New motor install - cross threaded driver side motor mount | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

New motor install - cross threaded driver side motor mount

08EddieCA

Well-Known Member
Joined
March 31, 2016
Messages
418
Reaction score
83
Location
CA
City, State
Los Angeles, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
08 & 03 X (Eddie B & XLS)
My buddy and I installed a new motor into my 08 Eddie Bauer 4x4. He told me that he had trouble with the driver side motor mount horizontal screw. What I've since learned due to a LOT of resonance in the cabin is that he cross threaded that horizontal screw/bolt. I tried to get this screw to turn with no luck. My local shop tried to turn this bolt with no luck either.

I know I will have to drop the front differential to get the mount replaced and it's a ton of work - hands are still sore from installing the engine...

If I mig weld this mount at the area where the screw/bolt enters and exits the mount, will I at least take care of the resonance that I'm currently experiencing? The front end has been redone - ball joints, A-arms, suspension, etc. No resonance with the prior engine before it died.

Any suggestions? Extremely thankful.
78861-f6a7ac55fc29579b01ea4bc89a6cadc3.jpg
78860-d0ed71727a8a8a8c8d9dd67fcf507805.jpg
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I think Gramps just came up with a solution. Sawzall the welded nut with the cross threaded bolt stuck inside. Then push through a high grade bolt and nut and - washers, if needed. I'll check back after I get at this tomorrow.
 






That's what I was going to say...just cut off the nut and change the bolt and use a new (nyloc) nut.
 






Make sure it's the correct grade.

Should be like 10.9

Hard Stuff.

Take your time cutting the old one with lots of cutting fluid so you don't burn your blades up.

No "Home Depot" bolts allowed on that application.
 






Forgot about the grade of bolt needed. I'm sure the pitch is 1.5. Any idea on how many mm long I should buy? Not sure if HD has that grade. I'll have to find a fastener shop.
 






LOL Home Depot and other hardware seem to carry zero grade white metal bolts including lag bolts. I twisted the heads off lag bolts a few years ago tightening them on a project. PIA working around that and finding better steel bolts. Measure the length but a Ford Dealer may have or can order the bolt for you.

Watch your cutting angle since the saw blade goes in/out you don't want it wrecking something else or cutting at it in the path. Its hard to see if you'd have room but an angle grind (4.5" type could cut it) But you have to be very careful the cutting wheel don't hit something else.
 






Tractor supply carries up to grade 8 bolts and associated hardware
 






When I was doing my v8 repacement, I also changed my mounts. Yes, the driver side is blocked by the differential, but it's not that bad after all. Disconnect the stabilizer end links, remove the 4 15 mm bolts holding the stabilizer itself to the frame and remove it. The front differential is held by three 15 or 19 mm bolts I believe and it can be dropped down enough with the cv shafts in it. Maybe 30 min total. Auzone carries 8.8, 9.8 and 10.8 bolts I believe. Same with HD, they have some metric staff as well.
 






I had wished I had done the same when my engine was out.

Today I had success with the sawzall. Since the bolt was only partly cross threaded and was still long enough that I was able to reuse the 10.9 bolt. I was able to buy a grade 8.8 nut and replace and secure the bolt. A little whooped from the sawzall.

Going on a short road trip with the family tomorrow so I really wanted to get it done today.
 






As long as you have (2) full threads showing out of the Nyloc nut you should be goo to go.

Hind sight is always 20 \ 20 but you might have been able to back the nut off, pull the bolt out and reclaim the damaged threads with a thread file of a metric die nut as a chase then replace just the nut.
 






The mount at full rest kinda locks in there, the bolt goes in just to pinch the mount in. As long as that bolt stays in there it will be just fine. You want it as tight as possible though so your not chasing down a crazy squeek down the road.
 






I was able to bring the bolt flush with the end of the nut but not any further. Before I used the sawzall I tried to back it out and it wasn't moving at all. Dealer won't sell just the bolt and nut outside of buying the new mount kit. If this setup fails I'm going to follow Explorer_PL and lower the diff and replace the entire mount. The diff has issues too but that's for another day, lol. Thank you for the help - most appreciated.

I will be listening for that squeek!!!!
 






NP.

Enjoy your weekend!
 






Back
Top