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no start no oil pressure

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February 15, 2015
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Year, Model & Trim Level
Explorer sport sohc 99
I recently swapped engines into my 99 explorer. the guy I bought it off said it has 65000 k on it. it sat for three months before I installed it. I started it 2 days ago it idled fine for 5 mins. I hit the gas and fell flat on its face. I tried starting it again and battery died. charged it up today to try and finish filling it up with coolant and it wouldn't idle. it died 3 times then finally wouldn't get any oil pressure as if there wasn't any plugs in the engine. I looked and I found I had 1 vacuum line that wasn't plugged in. any ideas? I was told that it could be a stuck injector or valve?
 



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I'm confused

The vehicle shown below your username is a 2003 Explorer. This thread states you swapped an engine into your 1999 Explorer. And the following post states you swapped an engine from a 1999 Explorer into a 2008 Ranger: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3492968&postcount=9

For this 1999 Explorer that is having "no start no oil pressure" problems what year and make did the engine come from?
 






The vehicle shown below your username is a 2003 Explorer. This thread states you swapped an engine into your 1999 Explorer. And the following post states you swapped an engine from a 1999 Explorer into a 2008 Ranger: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3492968&postcount=9

For this 1999 Explorer that is having "no start no oil pressure" problems what year and make did the engine come from?
I have a 99 explorer sport sohc. I got the engine from a guy that pulled it out of a 2008 ford ranger. the guy I bought it off had put it in a 99 explorer sport like mine. he switched all the valve covers intake and manifolds to the 99 style to fit his explorer. I tried starting it again it now has oil pressure but does not have compression now. not really sure what to do.
 






low compression?

Have you actually checked the compression or just assumed it is low because the engine is cranking fast?

Is there a chance that coolant leaked into the head intake ports while installing the engine? Were the upper and lower intake manifolds removed when the engine was installed?
 






Have you actually checked the compression or just assumed it is low because the engine is cranking fast?

Is there a chance that coolant leaked into the head intake ports while installing the engine? Were the upper and lower intake manifolds removed when the engine was installed?

I checked 2 easily accessible cylinders on both banks and it wouldn't go over 20 pounds on both tested cylinders. it was weird the engine turned over normally at first and then after it died felt like the plugs were out of the engine when turned it over the second time.. I checked the oil it doesn't look like their is coolant in it. but I wouldn't think it was coolant because I was trying to bleed the air out of the coolant system right before it died and wouldn't start.
I checked the plugs they were soaked with gas. I think I have what is known as the lawnmower syndrome I think the fuel washed the oil out of the cylinder walls. all plugs stank like gas when I removed the plugs. I'm thinking the loose vacuum line made it run rich which Is why it kept dying and is what caused the flooded engine
 






I fear the worst

I doubt that fuel washing the rings and cylinder walls would result in a 20 psi compression when a good cylinder has 180 psi or more.

One possibility is that the fuel injectors were stuck open allowing fuel to enter the head intake ports and when the valves opened the incompressible fuel in the combustion chamber blew the head gaskets. However, it seems unlikely that all of the injectors were stuck open and you just happened to pull the plugs on two that were.

Another possibility is that the fuel pressure damper located on the fuel rail has a busted diaphragm.
FPDamper.jpg

Pressurized fuel is on one side of the diaphragm and manifold vacuum is on the other side. When the diaphragm ruptures with time fuel gets sucked into the intake manifold and finds its way to the head intake ports. If there is enough of it the head gaskets will blow.

I suggest that you disconnect the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure damper and check for the presence of fuel.
 






I doubt that fuel washing the rings and cylinder walls would result in a 20 psi compression when a good cylinder has 180 psi or more.

One possibility is that the fuel injectors were stuck open allowing fuel to enter the head intake ports and when the valves opened the incompressible fuel in the combustion chamber blew the head gaskets. However, it seems unlikely that all of the injectors were stuck open and you just happened to pull the plugs on two that were.

Another possibility is that the fuel pressure damper located on the fuel rail has a busted diaphragm.
View attachment 88182
Pressurized fuel is on one side of the diaphragm and manifold vacuum is on the other side. When the diaphragm ruptures with time fuel gets sucked into the intake manifold and finds its way to the head intake ports. If there is enough of it the head gaskets will blow.

