New shock/strut assembly question

[shane10]

You might ask if they will cross ship the new part so you will get it faster.

I am a bit past the point where I could do both sides in one afternoon so I did mine about a week apart. As long as the stock strut is not broken, it shouldn't be a huge deal to have one new and one old. I wouldn't drive to Alaska or anything like that, but mine was ****eyed from a broken spring for quite a while, so I figured the new strut was an improvement even if it wasn't exactly the same.

It's too bad you got a bad part. Buying quality dramatically reduces the chances that you get a lemon, but nothing will completely remove that possibility. It is the same thing in may other fields as well as with auto parts. All you can do is to check out the retailer to make sure they don't have frequent problems and then you just roll the dice like everyone else. This is one reason why customer support is so important. Everyone screws up now and again. How it gets handled when that happens is as important to me as their pricing.

LMHmedchem

I took the strut into my mechanic to have a look at it, he was able to use a spring compressor and rotate the upper shock mount 180 degrees, which after 10 messages I finally got KYB to tell me was possible. I have both front UCA's and struts replaced now, just need to put the wheels back on and torque everything down.
I'm still a bit worried about not being able to loosen the nuts on the side of the UCA (bushings) when I installed it. As I said, once the drivers side UCA was in I was able to use a heavy wrench and pipe to loosen them up, but once they were loosened nothing happened i.e. no swivel in the bar.
I tried loosening them up off the car, with my brother putting all his weight on it, no dice. I guess i'll see how it rides once I get the tires back on, and let the mechanic know when I get the alignment.
Quick test drive and if alls good onto the rears! Thanks for everybody's help couldn't have done it without ya!

 

[Number4]

You have no reason to loosen the nuts on the bushings for the upper control arm. Doing so might actually void warranty. The type of not used should be a crush not and is not meant to be reused wants tighten down and loosened.

 

[LMHmedchem]

I took the strut into my mechanic to have a look at it, he was able to use a spring compressor and rotate the upper shock mount 180 degrees.

I was going to suggest that, but you got to it first. This isn't something you would want to try yourself if you had never used a compressor before, but it was a great idea to get your mechanic to do it. It's really nice to have a mechanic who will work with you when you are doing your own repairs. That can be an invaluable safety net in a number of situations.

Now you get to tackle the back.

LMHmedchem

 

[shane10]

I was going to suggest that, but you got to it first. This isn't something you would want to try yourself if you had never used a compressor before, but it was a great idea to get your mechanic to do it. It's really nice to have a mechanic who will work with you when you are doing your own repairs. That can be an invaluable safety net in a number of situations.

Now you get to tackle the back.

LMHmedchem

Indeed, I didn't want to mess around with a compressor, and I haven't been to this particular mechanic in years, just a small two man shop in a city filled with countless auto chain stores. He messed around with it for 10-15 minutes, finally got it to budge, I slipped him a $20 and I was on my way.
Hopefully the rears will be less tackling and more gently caressing, haha, I will leave those for tomorrow though I've had enough for now.
Thanks again for sticking with me on this, hopefully I won't need to come back for the rears

 

[shane10]

You have no reason to loosen the nuts on the bushings for the upper control arm. Doing so might actually void warranty. The type of not used should be a crush not and is not meant to be reused wants tighten down and loosened.

Odd, both videos I saw they had the side bolts loosened up, and once it was installed they jacked the suspension up and then tightened them, i'll take your word for it though, went for a test drive and all seems well. Still gonna ask about it when I go in for an alignment
I could believe it though, those things were really on there tight, as I said couldn't even get them to budge

 

[Number4]

The nuts are meant to be locked in place, once. The bushing then pivots against the large washer. If you loosen the nuts, you break their holding strength and will then require loctite to prevent them from backing off. Keep in mind, the arm pivots up and down constantly.

To put them on, as I recall, you put the studs in first, then use a long screw driver as leverage to make the arm pivot. I've done 3 sets so far, they are a 20 minute job, with tools at the ready......and not being up north.

I actually use the red handled tool...

 

[BarryCarey]

......and not being up north.

Can confirm, would rather stab myself in the foot than do them again without a shop and air tools.

