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new reman 4.0L engine


arthur gordon

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I am purchasing a reman engine for an 06 4WD EB 4.0L. My first question is how should I break in this new engine? When and how often should change the oil, the first few oil changes? Should I use conventional or synthetic oil?
 


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Mbrooks420

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It’s probably already been ran. Don’t put it under a lot of load for extended periods of time. Do a short oil change 1500-2000 miles, then switch to a 4-5000 mile oil change. Don’t push them too far with the SOHC. I’d only run synthetics.
 




Rcflyer330

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Everybody has there own way to break in an engine. I would contact the manufacture of the engine (there will be a warrenty and not following their break in instructions may void it) if they dont have instructions then follow the break in procedure in your owners manual. They basicly say to change the oil early and no extended freeway speeds.
 




donalds

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Never put synthetic oil in a new engine or your rings will never seat properly and you will burn oil
I'd wait till 3k to run synthetic
Use non synthetic change at 500 miles and every 3k after that
This engine is super dependent on oil change intervals
 




Mbrooks420

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Dollars to donuts the engine has already been “Dyno” ran and had the rings sufficiently seated.

Before the 500 mile mark the time to seat rings is long gone.
 




donalds

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I'm just saying what the break in instructions from my remain said
I followed their book to the letter and even posted a thread about it

In this case there is a lot of ways to skin this cat
 




arthur gordon

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Thank all of you for your inputs on the best methods of breaking in a new engine.
 




imp

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Never put synthetic oil in a new engine or your rings will never seat properly and you will burn oil
I'd wait till 3k to run synthetic
Use non synthetic change at 500 miles and every 3k after that
This engine is super dependent on oil change intervals
I have a story. Ordered 65 Mustang brand new, Aug, 1964. 5 weeks delivery, ordered High Performance Package, 289-271 HP, solid lifters, forged pistons, up-graded rings. Ran with Texaco Havoline 10W-30 for quite a long time, then Mobil 1 Synthetic came out, so I tried it. Car had crossed entire U.S. several times by then, even with 3.89 gears, engine "singing" on new interstates, never used measurable amount of oil between 3000 mile changes. Lo and behold, after 1000 miles on Mobil 1, it was down A QUART! Dumped it, returned to Havoline, ran as before.

Never tried the shit again! To boot, back then, it cost at least 10 times as much as good old Texas Naphthenic base Havoline. Pennsylvania crude, called "paraffinic", and touted as THE BEST, is in my m ind of lesser value from a lubricity standpoint than naphthenic. Naphtha is, of course, Benzine, which greatly resembles gasoline, and is derived from the crude. We all know Paraffin is WAX.

I have never used any Penn. based motor oil, the great quality notwithstanding. No doubt, today's synthetics are greatly improved; I am still an old die-hard S.O.B. Got that way learning harsh lessons of reality!

imp
 




Blackhawkxx

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I have a story. Ordered 65 Mustang brand new, Aug, 1964. 5 weeks delivery, ordered High Performance Package, 289-271 HP, solid lifters, forged pistons, up-graded rings. Ran with Texaco Havoline 10W-30 for quite a long time, then Mobil 1 Synthetic came out, so I tried it. Car had crossed entire U.S. several times by then, even with 3.89 gears, engine "singing" on new interstates, never used measurable amount of oil between 3000 mile changes. Lo and behold, after 1000 miles on Mobil 1, it was down A QUART! Dumped it, returned to Havoline, ran as before.

Never tried the shit again! To boot, back then, it cost at least 10 times as much as good old Texas Naphthenic base Havoline. Pennsylvania crude, called "paraffinic", and touted as THE BEST, is in my m ind of lesser value from a lubricity standpoint than naphthenic. Naphtha is, of course, Benzine, which greatly resembles gasoline, and is derived from the crude. We all know Paraffin is WAX.

I have never used any Penn. based motor oil, the great quality notwithstanding. No doubt, today's synthetics are greatly improved; I am still an old die-hard S.O.B. Got that way learning harsh lessons of reality!

imp
While not the same thing, I replaced the regular transmission oil in my old nonleaking four speed manual trans Mustang with synthetic and it leaked.
 




94Eddie

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While not the same thing, I replaced the regular transmission oil in my old nonleaking four speed manual trans Mustang with synthetic and it leaked.
My rule when it comes to transmission fluid is follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
 








imp

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While not the same thing, I replaced the regular transmission oil in my old nonleaking four speed manual trans Mustang with synthetic and it leaked.
The seal engineers would tell you the "cleaning agents" contained in the synthetic loosened deposits on/around the seal lip which were preventing leakage (assuming it was a seal, and not a gasket). This I've always doubted, but WTH, sometimes magic is involved.
 




imp

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I agree, this was many years ago pre-internet.
Late '50s, I took a drastic chance by trying ATF in my 3-speed overdrive transmission. Recommended was GEAR OIL. Shifted smoother, worked well. I questioned the much-touted claim that gear lube had ability to withstand higher pressures than m ost other lubricants. Pressure depends on area of gear teeth in contact and force involved. Thought about how tiny automatic transmission planetary gears are, and they survive with thin ATF........rarely a gear failure.........
 




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