New Toy

[koda2000]

Cool. Post the pic of it in the daylight and I'll check it out. How does it attach? Does it just stick on?

I have a spare set of black HVAC controls. I wonder how they would look. Maybe better than the mismatched silver. White would be better though.

BTW, I was just looking on whitefacegauges.net and the picture the show under EXPLORER looks identical to your night-time pic. It also says it's for the ST. What didn't match on your first order? It shows a price of $13.99 so with shipping I suppose it would cost around $20. Reading the installation instructions show it sticks on.

 

[Kjhadfield]

Yes, they now have it listed on there website!

http://www.whitegauges.net/categories/Ford/Explorer/ If you look at the ex heater control above- that's the one I got at 1st but on eBay. I didn't realize the difference till I about put it on. The dots supposed to be # the cold/hot was different and vent options off instead of a zero. During the day it wouldn't of looked bad but at night it wouldn't shine threw right. I was just going to stick it on at that time. Another member lead me to those gauges but when asked after the fact, he didn't have a problem with it at night cause he took the old off then installed. But either way, they look great-day or night!

For the price- I think it's a good cosmetic change, more for the driver than to show off but those little things bug me I guess

 

[koda2000]

Yes, they now have it listed on there website!

http://www.whitegauges.net/categories/Ford/Explorer/ If you look at the ex heater control above- that's the one I got at 1st but on eBay. I didn't realize the difference till I about put it on. The dots supposed to be # the cold/hot was different and vent options off instead of a zero. During the day it wouldn't of looked bad but at night it wouldn't shine threw right. I was just going to stick it on at that time. Another member lead me to those gauges but when asked after the fact, he didn't have a problem with it at night cause he took the old off then installed. But either way, they look great-day or night!

For the price- I think it's a good cosmetic change, more for the driver than to show off but those little things bug me I guess

Ok. I really like the white. I'll probably order it next week. My neoprene body mount bushing kit arrived today, so I think that will keep me busy for a while. I wasn't expecting it so soon, so this screws up my planned schedule.

eh, I checked and the shipping for the whiteface HVAC controls was free, so I went ahead and ordered it for just $13.99. Everyday is just like Christmas when parts show up.

 

[Kjhadfield]

Ok. I really like the white. I'll probably order it next week. My neoprene body mount bushing kit arrived today, so I think that will keep me busy for a while. I wasn't expecting it so soon, so this screws up my planned schedule.

eh, I checked and the shipping for the whiteface HVAC controls was free, so I went ahead and ordered it for just $13.99. Everyday is just like Christmas when parts show up.

That is a good feeling. I finally got my car brush (I know right, excited about a car wash brush) in after a month.

W/out looking back on this thread- was it you that replaced parts ( I want to say tie rods) with moog, the new integral boot design? Do you know what others parts use this style, I don't think they changed the pn for the new design. I'd like to make sure I'd get all the same design preferable the new

 

[koda2000]

Thanks for the daytime pic. That really looks good. Matches the instrument cluster nicely, kinda ties everything together.

I have replaced upper and lower ball joints, lots of end-links and a few outer tie rod ends, but not on the ST project. I think my '01 EB 5.0L could use inner tie rod ends, but it hasn't been a priority as I almost never drive it. They kind of creak, but only after driving a few miles. There's no play in them, but everything else is new, so I can't imagine what else it could be.

I prefer Moog suspension parts. I usually buy them from RockAuto. Be sure to get their "Problem Solver" parts and not just their service grade.

Is this what you're looking at?

http://www.rockauto.com/info/11/AMG_ES3667_P04_BOT__ra_p.jpg

I don't know what other parts are using this design, other than Ford OE ball joints (which rot away and don't have grease fittings, plus the Ford upper BJ is not replaceable w/out changing the upper control arm) but it should keep the dirt out much better than the old style boot. On the other hand you can't flush out and moister that may get in there. Don't know if that's an issue. I don't think you can buy better than Moog.

 

[Kjhadfield]

Sorry, must of been in another members thread. They received a moog part that at 1st inspection came w/out a boot and found out moog has a new "integral boot" design.