 

[TechGuru]

KYB just gave me a response. It was clocked in wrong as assembly... @%#$!!!
So I have to return and wait for a new one, great. Next question, should I just go ahead and replace the stock strut on the passenger side? Or should I replace both stock struts for an even ride.

You should be able to turn it, might need a spring compressor though.

I could turn factories without compressing them.

 

[drdoom]

I'm with TechGuru, I've turned them before also.

 

[shane10]

You should be able to turn it, might need a spring compressor though.

I could turn factories without compressing them.

#81 I took it to a local mechanic yesterday and he was able to compress the spring and turn the top mount 180, would have been impossible without the compressor.
Thanks

 

[LMHmedchem]

#81 I took it to a local mechanic yesterday and he was able to compress the spring and turn the top mount 180, would have been impossible without the compressor.
Thanks

Out of interest, do you know if he had to loosen the top nut after compressing the spring? It would be nice to have a better idea of the procedure for this.

LMHmedchem

 

[shane10]

Out of interest, do you know if he had to loosen the top nut after compressing the spring? It would be nice to have a better idea of the procedure for this.

LMHmedchem

Nope, nothing was loosened, he compressed the spring near the top of the strut, and used a belt tool (not sure on the technical term) around the strut mount just to get some grip, and simply turned it. He let me watch and it didn't look like he had too much trouble to get it to turn.
He also stated he's never had to do that before, which makes sense because mine was clocked in backwards, which it shouldn't have been.

 

[shane10]

Might have to invest in a sawzall/angle grinder...
All 3 top bolts on both rears won't budge, compared to the fronts which took no effort at all. Used the two wrench trick, no dice, put all my force behind it.
Sprayed it a few times with PB i'll let it sit for another hour and try again.
If I do have to cut them off no idea how i'll get the rear bolt. I have a small dremel I could probably fit back there but I would still be cutting blindly

 

[LMHmedchem]

Might have to invest in a sawzall/angle grinder...
All 3 top bolts on both rears won't budge, compared to the fronts which took no effort at all. Used the two wrench trick, no dice, put all my force behind it.
Sprayed it a few times with PB i'll let it sit for another hour and try again.
If I do have to cut them off no idea how i'll get the rear bolt. I have a small dremel I could probably fit back there but I would still be cutting blindly

If the wrench will bite, you should be able to get them loose with the two wrenches. I used half a can of PB per side the day before. Spray it on, let it sit for a few minutes, spray again, etc. Let it sit overnight and they spray again the next day and let it sit for an hour before you try to loosen the nuts.

If you have a dremel, angle grinder, or oscillating tool with a metal cutting blade, I think that would be easier. You can sometimes get a socket on the rear nut because there is better head room there. It's a tight spot to work in and no mistake. I think that engineers who design automobiles should be sentenced to do nothing by change out old rusty parts 24 hours a day and then see if that changes the way these things are configured.

Did you try your earlier idea of the nut splitter?

LMHmedchem

 

[shane10]

If the wrench will bite, you should be able to get them loose with the two wrenches. I used half a can of PB per side the day before. Spray it on, let it sit for a few minutes, spray again, etc. Let it sit overnight and they spray again the next day and let it sit for an hour before you try to loosen the nuts.

If you have a dremel, angle grinder, or oscillating tool with a metal cutting blade, I think that would be easier. You can sometimes get a socket on the rear nut because there is better head room there. It's a tight spot to work in and no mistake. I think that engineers who design automobiles should be sentenced to do nothing by change out old rusty parts 24 hours a day and then see if that changes the way these things are configured.

Did you try your earlier idea of the nut splitter?

LMHmedchem

Sprayed it two days ago yesterday and about 5 times today haha. It's like these things are torqued at 100 ft/lb, like I said no trouble with the front. I'm going out for another try in a minute. I don't think I have a 13mm deep socket so no use there.
I haven't tried the nut splitter, and actually don't have one, it is definitely a tight fit, but I think if I buy a smaller model I could maybe get it to work. I'm going to give it another try with the wrench before I start cutting anything up. And if it come to that make sure everything else is loosened up first

 

[LMHmedchem]

You can add a third wrench to the two wrench thing. It's not as easy because the end you are adding on to is in the wrong direction, but it is possible. Other than that, you can look for an extender pipe that is big enough to fit over the end of the wrench. As long as the wrench will bite, it is just a matter of creating enough torque to break the rust and get it going. You could snap off the drive shaft with a long enough pipe, it's just a matter of leverage.

