Newbie towing question...

[2K_Limited]

I have a 2000 Limited with the V8 5.0 motor. It also has the tow package (which I believe is included in the limited line) and AWD if it matters. I only have the bumper hitch and won't be able to install a decent hitch before the tow.

I need to tow my brothers car (a civic hb, probably about 2200 pounds with him in it) from his place to mine (about 30 miles). I have a tow rope (I know... I know..) and was wondering where a good place to attach the rope to the truck would be. Should I just find any part of the frame and hook it on there, or should I attach the hook through the hole in the bumper for the ball?

Sorry about my ignorance. I am new to Explorers and new to trucks in general.

Thanks!

Chris

 

[white96x]

the "bumper for the ball" or the tongue weight is only like 300-400 lbs i beleive. I really wouldn't attempt trying to do this. Just me though.

 

[2K_Limited]

But that is the tongue weight, right? That is how much load can actually sit on the hitch, right? Like I said, I am a newbie, so if I am wrong, please correct me.

Chris

 

[white96x]

no-you are correct the max tongue weight on my '96 x is 300-400 lbs max!

 

[blichy]

Actually he is talking about towing the car using the rope, not a trailer. Personally, I would recommend against this for any distance, let alone 30 miles. You would be better off renting a dolly to tow it. Go to UHaul and they can get a hitch on for you in less than an hour, then you can pick up the dolly too.

 

[2K_Limited]

Well, I will be towing this car behind, me using a rope, not a trailer, so there would be almost no tongue weight, right?

Chris

BTW, thanks for fielding my questions.

 

[expo5.0]

the tongue weight if you did this would be essentially zero. however, its a really dangerous thing to do! i'm assuming the car your going to be towing is broken in some way right? well if its not running it won't have power assist brakes! or power steering! how will he (you said he'd be riding in it) be sure to control it. i know everything would be fine under perfect conditions, but what if something goes wrong and he you have to slam your brakes on?

also, i'm sure the cops wouldn't be big fans of this if they saw you.

 

[2K_Limited]

Well, the car is a civic and doesn't have power steering and even without the brake booster, the brakes should be able to stop the car in an emergency, it will just require more effort. I will take that into consideration and test that before we attempt to 'hit the road'.

I hadn't thought of that though, thanks.

Chris

 

[2K_Limited]

Ok, I will probably go ahead and do this the right way. So, I can pickup a class III hitch from my local autoparts store, right? It seems like it is a pretty simple installation. I have a decent amount of automotive experience (engine replacement, etc) and a decent set of tools, so I am assuming that it is something I can do in my garage with a minimal number of problems, right?

Or, since the bumper hitch is a class II hitch (found this from searching this site), then I can get by just using that for the dolly, right

Chris

PS. Man, I hate being a newbie and having to ask such STUPID questions.

 

[Jason_25]

Just as long as the weight does not exceed 3500 pounds you bumper will be fine. No need for the hitch.

 

[Abominous95XLT]

I recommend U-Haul for doing simple trailer stuff fast and cheap. They set me up with a nice ball, rewired my tow wires so they are real long and fit inside my jack compartment and gave me the wire harness for the trailer that was self testing with LEDs. All for about $26. It took about ten minutes. I was very happy with them.

 

[rscamaro73]

OK. Another question, same situation - towing a car.

99 XLT 5.0, 2wd
Towing a 73 Camaro.


Anyways, I'm looking for a good deal on a Class 3 hitch. Dunno about a dolly or a trailer to tow with. I'm also looking for something to BUY, because U-haul wants $350 for 3 days of rental to go from coast to coast. Not too safe in MY book. Plus its $20 a day after that.

I could use some towing tips...and any recommendations that might help me along.

Thanks,
Wayne

 

[jjue]

I pulled a friend's 67 Mustang on his tandem axle dovetail trailer before he installed the trailer brakes on the trailer and I installed the airbag helper springs on the rear suspension on my 97 Mountaineer.

While the engine (302) is fine, the rear needs help to handle that type of load, hence I installed the airbags. I am currently wired for trailer brakes with a 6-pin round connector, but I haven't installed the electronic brake controller yet. The Draw-tite roundtube Class III/IV hitch is tough and has handled everthing that I have given it. Take your time when pulling any trailer.

 

[expo5.0]

talk about the airbag helpers. i'm thinking about trying to use them on my truck. its lowered but i do a ton of towing.

do you think it would work if i lowered the rear 3" with blocks and then installed those that i'd be able to adjust back up to a reasonable height and back for towing and long highway trips etc. all you need is a regular air hose to fill them right? how do you reduce the pressure? is there just a valve that they come with? do you have the air controller thing? just tell me how you like them, and if you think they'd work for what i'm trying to do.

 

[jjue]

I think that I answered this one in chat earlier, but anyway I got a total of 2 5/16" of lift at 100 psi unloaded. The springs themselves use a valve similar to your tires for filling. The air compressor from Air Lift is what I use for mine. Since the rear axle is lowered with a lift block and that the air bag is attached to the leafs with a u-bolt, you shouldn't have a problem. So far, I haven't had any leaks, and I'd put them on my next tow vehicle in a heartbeat.

 

[expo5.0]

yeah, you answered this earlier and really helped me a lot. i'll let you know when i go ahead and do this stuff. hopefully soon, but it may not be until next towing season

 

[MikeTEC]

Expo: I followed JJUE'ss advice and got air lifts. Like he said, they are nice and will level up my 400lb travel trailer tongue instantly. I bought the on-board compressor and that is neat not to have to search for an air station.

Still trying to decide if I want to have those headers I bought installed. The idea of loosing torque at lower RPMs has me concerned. Pulling is all about torque. What do you all think? Mike

 

[jjue]

I'm also concerned about low-end torque for towing, but I've just about decided to go with the ceramic coated GT-40P headers since they seem to be available again. I've talked to friends of mine that have ceramic headers (but for other vehicles), and they told me that torque loss isn't present since the ceramic insulates better, maintaining exhaust velocity. Also the ceramic headers will keep the engine compartment cooler. As for exhaust, I think that I'm going to go with the Gibson SS sideswept system since it isn't much louder than stock and it's designed for torque, but I will have it welded whether I do it or a shop does it after I install it.

Now, all of this is dependent on how soon I can buy a house, hopefully, by the end of spring 2003.

 

[MikeTEC]

Good choice, jjue, on getting those ceramic coated ones while that are available. Man, they are a bargin. Sue wish I had acted faster and got ceramic ones. I checked one company and they want $179.00 to ceramic coat these stainless steel ones I have. I just bought them because they also may not be available soon.

Do you have the part number for the Gibson system. Can you describe it to me. Is it a muffler or muffler with side exit pipes/pipe? I have been looking a Borla muffler, but like you, I need to save torque! Thanks Mike

 

[expo5.0]

yeah, i just can't wait to get the time and money together to buy those air lifts. let me know how they actually work.