New shock/strut assembly question

[shane10]

The main issue is going to be getting the old struts off. I would try box ratchets on the top nuts on the rear and make sure that you can get some purchase on the nuts. You may have to go down one or two sizes on your wrench if there is significant rust. I had one that was completely rounded off with rust. There is no room in there for an extractor socket (maybe the back one) so you want to have a plan before you start. It helps to use PB the day before and the day of. I would make sure you can at least loosen all of the nuts, including the shock absorber bolt and wheel knuckle bolt before starting in. You can cut the top bolts off with a grinder or air hammer but access is very tight. The fronts are not so bad because you can access the bolts from under the hood. I always try to get everything loosened up at least a little before I decide if I am going to go for it or not. That's also a good time to check to make sure you have all of the sockets, box wrenches and box ratchets you need.

LMHmedchem

Would a nut splitter be a viable tool to get the top nuts off? Assuming theres enough room, it seems like there would be. I don't have access to many good power tools.
Thanks

 

[TechGuru]

Would a nut splitter be a viable tool to get the top nuts off? Assuming theres enough room, it seems like there would be. I don't have access to many good power tools.
Thanks

I had no problem getting the rear top nuts off with a simple 13mm chinese walmart wrench (I didn't have a snap-on that size, lol) and I was even able to reuse them! I did spray them with WD40 the day before. A ratcheting wrench would be faster as it is a very long process.

 

[LMHmedchem]

A ratcheting wrench would be faster as it is a very long process.

You can say that again!!!

The nuts should be 13mm. I used a combination of 13mm box wrench, 1/2 box wrench, 13mm box ratchet, and 1/2 box ratchet, all on the star end. Several of the nuts were rusted down enough that the 13mm would not catch and I needed the 1/2". One nut needed the 12mm. If you live in a place where there is allot of road salt, you need to prepare for that. I put quite a bit of PB blaster on the day before and then again 1 hour before and that helped allot. You may also need to hook two box wrenches together to get enough leverage to get the nuts started.

Check out this video at time 1:28 to see what I mean,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SD03cwcDkug

There really is no room for any kind of ratchet for the front two nuts. You can sometimes get a ratchet on the back nut. I suggested cutting off the bolts because I think that would be much faster if you have the tools. A Dremel may work, but you would go through allot of cutoff wheels. It also helps to have a good light to see the back bolt.

As TechGuru suggested, the bolts are long and if you can get the nut started, it still takes dozens of turns to get a nut off with a box wrench. If you have to go this route, make sure you have a decent pair of gloves or you will wreck your hands trying to grip and turn the wrench.

Use the PB liberally and give it time to work. I had one side where the nuts were rusted down so much, they had lost all of their hexagonal shape and it took an air chisel to cut them off. That is a good option if you have a good compressor and the proper air tools. Baring that, a cutoff wheel on a grinder or a sawzall are the next best options. Expect to use a blade per bolt with the sawzall, and you won't be able to get to the rear bolt with a saw.

If you can get a nut splitter in there, it would be worth a try, thought I have never done that myself. Again, with the back nut, I'm not sure how you would operate the splitter back in there. A torch is another good option for loosening frozen hardware, but that is something you would need to be careful with if you are not familiar with the practice. You are right near the gas tank in that location and the PB you spray on is flammable to some extent.

LMHmedchem

 

[drdoom]

+1 medchem, I read a thread here before I put my Rancho Quick Lift in, and went and bought a 13mm ratchet wrench before I started. Very worthwhile.

 

[Sweersa]

Thank you all for the helpful tips and information.

My 2005 XLT 4x4 4.0 V6 has just under 190,000 miles. I have put about 23,000 miles on it since buying it in late August of 2014.

My front shocks make some noise when going over bumps, and my left spring is cracked. Other than that, they feel decent and handle okay, no noticeable sagging. But I'm still going to replace them all. I don't know when or if they were ever replaced. I like the reviews and prices on the Monroe strut/spring assemblies. Rockauto has nice prices, and 5% off, plus Monroe has a decent rebate going on for a few more months.

I'll also get an alignment done after the job, it could use one now, but it makes more sense for me to do it after I replace all 4 of these suspension components. I'll probably have to buy some big sockets too for the job.

 

[LMHmedchem]

Thank you all for the helpful tips and information.

My 2005 XLT 4x4 4.0 V6 has just under 190,000 miles. I have put about 23,000 miles on it since buying it in late August of 2014.

