New Toy

[koda2000]

On their instruction sheet (pdf I have saved), it does mention to properly torque to factory spec and it lists the correct ft lbs mentioned earlier. So I would go with that and try to get them all torqued without looking at how much "crush". Then as mentioned earlier- t re torque after 1000 miles.

Yeah, I'll definitely torque the "C" and "B" bolts to spec but I'll play with the "A" bushing. Maybe I can get the H/D washer off the old lower "A" bushing and use it. That one wont bend when I torque the bolt.

 

[skpyle]

Very well done, sir!

Seth K. Pyle

 

[koda2000]

Update:
I was able to remove the metal washers from my OE lower "A" bushings (by heating them up with a torch). I then removed the "A" mount bolts, flattened out the bent Prothane supplied metal washers (which really weren't any thinner that the OE's, but I think are made of a softer steel) doubled them up with the OE washers. Then I was able to torque the bolts down to the recommended 41 ft lbs. Man, that seems awfully tight, but that's the torque that is called for. I guess if the poly bushing splits I call Prothane.

Edit: I just when to the mailbox and back. No more clunking noises on the driveway.

I will check the torque on all the body mount bolts after a 1000 miles or so (assuming I have the truck that long).

What's left to do?
Replace the driver's seat bottom
Trans service
Valve cover gaskets
Clean the rear seat
Finish getting the mastic out of the bed
Second engine flush with Amsoil engine flush
and a handful of minor things - 10 min jobs

I'm thinking about adding a pre-oiler (rather than replacing the timing chain cassettes) if I do decide to keep the ST. Guess I'll have to talk to 2000streetrod about how to go about it. I think that may be the best bang-for-the-buck and easiest way to keep this engine alive for as long as possible. My '97 Sport SOHC is at 250K and still going strong.

 

[swshawaii]

I hear a little clunking while driving over my bumpy 1/4 mile driveway.
Sounded like it was coming from the front, so maybe I should tighten the "A" bolts more.

Did tightening the "A" radiator body mount bolts stop the clunking? The more I read a torch and strong impact is almost essential for replacing body mounts. Initially I tried loosening the confined and heavily thread locked body mount bolts with a cheater pipe alone. No way, at least for me. Ford says in the TSB linked below they may require up to 350 ft/lbs. to remove. Heating the bolt tips for 20 seconds with with a strong 1/2" electric torque wrench actually made the job fun.

CREAKING NOISE WHILE TURNING OVER BUMPS - #3 BODY MOUNT REINFORCEMENT PLATE CRACK (2001 ST "D" Locations)
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=114372

 

[koda2000]

Did tightening the "A" radiator body mount bolts stop the clunking? The more I read a torch and strong impact is almost essential for replacing body mounts. Initially I tried loosening the confined and heavily thread locked body mount bolts with a cheater pipe alone. No way, at least for me. Ford says in the TSB linked below they may require up to 350 ft/lbs. to remove. Heating the bolt tips for 20 seconds with with a strong 1/2" electric torque wrench actually made the job fun.

CREAKING NOISE WHILE TURNING OVER BUMPS - #3 BODY MOUNT REINFORCEMENT PLATE CRACK (2001 ST "D" Locations)
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=114372

Yes, tightening the front mount bolts stopped the clunking completely (read edit to previous post).

As is typical, once you have done a job you learn the best way to do it. I used an impact wrench capable of delivering up to 750 ft lbs of torque. I sprayed WD40 up into the mount from the bottom and let it soak to a while. I heated the bolt from the bottom with my MAP torch for amount 20 seconds, used a pipe wrench braced against the inner rocker on the lower part of the metal mount and my bolts came out with no problem. For the front "A" mount there's a 18mm nut that you must remove from the top first, then the bolt (15mm head) came out pretty easily with the impact.

The Prothane instruction sheets indicates there are OE shims on the tops of the "A" rad mounts, but I did not find any. Maybe the shims were only installed by Ford when necessary.

 

[koda2000]

Pics of "A" bushing before and after torqueing the bolt to 41 FP. Big difference...

Before:

After:

it's quite a chore to torque the body mount bolts because even though you think the bolts are tight, you have to turn and turn the torque wrench before it will click. It's like it's never gonna click, but finally it does.

 

[swshawaii]

Wow! Huge difference, don't think they'll be coming loose without Loctite.

Hey koda, is it just me or do I sense an "emotional attachment" to this ST?

I'm thinking of vanity plate ideas. How many characters can be used in GA? LOL

 

[koda2000]

Wow! Huge difference, don't think they'll be coming loose without Loctite.

Hey koda, is it just me or do I sense an "emotional attachment" to this ST?

I'm thinking of vanity plate ideas. How many characters can be used in GA? LOL

Yeah, there's no way those bolts are coming loose.

RE vanity plates; IDK, maybe 7 characters. Thing is, in GA you have to pay for vanity plates every year, not just once. Back in the 70's in CT I had a vanity plate on my '71 Road Runner that read BDWZR. Can you figure that one out?