That was my mistake, sorry for the confusion. I had emailed moog for an answer on if they had new part #s for the new design but there response email only said its a "rolling" design change so I assume it's the same pn. They didn't even mention what parts were getting the new design change

 

[swshawaii]

This thread? If so Moog doesn't seem to be in any rush to announce it. Must be LOTS of "new old stock" sitting on dealer shelves.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=428640

 

[Kjhadfield]

Yes, that was it. Wasn't sure what part but those were lbj. I plan on getting uca and tie rods in the near future and was kinda hoping for the new design (they might not even of upgraded the tie rods).

This is the email from moog

Hi Kyle

Thank you for contacting us.

The new design is a running change. But since the explorer application is a popular one, there is a very good chance that
RockAuto has the new ones in stock at this point.

MOOG Team

My original email was asking for the updated part #s and what parts received the new design for our application and that's what I got in return

 

[koda2000]

Yes, that was it. Wasn't sure what part but those were lbj. I plan on getting uca and tie rods in the near future and was kinda hoping for the new design (they might not even of upgraded the tie rods).

This is the email from moog

Hi Kyle

Thank you for contacting us.

The new design is a running change. But since the explorer application is a popular one, there is a very good chance that
RockAuto has the new ones in stock at this point.

MOOG Team

My original email was asking for the updated part #s and what parts received the new design for our application and that's what I got in return

Well, in my experience even Moog's old design are pretty damn good.

 

[koda2000]

No Truck Fun Today:
4 year old frig stopped working. Spend 1/2 the day trying to find someone who works weekends to repair it. Finally found a guy who says he'll come tomorrow (I'll believe it when I see him standing in front of me). Decided to go to Home Depot to buy a small freezer to keep the $200 in groceries I bought yesterday from going bad. The tried to cut the grass (which is about 10" tall from all the rain we've had) but it's still to wet to cut even on the highest setting, so it clogged the mower deck and started smoking the belt. I had to give up. now it's thundering and lightening out. If it rains again I'll never get the grass cut. There's about 6 acres of it and I've only managed to cut about 1/2 of it so far.

My new Ford key arrived in the mail today. Looks just like the original (blue FORD oval and all). Now I can go to the dealership and get it cut and programmed and get the cruise control recall done while I'm there.

 

[koda2000]

Not much truck related happening this week. I did receive my new cargo cover lock retainer. Apparently Ford changed the design a bit to prevent the retainer from coming off so easily, but I still found I had to reshape the retainer to increase its tension. Easy to do with a pair of needle nose pliers. It's doubtful I'll get my new body mount bushing installed this week, but if my PCV hose kit and white face HVAC controls show up I'll throw them on.

BTW, I finally got someone to come and read my 4 year old refrig its last rights yesterday (compressor is bad). The guy that promised to be out Sunday never showed up, never called. So now I'm in the process of buying a new refrig (a Whirlpool this time, not another POS LG). At least this should be the last refrigerator I ever have to buy.

Oh and my tractor blew it's tensioner pulley and the only one I could find locally was about a 1/2 inch smaller in diameter, which made the belt slip, so I had to reengineer the tension arm and spring to make it work. I just finished cutting the grass and mulching it. I blame the ST project (and 2 weeks of almost daily rain) for turning a 3 hour project into a 3 day adventure. For next season I'll get the right pulley, a new deck belt and I'll need to have the tension arm welded, but my temporary fixes should get me through this season.

 

[koda2000]

Update RE Quality Auto Parts rear diff dispute:
I received a call from my credit card company today, regarding my dispute with QA Parts wanting me to pay the return shipping on the POS damaged, overpriced rear diff they sold me. They said they are removing the full charge from my account and they're telling QA Parts that if they want their diff back they can have it shipped back at their expense. If they don't want to do that, I don't have to return it and can do with it as I please. It ought to be work a few bucks at the metal recyclers, no? A nice lunch at the local steakhouse and a beer anyway.

 

[OffTrac]

That's great.

 

[koda2000]

That's great.

Yeah, it's a load off my mind and it helps me pay for the new frig.

 

[swshawaii]

Good for you koda, hope you left the worst feedback possible for "Quality" Auto Parts on Ebay. Body mounts next?

For those that missed this dispute, it starts on post #155 . What a crock O S, reputation is everything to Ebay sellers.

 

[koda2000]

Good for you koda, hope you left the worst possible feedback for "Quality" Auto Parts on Ebay.

For those that missed this dispute, it starts on post #155 . What a crock, reputation is everything to Ebay sellers.

