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No Start what did I fry?

derickl

Member
Joined
March 9, 2006
Messages
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City, State
milwaukee
Year, Model & Trim Level
'92 xploder
When replacing the exhaust Y pipe, I neglected to disconnect the battery. oops. When removing this pipe it contacted and shorted out, I think, on the starter main terminal. There were some sparks and the smell of burnt electric. :mad: I disconnected the battery and resumed the exhaust work. When finished I reconected the battery and everything seemed fine. Had gauges, lights, chime etc. When the key hit the start position, that's when everything went dead. I have since replaced the starter and the fender soleniod and still dead. Battery is new. Any help here is greatly appreciated.
 



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When you say everything went dead, do you mean you lost all the "gauges, lights, chime etc."?
Do you have voltage at the solenoid on the fender? When you try to start it do you get power on the other terminal of the solenoid on the fender?
 






Right dead. There is 12v in one terminal on the fender relay. No power on second terminal when I try to start, that's why I replaced it. Still no luck
 






I am guessing, I don't have my book in front of me, that there is a fusible link in one of the wires from the battery going to your ignition it probably got fried, but with out the wiring diagram in front of me I am not positive, maybe this will spark someone else's recollection with some better information.
 






yep. It's on the diagram. I don't see where it is to check it.
 






OK. The fusable link runs inline to the alternator from the relay. It is OK. What else can I do?
 






I've experienced those symptoms just from a loose connection at the battery. It seems that a lot of times when I disconnect a battery cable, I've had trouble (due to corrosion, spreading of the clamp, or whatever) getting that clamp to make a good contact again. Make sure you've got those battery cables attached securely and that they are making good electrical contact.
 






Have the lights or anything come back on since your inital try to start and they went out?
 






mine did basically the same thing right after replacing the transmission turned out to be coroded battery cables replaced both positive and negative cables and every thing has been fine since
 






When I first open the door the dome light will come on very dim then fade out within 1 second. Like there is a short someplace. I cleaned the battery connections with sandpaper. I have power at the starter and the fender solenoid. I should mention the origional starter was fine up to now. I had it bench tested and it blew the fuse on the machine. So I replaced it. How do I test/bypass the ingition switch?
 






take a screw driver and use it to jump the two big terminal bolts on the relay. Engine should turn Over weather the key is in or not but will only start up if the key is in.

Did you ground to the engine or to the frame?
 






I shorted a wire recently and it blew the big 50 amp fuse under the hood, on the left fender fuse block. When that happened I lost pretty much everything in the ignition system. It wouldn't allow the engine to crank or start.

Your description of the light fading immediately indicates a weak or loose connection. It won't allow any current to flow, which is why the light barely lights up and then quits. Have you tried using a jumper cable to bypass the ground wire from the battery to chassis, or jumper a good battery to your battery? Also I've seen battery cables go bad on the inside of the cable, but the exterior of the cable looked nearly perfect. I cut the cable open and found that it had completely corroded the wires at the point where they contact the lead battery post clamp. Also a common mistake is to clean the battery post and then forget the lead clamps on the wire that bolts to the battery. One more thing to remember is the other end of the ground cable. It might be loose or have a layer of rust under the washer/nut.
 






Clean battery connections, try a different (good) battery, check all the fuses under the hood.

Good Luck!
 






I replaced the positive battery cable. I guess it had a short. Now I get lights and gauges but not untill the key is in the on position. Turn the key to start and everything shuts off.
 






I replaced the positive battery cable. I guess it had a short. Now I get lights and gauges but not untill the key is in the on position. Turn the key to start and everything shuts off.

Ok, now that is what mine did when I blew that big 50 AMP fuse that sits inside the black fuse box located on the left fender under the hood. Its the furthest forward on the drivers side. I think it's called a "MAXI" fuse if you are trying to buy one. When you turn the key to "start" it turns off power to some of your things like the radio, fan, gauges, etc.
 






Replaced the negative cable and it starts right up. Both cables looked fine but are coroded inside the sheathing. No fuse ever blew. Thanks to everybody who helped. :salute: Remember: Allways disconnect the battery negative terminal before you service anything.
 






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