My front shocks make some noise when going over bumps, and my left spring is cracked. Other than that, they feel decent and handle okay, no noticeable sagging. But I'm still going to replace them all. I don't know when or if they were ever replaced. I like the reviews and prices on the Monroe strut/spring assemblies. Rockauto has nice prices, and 5% off, plus Monroe has a decent rebate going on for a few more months.

I'll also get an alignment done after the job, it could use one now, but it makes more sense for me to do it after I replace all 4 of these suspension components. I'll probably have to buy some big sockets too for the job.

I know that folks like to replace all of the struts at once but I think you could just do the fronts if that is the only place you have damage. The rear springs are prone to breaking, so I don't see any reason to not do all 4 if they are original on a truck with 200,000 miles, but if you wanted to wait, I think that would be fine. It might sit a bit differently, but if you don't off-road or anything like that I don't see the harm. I drove my gen1 with replaced rear shocks and original fronts for quite a long time and never noticed any issues. One of the rears had blown out and was completely flat so I did both the rears and never did do the front.

Some of the tools you need are the following,
13mm box wrench (loosen top nuts)
13mm box ratchet (remove top nuts after loose)
1/2" box wrench (loosen top nuts if rusted down)
1/2" box ratchet (remove rusted down top nuts after loose)
14mm box wrench (loosen nut from top of sway bar link)
14mm box ratchet (remove nut from top of sway bar link)
21mm box wrench (hold wheel knuckle nut when loosening bolt)
I believe that the shock absorber bolt is 22mm so you will need a 22mm socket, breaker bar, and extender pipe for that.
I don't remember the size of the wheel knuckle bolt.
I don't remember of the size of the swaybar link bolt that you access from the bottom of the LCA but you need a deep socket for that.

It seems I used an 18mm socket for something but I don't remember. It may have been the wheel knuckle bolt. I split my 18mm socket on something on one side and I think that was it. I will try to check on the sizes tomorrow and post back. I don't remember how much of this is the same for the front. Maybe someone else can report.

LMHmedchem

 

[shane10]

Thank you all for the helpful tips and information.

My 2005 XLT 4x4 4.0 V6 has just under 190,000 miles. I have put about 23,000 miles on it since buying it in late August of 2014.

My front shocks make some noise when going over bumps, and my left spring is cracked. Other than that, they feel decent and handle okay, no noticeable sagging. But I'm still going to replace them all. I don't know when or if they were ever replaced. I like the reviews and prices on the Monroe strut/spring assemblies. Rockauto has nice prices, and 5% off, plus Monroe has a decent rebate going on for a few more months.

I'll also get an alignment done after the job, it could use one now, but it makes more sense for me to do it after I replace all 4 of these suspension components. I'll probably have to buy some big sockets too for the job.

I just ordered KYB strut plus on all four, should be here by tuesday next week at the latest, hopefully, the rears haven't even been labeled yet.. Also got a new floor jack, to have the rubber oil fill plug split and cause a leak on my first air purge
Anyhow I'll let you know how they ride compared to stock, i'm at 158,000, no broken springs or anything like you. Monroes were quite a bit cheaper, especially with that tasty rebate, but I was able to find KYB rears for $92 a piece, just shop around.

 

[apenland01]

The biggest thing you'll notice is that you don't bounce your way down a bumpy road anymore, you don't lean when you turn a corner and you'll swear your brakes are twice as good as they were before you put the new coilover struts in. I put the KYB's on about a year ago and they have been fantastic in my opinion.

 

[shane10]

The biggest thing you'll notice is that you don't bounce your way down a bumpy road anymore, you don't lean when you turn a corner and you'll swear your brakes are twice as good as they were before you put the new coilover struts in. I put the KYB's on about a year ago and they have been fantastic in my opinion.

GREAT to hear, I get such mixed reviews on both KYB and Monroe it's nice to hear the people who have nothing but positive to say about KYB. Brakes will stop on a dime then, new brakes and rotors coming as well

 

[Sweersa]

LMHmedchem, thanks for the tools recommendations. I'll hit up my local Sears for what I'm missing before the job.