Didn't buy it through eBay, but here's the review I wrote on ResellerRatings.com for Quality Auto Parts:

A horrible experience. Apparently they are just a parts sourcing company based in India. I needed a complete rear axle assembly for a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac. They said they had one and it could be shipped to me for $795. I purchased it and what arrived, about a week later, was an incomplete, worthless, total piece of junk. It was rusty, missing all the brake related parts, had a huge bashed in area on one of the axle housing ends, which destroyed the axle seal area and internally it had a rounded off bolt on the axle retaining pin, which meant it could not even be disassembled. When I called Quality AP the next day to report the problem, I was told they did not have another one available. I asked for a full refund and was told they would return my purchase price once I returned the axle at my expense and that the return shipping (nearly $300) would NOT be refunded. That is a load of crap! I contacted my credit card company and have disputed the charge until Quality AP issues a shipping label. I since learned that a rear axle from any 1995-2001 Explorer could work and I bought one locally for $300. I just hope I can eventually get my money back from Quality AP.

DO NOT DEAL WITH THESE THIEVES. Quality Auto Parts... What a joke.

 

[01STrunner]

Hey Koda, when are you going to add the Trac to your signature???

 

[koda2000]

Hey Koda, when are you going to add the Trac to your signature???

I guess when it's finished, but only if I decide to keep it.

 

[koda2000]

Update:
Well it was such a beautiful day outside I decided to try starting on the body mount bushings. I began by removing the driver's seat, the door sill plate and left kick panel, then I peeled back the floor covering to access the center 2 mount bolts. I got the bolts out pretty easily with the help of a pair of vise grips, my impact wrench, WD40 and my torch. The "C" bushing nut/washer had to be punched apart (as per the directions) but the "B" nut/washer came apart by hand. The hardest part of removing the lower half of the "B" nut/washer was figuring out how to get the emergency brake cable out of the way. I found the "D" bushing looked fine. It looks like it's made of neoprene and not foam like the "B" & "C" bushings. I would have changed it, but w/out being able to hold the lower nut/washer, to prevent it from turning, I can't figure out how to get it apart. The "A" bushing was also intact (and not made of foam) but I removed the bolt and replaced the lower part of the bushing. I couldn't figure out how to get the top half out. Seems to be captured between the body and the frame and I didn't see a way to lift the front of the body. With the "D" bushing in place it was quite a task to lift the body high enough to remove the top halves of the "B" and "C" nut/washers, but I finally got them out. another 1/16 of an inch and I would not have gotten them out. I ended with installing just the lower half of the "A" bushing, which was quite easy. I finally know what the 2 large round holes in the top of the radiator core are for.

I left the driver's side bolts loose, thinking it might make it easier to get the passenger side nut/washer top halves out. We'll see.

Once I let the body back down on the frame, I found both the front & rear driver's doors no longer need further hinge adjustment. They close perfectly now, so I guess the deteriorated "B" and "C" body mounts made the body sag in the center.

Now for the dumb move of the day...
Last night I removed the radio and radio bezel and placed them on the rear seat (which was folded down). Today I had to fold the rear seats up to remove the driver's seat, so I took the radio and placed it on top of the hard tonneau cover along with the bezel. That was all well and good until I started jacking the body up. I heard a noise and immediately knew what it was, the radio sliding off the truck. The bezel didn't move thanks to the foam piece around the vents. The radio landed directly on its side, slightly cracking the plastic front panel. I can fix the plastic panel with some Super Glue, but I was sure the radio would no longer work. I plugged it in and believe it or not it still works after falling at least 4 feet to the cement garage floor! Sometimes you just get lucky.

If anyone has any tips on removing the "A" upper and "D" mounts when they're not deteriorated, I'll consider changing them too.

 

[Kjhadfield]

I don't think your supposed to or should leave the drivers side loose when you do the passenger side, from what I read. I think it's because shifting?

I think it was valas and midnight that posted how to do the d mounts the best and he had to deal with rust but the process should be the same for you, just easier with no rust. It's something to do with an integral spring/clip? Taking a pipe to release it was the fix- sorry I can't remember specifics. I seen these huge claw type vise grips to hold the lower d mount from spinning. I don't recall reading difficulty on the a mount

Edit: it was in the body mount sticky