Lol it is tilted to match rear pinion angle as the other guy pointed out as well
No I get all that. I’m saying fluids. Clean anything you can sensor wise is what I’m saying. I’m not sure what the awd additive is for the viscous clutch but too much not enough ext can cause abnormal wear. So can metal from newer components. The bolts coming lose is probably a torque issue with the threads of the output shaft from t case. I assume that’s original. Could be deformed and or rusted out threads. Or bolt is being deformed in some way. Never had bolts back out like that. Seen caliper bolts due it but that’s typically a torquing issue.
Also yes I tried to call a truce and offered you a humility free way to see your wrong doings here. This ENTIRE issue is caused by your misunderstandings and lack of ability to see it. Sorry buddy. Happy trails then.
There is no viscous coupling “additive”. It’s a sealed unit. Nothing gets into the coupling.
I said the transfer case doesn’t tilt. You said it did. It’s not my fault you’re garbage about getting your point across. A proper or thoughtful response would have went something like “of course it doesn’t tilt, it’s mounted at an angle”.
Lmao you are now arguing tilt as opposed to angle. You sir can stop. Seriously looking bad. You also said that angle has nothing to do with axle angle and that the trans is never in line blah blah bs. I’m done with you. Yes. You keep digging a hole in everything you argue. Go back. Reread. I cover my based. This has been recommended for you but you keep trucking along putting that foot right in your mouth. Never said anything about front axle movement. You made that argument all up. I said it was mounted tilted as to allow rear to align with trans and have less angle on driveline under load. A premise that has been in the automotive industry since the 30’s. Chevy has some very informative information you can find when they first invented modern suspension and differentials. It explains the basics if you need a tune up. I said in my message you have great knowledge and that you are blinded by your inability to get out of your own way. And for the purpose of this thread. Yes my driveline seems to be the source of my noise. The joint has been almost entirely silent since post about mud. I will definitely inspect the joint at some point and for the sake of seeing a thread end... I’ll post what seems to happen. Best of luck with the bolts that seem to back out.
I see that we are not talking the same language. When I "do a service on the case" I rebuild it or repair it. What I understand you mean is to check fluids. I have never heard of an "awd additive" Can you expand on what that is? Some transfer cases do have a "viscous clutch" but not the BW4404.
What came out looked like gear oil so that is what went back in when I rebuilt it. Almost 5,000 miles on it. I took the front driveshaft out last night and enjoyed the quiet. I also drilled holes in the bolt heads for safety wire. Will get a new driveshaft from my Ford dealer, adjust the transmission crossbeam all the way up, and safety wire the bolts and see.
Factory fluid is Mercon (not v) the current fluid is Dextron III. You can also use the fluid made for some of the newer Gens, but it’s spendy. I’d definitely change it. I’m betting with a new shaft it won’t shake the bolts out.
Also, there’s zero sensors involved in the AWD.
Right. Missed that. No switch, no motor, no way to turn it on or off...
If you put in gear oil you may have messed up the clutch. The case does use a viscous clutch. Look it up. It’s also the main reason of failure. Did you change the coupler gear with rebuild. All awd cases have one. It’s what helps the front tires do the 5% less driving and not allow them to get eaten up. Most awd cases you either put in a slip additive or friction additive. Ford used the same clutch as earlier trans I suppose. This trans fluid is no friction and all detergent meaning to operate properly it needs to be clean. I’m sure even my boy brookes agrees with this. Or awd cars would crow hop everywhere they went.
And ok no additive. I can name 10 cases that do for this one that doesn’t. Most awd cases use it. Much like the posi rears because fluid along doesn’t have proper friction modifiers. Never stated to know anything about “this” case at all. We’re a few ideas to check as the approach to remedy is similar for almost and brand or platform. However there is a viscous clutch gear. Maybe address that issue as well as possible places to look. As for English. Here are some synonyms of tilt. Tell me where you think tilt means an action word? SYNONYMS. slope, list, camber, gradient, bank, slant, incline, pitch, dip, cant, bevel, angle, heel. Something can easily be fixed and have a tilt. It does have to articulate at all. It can. And can be used to describe something that CAN be moved, but must be to an angle. But to tilt it must not be flat. Thus at an angle. Making my statement of it having a tilt 100% acceptable. Smfh
i did a search too on the bolts. Many stated low torque to be issue. I wonder if the bolts are not soft enough. I can’t remember if you stated you used factory bolts or off brand. New bolts come with thread lock from Ford. Only other thing as some said the loctite and or nothing worked. Maybe used the anti rattle gel Ford says to use on caliper bolts do they don’t back out. Maybe worth a shot. I never had an issue with distorting threads and would recommend that if nothing else works. Distorted threads make a huge difference in tight bolt applications. Fords exhaust studs are distorted to prevent backing out. With out the distortion the stud can back out causing exhaust leaks. Most bolts Ford does this with they don’t produce for older vehicles so you must make it yourself.
Explain what you mean, please
Long extensions help as does a wobble extension at the socket. Learned this pulling transmissions. Using the long entensions, I could use a rachet on the top two bolts that otherwise you were on to with a box open wrench. I ensured it was on straight and threaded them in by hand till snug, then used the rachet till tight and switched to my beam torque wrench with an adapter from 1/2" to 3/8".