I just ordered KYB strut plus on all four, should be here by tuesday next week at the latest, hopefully, the rears haven't even been labeled yet.. Also got a new floor jack, to have the rubber oil fill plug split and cause a leak on my first air purge
Anyhow I'll let you know how they ride compared to stock, i'm at 158,000, no broken springs or anything like you. Monroes were quite a bit cheaper, especially with that tasty rebate, but I was able to find KYB rears for $92 a piece, just shop around.

Thank you, I'm really interested to hear how you like the KYBs. I'll go for those if you like them.

 

[LMHmedchem]

LMHmedchem, thanks for the tools recommendations. I'll hit up my local Sears for what I'm missing before the job.

Thank you, I'm really interested to hear how you like the KYBs. I'll go for those if you like them.

If I haven't said this ad-nauseam already, make sure you can get everything loose and started before you dive in to the whole job. There is nothing worse then spending an hour getting some bolts off, only to discover there is another one somewhere that you can't move at all. Now you have to figure out how to get the old rusty crap back on so you can drive until you figure out what to do next. Since you live in an area where there is allot of road salt, the rust can be bad. Put allot of PB on all the nuts and bolts the day before you are going to do the job, then do it again an hour before. Give it time to work.

The job is really not that bad at all if you can get the old stuff off. If you can't, it may be Miller time early and often. Hint, throwing multiple empty beer bottles at your truck won't help get the bolts off. Believe me, it's been tried.

It is, however, entirely possible that you will feel quite a bit better about the whole thing, at least until your wife makes you clean up all the glass. :bdrunk:

LMHmedchem

 

[Number4]

Don't recall if it was mentioned, but the rear shocks have a frame bumper (which makes no sense) that blocks one top nut per rear shock. Some have successfully turned the nut a turn or two to then be able to slide the bumper off. I had to use a tiny hacksaw to butcher these bumpers until I had access to the nut. Then tossed them.

 

[LMHmedchem]

Don't recall if it was mentioned, but the rear shocks have a frame bumper (which makes no sense) that blocks one top nut per rear shock. Some have successfully turned the nut a turn or two to then be able to slide the bumper off. I had to use a tiny hacksaw to butcher these bumpers until I had access to the nut. Then tossed them.

I didn't have to remove the bumper in my case (2002 XLT v8). I removed it after I took the old strut off and actually put it back on the new strut. You can't even see the bolt in the rear, so I had to remove it by feel. I did have enough access to get my hands in there and operate the wrench. I don't know if my access would have been better if I tried to remove the rubber bumper first, I never thought about it. If you remove the front two nuts, you should be able to slide the bumper off of the bolts. I guess it would make sense to do that first as you may have better access and vision for the rear bolt.

Maybe your design is different? What exactly do you mean by, "blocks one top nut per rear shock"? Is it the back nut that is blocked or one of the front nuts? Are you not at all able to get a wrench on the "blocked" nut, or is it just very awkward and annoying?

LMHmedchem

 

[Number4]

In this case, both you and the OP have 2002 models. Your bumpers (shock mount to frame, not front and rear of car bumpers) are different. They changed them in either '03 or '04. I actually picked up a set of an '02 at the wrecking yard, but never got around to installing it. The '02's are not an issue to remove.

 

[shane10]

So all my parts have arrived in the mail besides the front brake pads.
I'll be installing all shocks and front UCA's tomorrow, got everything sprayed down with PB blaster and made sure all nuts and bolt could be loosened. No problems so far! Sweersa i'll keep you updated on the first drive and after a few hundred miles once everything's settled.
Speaking about springs settling, should I wait for this before I get an alignment? I've been doing some searching, and as always every other post says something different. But the general consensus is wait 100 miles for the springs to settle then align? It seems logical, and I assume 100 miles isn't enough to chew through a tire if it's out of spec

 

[shane10]

You can say that again!!!

The nuts should be 13mm. I used a combination of 13mm box wrench, 1/2 box wrench, 13mm box ratchet, and 1/2 box ratchet, all on the star end. Several of the nuts were rusted down enough that the 13mm would not catch and I needed the 1/2". One nut needed the 12mm. If you live in a place where there is allot of road salt, you need to prepare for that. I put quite a bit of PB blaster on the day before and then again 1 hour before and that helped allot. You may also need to hook two box wrenches together to get enough leverage to get the nuts started.

Check out this video at time 1:28 to see what I mean,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SD03cwcDkug

There really is no room for any kind of ratchet for the front two nuts. You can sometimes get a ratchet on the back nut. I suggested cutting off the bolts because I think that would be much faster if you have the tools. A Dremel may work, but you would go through allot of cutoff wheels. It also helps to have a good light to see the back bolt.

