strange problem, need help

[NintendoKD]

I pmed you my number man. It is like 8:30 here now. If you don't get a hold of tonight call me tomorrow. When you pull the line off the fpr put your thumb over it and see if you have vacuum. That occurred me to me also. You might be losing vacuum which is causing the fpr not to work.

I don't think it is your MAF in all honesty. When you pulled the line to FPR it should have had some effect on the truck. Since it did not it leads me to believe it is either stuck wide open or you have no vacuum to it.

Well now that we have talked we know that my FPR doesn't work, and mine is a non-replaceable one. *ben stein* yay! I will swap the front o2's around to see if there is a difference. I will also check out the other thing too. My money is on FPR and o2's being swapped at this point. It ran worse with new o2's on the rear, makes no sense.

 

[lounge lizard]

the O2's are sending a signal to the ecu and the ecu is compensating the fuel ratio for that signal.

if you put new O2 sensors in the signal will be different and the ecu will change it's ratio which messes things up even more.

chain reaction of events in the end

 

[NintendoKD]

I understand all of that. I got it to work, I'll run the scanner one more time to be sure there are no pending codes but it drives like a real "4.0 SOHC" explorer now. All I did, after everything else, of course, was swap the front o2's around, only took me like an hour to do, considering that I didn't remove the front tire to do so. I imagine that the weak ground still has something to do with it. I will use the 4-gas on her tomorrow and see if she will pass smog. Still sounds like it is missing, but no codes as far as I know. Drives good, real good, smooth shifts, the whole nine. Looks like celebrations are in order, as well as it being a new year. I do want to take this opportunity to thank all of those involved in this process, and wish you all a very happy new year.

thanks,

Kevin

 

[NintendoKD]

small problems now

having trouble finding the post on the timing thing, may have a legitimate problem there. no loose chain sound, but seems a little off, and still misses consistently on all cyl the same way, I'll try cleaning the plugs tomorrow. This could also be due to the FPR being bad. I'll be sure to pressure test it again tomorrow. I still have to squeak it by CA smog nazis.

 

[lounge lizard]

still may have to find a way to change the FPR to gain some control over that issue.

do the research on sohc v-6 to find the threads.

here is one that might help you out.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=340017

 

[NintendoKD]

still may have to find a way to change the FPR to gain some control over that issue.

do the research on sohc v-6 to find the threads.

here is one that might help you out.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=340017

already found another post, the guy has a picture of the FPR, and it is the kind that is directly conected to the braided fuel line, and is non replaceable. The part no. on the housing, is total bunk. I contacted dealer...s and no one has any clue and act as if I am from the moon. The FPR's that I have seen at parts stores are the same part no. but are the wrong kind. The FPR features a two bold fastener that is fitted inside the fuel rail via an o-ring. the problem i that all of the FPR's don't fit that I have found, bolts don't line up and the dia is all wrong. I may have to replace the fuel rail with one from a removeable FPR exploder, then make new fuel lines.

 

[AuroraZero]

already found another post, the guy has a picture of the FPR, and it is the kind that is directly conected to the braided fuel line, and is non replaceable. The part no. on the housing, is total bunk. I contacted dealer...s and no one has any clue and act as if I am from the moon. The FPR's that I have seen at parts stores are the same part no. but are the wrong kind. The FPR features a two bold fastener that is fitted inside the fuel rail via an o-ring. the problem i that all of the FPR's don't fit that I have found, bolts don't line up and the dia is all wrong. I may have to replace the fuel rail with one from a removeable FPR exploder, then make new fuel lines.

Get the fuel lines as well. Don't make them. Should be the same on the other end and the bends are most likely the same. Not sure why they would have two different setups to these things. Maybe any earlier model then decided to change them and make them replaceable. I really have no clue why people do stupid things like this except to make you have to take it to a mechanic or dealer to get it fixed.