I haven't decided whether I want to keep the ST or not. I like the ST, but the SOHC engine scares me, and the amenities are rather sparse. Pulse, I don't need 3 trucks for my personal use and my wife just told me she isn't going to renew her driver's license next month. Says she's not comfortable driving anymore. If I keep the ST something will have to go and the one that's worth the most (excluding the ST) is my '01 EB, which I hate to get rid of because it's too nice. It's the nicest of the six Expl's/Mounty's in the family by far. I think I'd be lucky to clear $3200-$3500 on the EB, which barely leaves me any profit and then I'd like to get the crack in the ST's bedside repaired and the scratch in the front fender repainted. I'll decide when I'm completely finished with the ST project. Probably the smartest thing to do is to sell the EB as I never drive it anymore.

 

[koda2000]

Update:
I received my white-face HVAC controls overlay in the mail this afternoon. I think it looks good. Thanks for the tip kj.

Before white-face:

After white-face:

I also received my Dorman PCV elbow kit. Here's hopping it fits.

 

[Kjhadfield]

Good deal on no more radiator mount clunking! The fsm doesn't mention a shim for the radiator mount, maybe it's a mistake on the 6116 instructions?

Now that looks clean! Honestly w/ the newly painted bezel that old hvac overlay was a sore thumb.

The only thing I could think of on your plate was bad wizzer but that can't be right?

 

[Kjhadfield]

Hey koda, is it just me or do I sense an "emotional attachment" to this ST?

That definitely seems to be the growing trend

Koda- I dont think we'll let up on letting you know either. I think the st is the best of both worlds, suv/4drs and a small bed. Adding a cap/topper and it's no competition (although they aren't for everyone) but it gives you hatch space your used to w/ the eb

 

[koda2000]

Good deal on no more radiator mount clunking! The fsm doesn't mention a shim for the radiator mount, maybe it's a mistake on the 6116 instructions?

Now that looks clean! Honestly w/ the newly painted bezel that old hvac overlay was a sore thumb.

The only thing I could think of on your plate was bad wizzer but that can't be right?

Try saying it as one word with the accent on the first syllable.

 

[swshawaii]

Ahh, those high school daze. Glad to see you still have some brain cells. Peace.

BTW, once upon a time I had a 1970 Boss 429. Biggest whoopin' I ever got was from a HemiCuda. Not even close. Still crying today over trading it in for a POS '72 Gran Torino Sport. One recently sold on a Mecum auction for around $250k.

 

[koda2000]

Ahh, those high school daze. Glad to see you still have some brain cells. Peace.

BTW, once upon a time I had a 1970 Boss 429. Biggest whoopin' I ever got was from a HemiCuda. Not even close. Still crying today over trading it in for a POS '72 Gran Torino Sport. One recently sold on a Mecum auction for around $250k.

Winner, winner chicken dinner. Good old Bud Man.

Yeah, Hemi's and 440's were pretty dominate on the street, but a Boss 9 is definitely worth more today. I had a '70 Mach 1. I always loved that body style. Today I'd kill for a Boss 302 with all the goodies.

 

[koda2000]

I Installed my Dorman PCV elbows today. Used one from the right valve cover to the plastic tube that goes to the intake snorkel and the other one on the PCV's plastic tube to the throttle body to get rid of the piece of heater hose the PO had installed, which was kinked and rotten.

 

[koda2000]

Just ordered a Wix transmission filter off eBay. How many quarts of Mercon V for a drain and filter change? I'm thinking 4-5, but I usually measure what drains out to know what to put in. I'm also going to add a drain plug while the pan is off and figure I'll do another fluid change after 3,000 miles or so.

 

[swshawaii]

You're correct, five quarts should be enough for a filter change.
http://www.mysporttrac.com/mysporttrac/projects/TrannyFluidFilter/index.html

Don't know if this interests you, some have reported firmer shifting.
http://www.mysporttrac.com/mysporttrac/projects/epc/epc.html

 

[koda2000]

You're correct, five quarts should be enough for a filter change.
http://www.mysporttrac.com/mysporttrac/projects/TrannyFluidFilter/index.html

Don't know if this interests you, some have reported firmer shifting.
http://www.mysporttrac.com/mysporttrac/projects/epc/epc.html

Great tip, but I no have issues with the way the trans shifts, so I don't think I'll mess with it. - Thanks.

I just ordered the B&M trans drain plug. I'll have to figure out a good place to put it where there's nothing in the way. I'll use my step drill to make the hole. If you drill holes in sheet metal (or even plastic) and don't own a step drill, you need one. It's nice because it makes a perfect hole every time and never catches and bends the metal, plus if the hole isn't large enough you just go another step without having to go find another bit.

 

[swshawaii]

Here's ANOTHER link. 4WD pans and filters are different, not sure if it applies. You're RWD, correct?

http://www.mysporttrac.com/mysporttrac/projects/TrannyPlug/index.html

 

[koda2000]

Here's ANOTHER link. 4WD pans and filters are different, not sure if it applies. You're RWD, correct?

http://www.mysporttrac.com/mysporttrac/projects/TrannyPlug/index.html

Yes, it's a RWD.