I suggest that you disconnect the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure damper and check for the presence of fuel.
what would you advise I do if there is none in the vacuum line. I only have the rest of this week to get her going. I pulled all the plugs so ill try and get readings on all tomorrow. I think all the cylinders have low compression.
 






determine why low compression

I would concentrate on determining why the compression is so low. The possibilities that come to mind are blown head gaskets, cracked heads, damaged valves, or incorrect camshaft timing. You can pull all of the spark plugs and inspect them. See if they're all fuel soaked. Make sure it isn't coolant. If you have access to a borescope you can check the valves, pistons and heads for damage. If you have access to an air compressor and a spark plug adapter you can listen for escaping air. You posted (maybe in a PM) that you were adding oil to the cylinders to increase the compression. How much did you add? Did the engine always crank easily or did it seem like it was encountering an obstruction? Many off roaders have damaged their engines by going thru deep puddles and hydro-locking the engine when water got sucked into the air intake.
 






I would concentrate on determining why the compression is so low. The possibilities that come to mind are blown head gaskets, cracked heads, damaged valves, or incorrect camshaft timing. You can pull all of the spark plugs and inspect them. See if they're all fuel soaked. Make sure it isn't coolant. If you have access to a borescope you can check the valves, pistons and heads for damage. If you have access to an air compressor and a spark plug adapter you can listen for escaping air. You posted (maybe in a PM) that you were adding oil to the cylinders to increase the compression. How much did you add? Did the engine always crank easily or did it seem like it was encountering an obstruction? Many off roaders have damaged their engines by going thru deep puddles and hydro-locking the engine when water got sucked into the air intake.
when I originally started the engine everything seemed perfectly fine lots of compression started up right away. although once I hit the gas it died. I started it back up and I had to keep my foot on the gas to keep it going. I think it was because I forgot to plug in one of the vacuum lines. the guy I bought it from never offroaded the truck according to him he was an older guy. all spark plugs were soaked with gasoline. I might have added a couple of teaspoons its hard to say. I will try compressing it with air tomorrow. I took the plugs out to try and evaporate the fuel overnight
 






which vacuum hose?

when I originally started the engine everything seemed perfectly fine lots of compression started up right away. although once I hit the gas it died. I started it back up and I had to keep my foot on the gas to keep it going. I think it was because I forgot to plug in one of the vacuum lines.

Which vacuum hose wasn't connected? The following post shows the upper intake manifold and identifies the vacuum connections: Intake manifold vacuum lines

the guy I bought it from never offroaded the truck according to him he was an older guy. all spark plugs were soaked with gasoline. I might have added a couple of teaspoons its hard to say. . .

I wasn't implying the engine had been damaged by the previous owner. I was just pointing out that when fluids (fuel, water, coolant) get sucked into the engine damage can occur.
 






Which vacuum hose wasn't connected? The following post shows the upper intake manifold and identifies the vacuum connections: Intake manifold vacuum lines



I wasn't implying the engine had been damaged by the previous owner. I was just pointing out that when fluids (fuel, water, coolant) get sucked into the engine damage can occur.
I don't know what they are called but they are thin red and black on the passenger side right under the ac line. on your post I think you labelled it as number 4
 


















possible causes

if it was the timing what would cause that?. the tensioners seem to be fine

If your problem is camshaft timing related is must be due to the jackshaft since both banks have low compression. The primary (crankshaft to jackshaft) chain rarely slips even when its tensioner has completely failed.
Exp019.jpg

There just isn't enough slack in the chain for it to slip a tooth on the sprocket. The crankshaft sprocket is keyed so it can't slip on the crankshaft. What normally happens is the jackshaft sprocket retaining bolt loosens and since the sprocket isn't keyed the jackshaft slips relative to the sprocket. The right hand threads on the jackshaft sprocket retaining bolt keep the bolt tight during normal engine operation. However, when the engine backfires or rapidly decelerates the crankshaft force on the chain can loosen the bolt.
 






If your problem is camshaft timing related is must be due to the jackshaft since both banks have low compression. The primary (crankshaft to jackshaft) chain rarely slips even when its tensioner has completely failed.
View attachment 88189
There just isn't enough slack in the chain for it to slip a tooth on the sprocket. The crankshaft sprocket is keyed so it can't slip on the crankshaft. What normally happens is the jackshaft sprocket retaining bolt loosens and since the sprocket isn't keyed the jackshaft slips relative to the sprocket. The right hand threads on the jackshaft sprocket retaining bolt keep the bolt tight during normal engine operation. However, when the engine backfires or rapidly decelerates the crankshaft force on the chain can loosen the bolt.