 

[NintendoKD]

not over

well the gremlin just won't give up the ghost. I have a new problem now. P0135, it occured twice, once while slowing to make a turn and again when stopped at an intersection. The first time the engine bogged, the second, it almost died. what now?

 

[NintendoKD]

Not the coolant temp sensor, because if that was the case it would have thrown for both banks, not just one. Could it really be the bank one sensor? is it bad? It worked fine during the SOLUS test. IDK, I want to give up, but I know I'm sooooo close. Can't register till I get it smogged, can't smog till I can drive 200 mi without a code popping up.

 

[AuroraZero]

It could be bad from all the crap it has been getting. No it is not the temp sensor. That should throw it for both sides like you said. I am wondering if it messed it up when they were switched or not.

 

[NintendoKD]

so keep running it and hope that it burns off, or...... get a new one???

 

[AuroraZero]

Try cleaning it is what I would do first. See if it helps any. Have you run the wires going to the sensors yet? If not I would do that also.

 

[NintendoKD]

Not looking forward to playing wiring games especially with the wire loom behind the tranny, PITA. but I'll try cleaning it tonight. bank one is the cyl. 1 side right?

 

[AuroraZero]

Right

 

[NintendoKD]

video evidence

I have it, video proof of my gremlin:, enjoy. Maybe this will help to diagnose the issue. Although there are noticeable missfires the PCM doesn't pick up on them, because there are no codes. I also cleaned the upstream bank 1 o2 to see if that helped. For the record, I removed it, cleaned it with MAF cleaner, replaced the antisieze, then spun it counterclockwise, to tangle the wires for when I tighten it, then inserted it back into the exhaust. I am going to pull the plugs tomorrow, to see if there are any problems, may be something as simple as fouled plugs, although the misfire is pretty uniform on every plug"which the video doesn't show" and it happens consistently. The tach doesn't move, however, the rpms are going up and down. Is this all because of the flowmaster, sounds kind of like it has a big cam in it, has sort of a lope, if it were a v-8 I would be happy, but it isn't, and I am not amused

 

[NintendoKD]

You can also see the beautifull wiring job that I did with the injector connections. I didn't realize that I was so muffled in the video, should add subtitles later. Let me know what you think. It is unfortunate, but you can't really hear the rumble very well in the vid, has a flowmaster dump, and is very radical sounding, obnoxious even, don't judge me, it was cheaper than a replacement muffler.

thanks,

Kevin

 

[AuroraZero]

That is definitely weird man. Still no codes?

The motor does not seem to run to badly but it does misfire. What wires did you put on it?

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=128121

Have a look at that man.

 

[NintendoKD]

That is definitely weird man. Still no codes?

The motor does not seem to run to badly but it does misfire. What wires did you put on it?

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=128121

Have a look at that man.

first thing I checked. I think there may be another problem, it is still running rich and the FPR is working properly at all rps, and for a vacuum pressure test, that is the FPR is doing it's job. MAF is good, tested it today. o2 on bank one I have white wire 1: 12v white wire 2: 12v gray wire: nil/OL black wire: nil/OL. the book calls to test from these wires to ground to find heater voltage + sensor voltage + and ref voltage ~5v and ground. wire 71 on PCM harness has no cont. with the gray wire AKA OL. I think that the O2 is throwing off the fuel a bit, not due to a bad sensor, but a bad wire in the harness. OH! and I failed a presmog, by a fantastically small margin
,even running rich and with misfires at idle "no code" probably due to my fantastically expensive cats.:

 

[AuroraZero]

Time to take the plunge man. Have to dig into the wiring and find the problem. Probably something stupid also just have to find it.

 

[NintendoKD]

...........................................................................................................*throws tantrum like 2 year old* I don wanna trace the wiring I also have another symptom, and I don't know if this helps. The a/c works, and when I turn it on the idle fluctuates. I am not sure if this is just because of the added load of the a/c compressor, or if this is something else entirely.