No start. Replaced tons of parts. Need Help!! please!

[teamadidas01]

Hi I've been having problems starting my car.

Here is what happened and what I have tested. I've ran out of ideas and need help!

The car starts when its been sitting for a while. When started it runs either like crap or seems perfectly fine. But once I crank it once and then shut it off right away, it will never start back up...just cranks.

I've sprayed starter fluid...no go
Ive changed spark plugs, wires, and ignition coil...no go
I"ve tested for spark with a timing light..getting spark
I've replaced the fuel filter...no go
Ran a compression check...all around 145
Tested and cleaned IAC and TPS (didnt clean)..and nothing perfectly fine.

I pulled the spark plugs..and it looked wet.

So I thought the injectors were flooding the cylinders so I replaced all of them...Same symptoms (start when sitting for a while and wont start back up..as if the fuel had to be evaporated before I can start again)

I read somewhere that it could be the crank sensor...so i replaced that and got a pending error code p0113 after trying to start it up.

I then cleaned the MAF erased the code..and the code never came back up. I don't think its the MAF because i tried unplugging it again and tried starting it..and nothing

Checked the Fuel Pressure and its around 60PSI

I don't know what to do anymore. It all of the sudden happened out of nowhere. the car was in perfect running condition before that.

Also, if I am able to start it, the idle is actually a little higher even after its warm around 1300 and wont go down. sometimes it bogs if I step on the gas too quickly or if it idles like crap it starts to stumble and black stuff come out of the tailpipe.

 

[budwich]

perhaps a vacuum leak... check vacuum lines especially those associated with the EGR system.

 

[mishawaka]

I know this seems way out there but possibly a ground problem. I've seen this on a van before, almost the same problem. Check the grounding straps on the block especially.

 

[my pos mounty]

First I would check the wiring from all the sensors to the PCM.
There is a cam sensor as well as a crank sensor. One on the front of engine down low (crank) and one where the distributor used to be (cam sensor). If you want to test the cam sensor, find it, unplug it, key on, dont start truck. Check for voltage between the connector and ground. You should find 1.5 volts DC on one of the wires within the connector. If you dont you have an electrical problem in the harness. If you find the voltage, connect the voltmeter to the sensor, Voltmeter changed to AC scale, again disable engine so it CAN NOT start, turn key to engage starter. You should see voltage pulses. If not, the sensor is junk.
Same procedure can be used for both sensors.
If those check out, you have covered every sensor to make this thing run. Check vacuum leaks. IF you get the truck started get some carb cleaner and start spraying around the intake and hoses, when you hear a change you found it. Concentrate on the intake as these are problematic on these engines.
Anyone else got any ideas?

 

[2000StreetRod]

Which engine?

Which engine do you have? How many miles on the odometer?

I've been told that the 5.0 will start and run with a bad CMP sensor.

Your description indicates the mixture might be rich but not enough to set a DTC. The wet plugs and black smoke may be a result of trying to start the engine multiple times.

Does the "THEFT" light flash rapidly when it won't start?

Does the CEL light illuminate when cranking the engine?

It could be a sticking open EGR valve but if so there should be an associated DTC.

Did you notice excess fuel in the head intake ports when you changed the injectors?

 

[teamadidas01]

Hi, I just checked the cam sensor.

I'm assuming you were referring to the plug right next to where you fill the oil. I have a 2001 explorer xls 4.0. not really sure where the distributor was before my model.

So I checked it and it has no voltage (.01 at times) in either of the connections on the harness itself. This is when I turned the car to the ON position, unplugged the harness, and tested each lead on the harness(2 wire) to the ground of the battery.

If it is an electrical problem, where would I start?

Theft light is not flashing rapidly and the CEL does not illuminate when cranking. It does seem like there was excess fuel in the intake ports though...I just thought that was carbon build up from cranking too much or when I was able to get it started. It ran really rich as mentioned before.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Sohc, cmp & ect

From your description of the CMP sensor location it sounds like you have the SOHC instead of the OHV. The Haynes manual is incorrect in how to test the CMP sensor. If the 2001 is wired like my 2000 then the CMP sensor return does not go to ground. Instead it goes to a common return for multiple sensors (TPS, ECT, DPFE, HO2S) which then connects to the PCM. With the CMP sensor connector disconnected measure the voltage between the dark blue/orange (+) wire and the gray/red (-) wire with the ignition On and engine Off. With the ignition Off, you can check the resistance from the gray/red wire on the CMP connector to the gray/red wire on the TPS connector. The resistance should be less than 1.0 ohm.

Another thing to check is the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor. If it is faulty then every time the engine is started the mixture will be enriched even if the engine is not cold.

 

[robertoa1a]

On the electrical end, my only idea is that there may be a poor ground situation. Everything should be well grounded (by braided straps) hot and cold. A little corrosion and Pbbllitt". You can use a length of wire going from the (-) bat to the block and see what happens.

 

[SEXPLORER01]

.

 

[teamadidas01]

I'll check the Engine coolant temp sensor tomorrow. I do remember a while back that I had an unnoticeable leak at the thermostat housing. It was slowly leaking for the longest time back towards the ECT sensor. When I replaced the gasket, I noticed that the ECT sensor was corroded from coolant sitting on the sensor for a very long time. I hope it's that sensor!

And yes I do have a SOHC.

 

[budwich]

Hi, I just checked the cam sensor.

.......

If it is an electrical problem, where would I start?

Theft light is not flashing rapidly and the CEL does not illuminate when cranking. It does seem like there was excess fuel in the intake ports though...I just thought that was carbon build up from cranking too much or when I was able to get it started. It ran really rich as mentioned before.

What do you mean "the CEL does not illuminate when cranking"????? The cel should be on during the initial "phase of cranking" and then go out shortly there after.

 

[teamadidas01]

FIXED!!! thanks everyone! it turned out to be the ECT sensor. Stupid little *******!

 

[2000StreetRod]

Congratulations!

Glad that you've gotten it fixed and thanks for posting the solution. Now I suggest that you perform the TPS Test Procedure so the next time your IAC valve fails your engine won't die.