I started taking off my intake because I think its numerous injectors stuck open. if its not the injectors I'm gunna take the valve overs off and go from there. you know a lot about these jeez. what are my chances of it being a head gasket and what is most likely the problem?
 






sticking injectors

When injectors sit for a long without being activated they have a tendency to stick. However, they usually stick in the closed instead of open position. I doubt that stuck open injectors is your problem. There is a very remote possibility of a wiring error or short that could energize all of the injectors to open. The red wires to the injectors have battery voltage when the ignition switch is in run or start. The injectors are energized by the PCM when it "grounds" the other wire to the injector. There is a unique wire between each injector and the PCM so if all 6 of those wires were shorted to ground accidently they would all be energized.

The OHV V6 has a reputation for blowing head gaskets when the engine overheats. It seems to be less common on the SOHC V6. How long did the engine run when you first started it? It is difficult to purge air in the cooling system on the SOHC V6. Did the engine run long enough for the heads to overheat?

When you get the valve covers off check the camshaft timing. When the crankshaft is at TDC with cylinder 1 on the compression stroke the timing slot in the end of each camshaft should be below the axis of the camshaft and parallel to the head surface that mates with the valve cover.

TDC
TDCPntr.jpg


Cylinder 1 on compression
ToolsLft.jpg


Timing slot
cam1.jpg
 






When injectors sit for a long without being activated they have a tendency to stick. However, they usually stick in the closed instead of open position. I doubt that stuck open injectors is your problem. There is a very remote possibility of a wiring error or short that could energize all of the injectors to open. The red wires to the injectors have battery voltage when the ignition switch is in run or start. The injectors are energized by the PCM when it "grounds" the other wire to the injector. There is a unique wire between each injector and the PCM so if all 6 of those wires were shorted to ground accidently they would all be energized.

The OHV V6 has a reputation for blowing head gaskets when the engine overheats. It seems to be less common on the SOHC V6. How long did the engine run when you first started it? It is difficult to purge air in the cooling system on the SOHC V6. Did the engine run long enough for the heads to overheat?

When you get the valve covers off check the camshaft timing. When the crankshaft is at TDC with cylinder 1 on the compression stroke the timing slot in the end of each camshaft should be below the axis of the camshaft and parallel to the head surface that mates with the valve cover.

TDC
View attachment 88190

Cylinder 1 on compression
View attachment 88191

Timing slot
View attachment 88192

as I was taking the injectors out I found this and found that 2 injectors were not connected. but I have no clue what this is. its plugged into the injector harness. the engine wasnt even warmed up and was running no more then 5 minutes. its not even remotely 30 degrees here right now. https://plus.google.com/u/0/1136193...6233955093178114002&oid=113619337960068817470
 






connector?

I don't recognize that connector but the photo is pretty dark. Is it attached to the engine wiring harness? Are you using the 1999 engine wiring harness instead of the 2008 harness? If you post the wire colors (i.e. white/red stripe) I can probably identify it.

Two injectors not connected is encouraging but my engine started and ran smoothly with only the injectors on the passenger side functioning due to a wiring error on my part. The engine just didn't have any power - less than a moped going up hill with two riders.
 






I don't recognize that connector but the photo is pretty dark. Is it attached to the engine wiring harness? Are you using the 1999 engine wiring harness instead of the 2008 harness? If you post the wire colors (i.e. white/red stripe) I can probably identify it.

Two injectors not connected is encouraging but my engine started and ran smoothly with only the injectors on the passenger side functioning due to a wiring error on my part. The engine just didn't have any power - less than a moped going up hill with two riders.
the connector wires are blue with orange stripe and brown with pink stripe. it is the 99 harness and I am going to clean the injectors. if they don't seem dirty I am going to take the valve covers off. by any chance can a valve(s) get stuck from the engine sitting to long. and I forgot to mention when I had started the engine up it wouldn't rev past 4000 rpm and would take a long time to get there. here are two more pics https://plus.google.com/u/0/1136193...6234161550102664562&oid=113619337960068817470
https://plus.google.com/u/0/1136193...6234161474970614834&oid=113619337960068817470
 



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EVR connector

Those are the wire colors for the EGR vacuum regulator (EVR) I showed in post 12. An engine sitting for a few months is not that long. If a valve isn't seating its usually because its bent. Did you check the compression on some other cylinders to see if low?
 






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