Since you have a dremel, I would try that before I go and buy anything, unless you are just looking for an excuse to buy a grinder. It will take a while and you will go through several cutoff wheels, but it should work. Like you said, just make sure that everything else will come off before you start cutting. If you can get a light on the back nut, a small mirror can help you see what is going on ...sort of

LMHmedchem

 

[shane10]

You can add a third wrench to the two wrench thing. It's not as easy because the end you are adding on to is in the wrong direction, but it is possible. Other than that, you can look for an extender pipe that is big enough to fit over the end of the wrench. As long as the wrench will bite, it is just a matter of creating enough torque to break the rust and get it going. You could snap off the drive shaft with a long enough pipe, it's just a matter of leverage.

Since you have a dremel, I would try that before I go and buy anything, unless you are just looking for an excuse to buy a grinder. It will take a while and you will go through several cutoff wheels, but it should work. Like you said, just make sure that everything else will come off before you start cutting. If you can get a light on the back nut, a small mirror can help you see what is going on ...sort of

LMHmedchem

Got 2 of 3 drivers side nuts loose, third one is stripped to ****. All 3 passenger side are stripped/rounded after trying to loosen to the point of the 1/2 wrench not even biting anymore.
I went ahead and grabbed a nut splitter, which does fit back there, but due to them being flange nuts, I'll only be able to cut through the meaty part of the nut, and have to finish off with the dremel, at least it will make the job easier.
EDIT: Dremel is battery operated, useful battery life is about 10 minutes, charge time is about 2-3 hours :thumbdwn:
Think i'm going to need another plan for the passenger side, no way i'm cutting through 3 bolts with that thing

 

[LMHmedchem]

If you have a nut splitter, you may think about just using your dremel to cut through the flange. I think you would need to cut the flange first anyway to have any change of a splitter working. If you cut the flange and score the nut with the dremel to give a place for the splitter to seat. It may work, it's hard to say. You wouldn't be using your dremel for that long that way.

For the front two nuts, you could use a sawzall. You can probably rent one pretty cheep. You would need a new blade for each bolt. I don't see any way to get to the rear bolt with a saw. You could try a deep bolt extractor socket on the rear. You often can get a socket in there and a bolt extractor won't care that the nut is rounded off.

You can probably rent a grinder as well. Just be very careful with it if you have never used one in a case like this. Grinders are likely the most dangerous tool in the shop.

LMHmedchem

 

[shane10]

If you have a nut splitter, you may think about just using your dremel to cut through the flange. I think you would need to cut the flange first anyway to have any change of a splitter working. If you cut the flange and score the nut with the dremel to give a place for the splitter to seat. It may work, it's hard to say. You wouldn't be using your dremel for that long that way.

For the front two nuts, you could use a sawzall. You can probably rent one pretty cheep. You would need a new blade for each bolt. I don't see any way to get to the rear bolt with a saw. You could try a deep bolt extractor socket on the rear. You often can get a socket in there and a bolt extractor won't care that the nut is rounded off.

You can probably rent a grinder as well. Just be very careful with it if you have never used one in a case like this. Grinders are likely the most dangerous tool in the shop.

LMHmedchem

Good idea on dremel then nut splitter, I did the opposite on one bolt and kind of made a mess of things, almost there though.

If I went with the grinder route, would I just cut the entire nut/bolt clean off at the bottom? Extractor sockets not a bad idea, though i've never had much luck with them, and nowhere around me sells deep sockets.
I have a buddy who works at his uncles shop just down the road from me, I've never gone there, and don't know why, but I might just give him a call tomorrow and have him either do it there for me or let me use his tools/space.
Come to think of it that's probably what i'll do, it's been a couple years, would be nice to catch up, relax, and

 

[shane10]

After struggling for another hour with the last 3 bolts, I finally brought it into a local shop. He torched the nuts off, and we had the new shock in within 15-20 minutes. Even offered me a job for some extra help (just him in the shop)
Got the alignment done, car is riding great. A bit stiffer than I prefer, but handling and all around feel is much better.
Thanks for all the help!