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New member with PO735

-GUS-

Member
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
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City, State
memphis TN
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 ranger
Hi, I have been lurking here for awhile trying to resolve my trucks problem but to no avail. I have a 1999 Ranger with 4.0 and the 5R55E. I can drive for about 5 minutes straight and the OD light flashes with hard shifts aterwards. I can turn the truck off the right back on and it will work perfect for a little bit longer. A little info on the truck, it has 196,x.. miles. I am unsure of maintenance on it by previous owner(I just got it) but I will lean towards neglected. I have replaced the fluid and filter(no junk in pan and fluid was red) with Lube gaurd added. I have also changed the SSC solenoid but same problem.
Sorry for the long first post but I am hoping some of the more educated posters in this area than me will help me out.
 



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When the OD light flashes the computer puts the trans in limp mode which raises the pressure, causing hard shifts. When you turn it off, it resets the computer, until it sees the problem again, it does not remove the stored code. Adjust the bands, if that doesn't help, pull the valve body and check the separator plate gaskets. The OD servo could be bad also.
 






I called myself looking at the edge of the seperator gasket all around the valve body, and found no pieces of it in the pan. I also tried the "drive in first gear and let off the gas" to test for engine stall. That part went like it was supposed to. My thinking is it would be more of an electrical problem since it shifts perfect-then bad(limp home) but immediately upon restart it works correctly again. Would a mechanical part or adjustment problem do that? I would thnk if it was a hard part not an electrical it wouldn't correct itself upon restart. I am I off base with that? BTW thanks for the help!
 












Welcome to this forum! Check the internal wiring harness, and the bulkhead connector on the transmission.
What am I looking for? I noticed no broken wires, and all the connectors seemed solid. Thanks for the welcome:D
 












OK. I will crawl under there tomorrow and see what I see. I will also give adjusting the bands a shot. Thanks guys
 






You have to remove the pan to check the internal wiring.
 






Alright guys I have an update. I adjusted the bands and checked my internal wiring. I saw noting amiss with the electrical part, but I am still having the same problem. What would be my next step? I still want to say it is electrical because I can put the truck in nuetral when it happens and shut it off-restart and it will shift fine for a few more minutes. Always about the same amout of time. I replaced the solenoid directly across the VB from the TCC, that is the SSC correct? That is the one that could be causing my symtoms, right? Thanks for all the help, and I await your thoughts and suggestions.....
 












Got it, will do tonight.
 






OK, just dropped the pan and checked all the wires. I am getting continuity from each pin at the bulkhead to individual spade connectors at the solenoids. I ohmed the solenoids and all are with in specs ... TCC 10.8 ohms, all shifts are 25. ohms, and the EPC is 4.8 ohms. The only thing I saw the might be my problem is the where the plug is on the TCC. I can take my finger and push the solenoid into the VB(like I am installing it) and a little fluid comes out of the back of it where the plastic plug goes into the metal body of the solenoid. I can wiggle that plug just a little as well. Mind you, its not the internal harness plug but the connector on the TCC itself. So whats next guys?
 












As a general rule, the TCC & EPC solenoids are considered high wear components since they are modulated (not on/off devices like the shift solenoids).

Would they cause the symtoms I have though? I don't like throwing parts on, I would like to find the culprit. Is there any way to test them other than ohming? I know they are two part, electrical and mechanical. But if you say I need them, then I will get them. I just dnt want to start throwing parts at it and hope I hit it.
 






There is a way to test them with a special scan tool which is capable of modulating them in steps. It sounds like your solenoid has an internal leak since fluid shouldn't come out from the connector. Considering the high mileage, I'm sure that those solenoids have considerable wear if they are original.
 






There is a way to test them with a special scan tool which is capable of modulating them in steps. It sounds like your solenoid has an internal leak since fluid shouldn't come out from the connector. Considering the high mileage, I'm sure that those solenoids have considerable wear if they are original.

Good enough for me. I will look into getting some, and posting the results. BTW, what is the valve body torque specs? I had to loosen some bolt to remove the solenoids. Is there a place you recommend getting the solenoids?
 






Check the links in # 67 in my list of useful threads for the torque specs, and the bolt pattern sequence. WWW.TransmissionPartsUSA.Com & WWW.800700Tran.Com sell them. The second place has them for a lower price, but some members have complained about them for various reasons. The first place is an excellent source for parts with good prices.
 






Thank you very very much
 






update... I put the new solenoids on and so far it seems to have fixed my problem. While I was at it I retorqued the VB bolts. I would like to thank all who replyed and a special thanks to Brooklynbay.
 



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