As TechGuru suggested, the bolts are long and if you can get the nut started, it still takes dozens of turns to get a nut off with a box wrench. If you have to go this route, make sure you have a decent pair of gloves or you will wreck your hands trying to grip and turn the wrench.

Use the PB liberally and give it time to work. I had one side where the nuts were rusted down so much, they had lost all of their hexagonal shape and it took an air chisel to cut them off. That is a good option if you have a good compressor and the proper air tools. Baring that, a cutoff wheel on a grinder or a sawzall are the next best options. Expect to use a blade per bolt with the sawzall, and you won't be able to get to the rear bolt with a saw.

If you can get a nut splitter in there, it would be worth a try, thought I have never done that myself. Again, with the back nut, I'm not sure how you would operate the splitter back in there. A torch is another good option for loosening frozen hardware, but that is something you would need to be careful with if you are not familiar with the practice. You are right near the gas tank in that location and the PB you spray on is flammable to some extent.

LMHmedchem

NEW PROBLEM!! I have both the front shock/struts out, no problems with that. But now the bottom of the strut won't line up with bolt!
On one of the struts, it seems just slightly off and is resisting when I try to push down to insert the bolt. On the other, the bottom of the strut is facing the other direction?!?
They also seem a bit longer than stock, what the hell??? Any suggestions? Thanks

 

[Sweersa]

NEW PROBLEM!! I have both the front shock/struts out, no problems with that. But now the bottom of the strut won't line up with bolt!
On one of the struts, it seems just slightly off and is resisting when I try to push down to insert the bolt. On the other, the bottom of the strut is facing the other direction?!?
They also seem a bit longer than stock, what the hell??? Any suggestions? Thanks

Can you turn the bottom? I seem to remember the 1A Auto video where the guy uses a tool to turn the button of the assembly to fit the control arm.

 

[LMHmedchem]

NEW PROBLEM!! I have both the front shock/struts out, no problems with that. But now the bottom of the strut won't line up with bolt!
On one of the struts, it seems just slightly off and is resisting when I try to push down to insert the bolt. On the other, the bottom of the strut is facing the other direction?!?
They also seem a bit longer than stock, what the hell??? Any suggestions? Thanks

It will be a bit longer than stock for you because your "stock" is old the spring and shock are permanently compressed.

If the shock absorber bolt hole is way off, see if dropping the entire strut out and rotating one bolt hole will help. Does that make sense?

You can use a large screwdriver to turn the shockabsorber a bit and get the bolt to line up with the hole. You may need to use your extender pipe to push down the LCA enough to get the bottom of the shock absorber to seat.

I think the best thing to do is to seat the bottom of the strut in the LCA and slide the shock absorber bolt in place. You may need to use your extender pipe to push down the LCA some. It is spring loaded and should move down with some pressure. After you get the bolt in place, move the top into position. If the bolts don't quite line up, you can use a large screwdriver to try and turn the top of the strut a bit to get it lined up. Slide the screwdriver between the top bolts and the center of the housing and you should be able to get it to turn a bit. Use the biggest screw driver you have.

This is the 1A video for the front struts,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOMMuAj5TQ4

LMHmedchem

 

[shane10]

Can you turn the bottom? I seem to remember the 1A Auto video where the guy uses a tool to turn the button of the assembly to fit the control arm.

I tried that, put a screwdriver in both sides and tried to crank it, I might have moved it a cm or so I can't even tell. Also in the video for the front, he had to lift the lower control arm to fit the hole in the strut. For me, I have to LOWER the control arm to fit the strut, and I can't seem to even be able to get it low enough to put the bolt through.
They new struts are DEFINITELY longer.

 

[LMHmedchem]

I tried that, put a screwdriver in both sides and tried to crank it, I might have moved it a cm or so I can't even tell. Also in the video for the front, he had to lift the lower control arm to fit the hole in the strut. For me, I have to LOWER the control arm to fit the strut, and I can't seem to even be able to get it low enough to put the bolt through.
They new struts are DEFINITELY longer.

Read my post above (post 58) and see if that helps. Like I said, the new strut should be a bit longer. Compare the old and new and see how different they are. If the new strut is allot longer, check the specs on the KYB site to make sure you got the right part.

LMHmedchem