pedal is still really spongy. i think theres definitely air in the HCU. gonna wait till my new mc comes tomorrow and take it someplace where they can put it in and bleed the HCU also. i just really dont feel like bench bleeding another mc my self. i dont suppose there are any tricks to a do it yourself HCU bleed? i know the manual says its impossible, but you guys are full of surprises. also, i had to grind down the tab on the mc to make it fit the brake booster. heres some pics

I hope he didnt adjust the pushrod to make them stiffer.if so he messed them all up once you get the right mc

 

[gmanpaint]

Found this elsewhere. Print/copy this and ask your mechanic if he can do this or not.

Perform conventional brake system bleed.
Prepare an appropriate method of connecting individual circuits and wires to ground. This connection must be sound, with very low impedance to the battery negative terminal (can use some stainless hat pins and alligator clips on test leads).
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
While an assistant presses down on the brake pedal:
*a. ground circuit 599 [PK/LG], pin 19. (4WABS Relay #1)
b. ground circuit 510 [T/R], pin 27. (Rear Dump)
c. ground circuit 498 [PK], pin 15. (Right Front Dump)
d. ground circuit 496 [O], pin 26. (Left Front Dump)
The pedal will fall to the floor.
Disconnect the ground connections made in parts 4b, 4c, and 4d. *Leave the connection made in part 4a. Allow the brake pedal to return.
Repeat steps 4 and 5 once more.
Ground Circuit 539 [PK/LB], pin 29 for one minute. The ABS pump motor should run for the entire minute.
Perform conventional brake system bleed.

 

[Xeek]

why is it bolted to the truck with the reservoir off? you have no reason to take it off. if thats what youre doing, thats why its not working.

 

[cerberusaardvark]

xeek, it was off so i could look at the seals. it was remanufactured, and i wanted to make sure. it was bolted up and bled out successfully. anyways, i just got it back from the mechanic and yes, i think he adjusted the pushrod. the pedal falls almost to the ground then catches and brakes. tomorrow im getting the new mc, which i will then take to someone to install and printout the above directions for dealing with the abs system and pass that along as well. hopefully that will end this brake problem- but now there are some other curiosities my ex is displaying.

remember, its got the stage 2 james duff lift, ranger pistons and the rear end off a 97 ex with discs. when im driving it, it makes a humming noise that gets higher with speed. it sounds like wind whistling through a cave- maybe bc its higher and i cut down the splash guards inside the fender? lol, its always something! ill throw some pics up after dinner.

 

[cerberusaardvark]

ok the new mc is here- heres how it looks.

 

[cerberusaardvark]

 

[cerberusaardvark]

 

[cerberusaardvark]

 

[cerberusaardvark]

now assuming this is the right mc and didnt get misboxed like the last one, you can see why this would be a problem. ive got a 94 explorer and i dont have a fitting that would screw into that massive hole there on the side. looks like its about an inch wide. is this the wrong mc again, or do i have to plug that or what? also, i assume that the proportioning valve is that bump on the end with the allen screw. anyways, please let me know if you guys have had the same problem. thanks!

 

[jd4242]

Yea that definitely aint going to work.let me search for that thread and see what mc he used with the 94.that other mc should have worked but you wouldnt have had any braking bios

 

[jd4242]

It appears that 1994 to 04-**-1995 uses a different abs unit than 05-**-1995+. Still searching for that thread,little more complicated than originally thought

 

[cerberusaardvark]

lol it always is man.

 

[cerberusaardvark]

the only difference i can see between the 95 mc with no cruise control and no proportioning valve and the mc with only the proportioning valve is that the left side has that huge attachment for the abs system. other than that, the one pictured above is suuuuper beefy compared to the one thats in right now. would that proportioning valve work if that other hole was plugged up? the rear line connection is also on the other side, but it wouldnt be that difficult to bend the line to accomodate that.

 

[cerberusaardvark]

also, if you compare the old 94 mc with the 95 mc with no cc and no p valve, they look almost identical. are the internals different then, in order to send more pressure to the rear brake line? im really hoping to take this back to the guy today and get some good results after they bleed the hcu.

 

[jd4242]

I would stick with the 95 with nothing and bleed the hcu,your just have 50/50 breaking bios.the only difference in first gens and the 95 is the pressure and travel of the piston

 

[cerberusaardvark]

updates: got my car back from the ford dealership...l they bled the hcu and brake system, said they got a lot of air out, and now i have a nice firm brake pedal. however, im not sure if the rear calipers are clamping hard enough. they are squealing loundly and after a four mile trip back to the house, the rear rotors were still cool enough to touch, while the front rotors were radiating heat. the dealership said they also took out the mc and adjusted the plunger back to normal specs... ideas?

 

[jd4242]

updates: got my car back from the ford dealership...l they bled the hcu and brake system, said they got a lot of air out, and now i have a nice firm brake pedal. however, im not sure if the rear calipers are clamping hard enough. they are squealing loundly and after a four mile trip back to the house, the rear rotors were still cool enough to touch, while the front rotors were radiating heat. the dealership said they also took out the mc and adjusted the plunger back to normal specs... ideas?

Why was the plunger out of spec?who adjusted it in the first place?you sure it the rear brakes that are squealing? Where they squealing wile on the brakes or all the time?sounds to me they didnt adjust it right or noone had adjusted it in the first place and they messed it up.sounds to me the front breaks are dragging and squealing not the rear or they would be hot not the front.witch would be cauesed by messing with the plunger