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No A$$! T/c?

...besides pushing bigger tires, the 4.56 gears should not have slowed you way down from what you had, but maybe a tad bit...that is why i was wondering that maybe somehow, you got 4.10's put in instead...is it possible for you to drive another lifted X with the 35's and 4.56's just to see if there is a dramatic difference to the vehicles???
 



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For what he described, it's normal. From a stop going uphill in 2wd or 4hi will take some throttle to get things moving.

I doubt you'll gain anything from a different converter to make it worth it either.
 






There are only a couple things that a torque converter can do -- stall at the stock RPM, stall at a lower RPM, or stall at a higher RPM.

We all know what the stock stall speed feels like, so what happens if it stalls lower or higher?

Well, lower would have it "creeping" while at idle, requiring firmer brake pedal effort to stand still when stopped in gear (and that's all -- once it is engaged, there is no more difference in performance).

A higher stall RPM would mean that under load, the converter would continue to slip unto the set RPM was reached, and the truck would not move until then (and again, that's all -- once it is engaged, it is the same as any other converter).

So, unless you are wanting to play with your launch speeds under load (such as a drag race start, where the brakes are held via line-lock until that last yellow light) you are probably best with the stock stall converter. Going lower only heats everything up.

Now, if your converter is stalling at 2000 RPM under load, it is likely either the wrong converter for the application (swapped in from a smaller motor setup, which the higher torque of the bigger engine can over-stall) or it is a purpose-built high-stall converter.

As far as the 4.56 gears being the right choice for your setup, I'd say that they are -- they are as close to stock ratio as possible. If you wanted a performance advantage, you should have chose 4.88 or 5.13. As I recall, from the conversation about your gears, you were worried about going as high as 4.56. I also recall that we said it wouldn't be that big a difference... Guess it wasn't.
 






As far as the 4.56 gears being the right choice for your setup, I'd say that they are -- they are as close to stock ratio as possible. If you wanted a performance advantage, you should have chose 4.88 or 5.13. As I recall, from the conversation about your gears, you were worried about going as high as 4.56. I also recall that we said it wouldn't be that big a difference... Guess it wasn't.

Yes, it's a good thing you didn't go with 4.10s like you originally wanted.
 






As far as the 4.56 gears being the right choice for your setup, I'd say that they are -- they are as close to stock ratio as possible. If you wanted a performance advantage, you should have chose 4.88 or 5.13. As I recall, from the conversation about your gears, you were worried about going as high as 4.56. I also recall that we said it wouldn't be that big a difference... Guess it wasn't.

5.13? I didn't know they made them for the 8.8 that pinion has got to be teeny weeny. Which begs the question how strong can that thing actually be? Once you get that small you've got a very small mesh area between the ring and pinion. If my calculations are correct your talking about approximately a 2" diameter pinion gear :eek:

edit: forgot to add this......

Dora, it is easy to calculate your effective ratio in gears by using the cross multiplication method for ratios.

for example...

You have 35" tires and you want to know what gears you need to match your stock setup. Lets say your stock tires are the 30" and you have 3.73 gears. here is how you do it


--35--------X
_____ = ______
--30-------3.73
(disregard the dashes I had to do that for spaces to hold the formatting)

first you cross multiply (35 x 3.73 = 130.55)

then you divide the result by the base (30) so (130.55 / 30 = 4.3517) which solves for X

so you would need a gear equaling 4.3517 to match your stock setup.

This method is irreplacable and can be used for so many things when working with cars. not sure if that makes sense.
 






Is the trans overheating by chance??? My trans is on it's way out and it only has 30,000 miles on it. When I dive an hour to the trail put it in 4lo and start wheeling I notice that it get more sluggish the hotter the trans gets. On one steep rockgarden I was climbing the last ledge at the top of the hill and in 4lo I would have to give it about 2000rpms to even get the tires to spin. It got worse and worse until the trans overheated abd started shooting trans fluid out the overflow. NO GOOD FOR NOTHING A4LD!!!!!!!!
 






ya'll are so insightful..thanks a lot.. so i guess im all good.. i and planning on eventually going with a bigger tire and more lift.. maybe... but i am planning on gettin an underdrive pulley/TB/and header-back 'sumthin'..so power gain ther i guess...
 






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