Not bearing or brakes. Front end squeak. Right turn only.

[RoyKelly2]

By AWD you mean you have a V8?

no. AWD = All Wheel Drive ---- Al the time there is no switch and no motor on the transfer case

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’m well aware of what AWD is. If you have AWD you have a V8.

 

[RoyKelly2]

Doesn’t matter. 4x4 and AWD are exactly the same, except for the transfer cases. Nothing will change that angle. That angle has been the same since it was manufactured. You can drive it just fine without the shaft, it’ll just creep in park.

As mentioned above, you’re missing most of the bolts on that CV. Don’t drive it like that, or you risk throwing that shaft. Remove the driveshaft, or put the remaining bolt in.

The shaft is only a few months old? Hopefully you have the factory shaft still. The aftermarket remanufactured units never last. Get the factory one rebuilt with a complete weld in unit, not the cv that slides over the worn out splines on your current shaft.

Are you saying that the CV joint needs to be welded to the shaft? The one that was on the car when I bought it was not welded and I have never seen one that was.

When I look at other Explorers that angle is not so steep and I think that is why the CV joint goes out so fast

 

[CDW6212R]

Check the transmission mount also. As said, the drive shaft angles are not adjustable, they are fixed because both ends cannot move(front diff and TC). The transmission mount is a fairly weak design, given the age and the high weight of the trans and TC, the rubber of those mounts will loosen/break/crush etc. That might cause the TC to be down just slightly more than it should be, it shouldn't affect the CV there much at all.

That CV is made to handle the odd pinion angles, a quality shaft and CV joint there should last for 10+ years easily. It's most likely the shafts you have had in it were lower quality, or worn used units etc. There used to be no replacement choice, back in 2004, besides OEM. Now you have several low quality CV replacement kits to choose from, and I gather companies which weld a new joint onto an old shaft. The joint quality is the biggest factor, OEM is still the best, and any rare stronger/bigger aftermarket CV will be high dollar. It's best to try to take good care of the old OEM shafts.

 

[Mbrooks420]

They cut the shaft, and weld new splines on, and install a new CV joint.

 

[BenDT]

By AWD you mean you have a V8?

No I have a 98 sport with the 4.0 sohc awd. I don’t believe the 5.0 was an option for the sport. May be wrong on that.

 

[Mbrooks420]

No I have a 98 sport with the 4.0 sohc awd. I don’t believe the 5.0 was an option for the sport. May be wrong on that.

Then you don’t have AWD, you have automatic 4wd, and it will certainly have a switch and motor on the transfer case. No second gen v6 was ever offered with a full time AWD case.

 

[BenDT]

They cut the shaft, and weld new splines on, and install a new CV joint.

Personally never seen this. I believe this was a simple “press” on spline cv joint. Oddly enough I put soooo much mud on my under carriage I don’t get the sound. It’s probably about an inch thick (dry here and the clay is the only thing wet). Just a curious point to make. Only time this thing has been so quiet. Been super hot so I haven’t taken the front shaft off and may not for now since it is tight as when I do pull it I will do the u joints with new cv joint. Fighting an electric gremlin now that has most my time. Runs great but when hot 90 outside plus and my vehicle idles for over 2-3 min I go to go and poof. Nothing. Acting like no spark? Then catches after couple seconds and excelerates like crap Been so dry i know dust and sand have been getting around. My tps reads fine but I have been able to get it when it acts up. Got one reading after it was hot other day and readings did not go thru but I went from 0-WOT and didnt think I saw what I should have. Repeat and ok, but hmmmm, 10+ years since I did replace that. Clean iac, check filter, fix a/c clutch plug (thinking possible grounding issue affecting sensors on same grounding bar for ecu. Anyway I’ll report back when I get some wrench time. You ALL are awesome. Thanks for all the support

 

[BenDT]

Then you don’t have AWD, you have automatic 4wd, and it will certainly have a switch and motor on the transfer case. No second gen v6 was ever offered with a full time AWD case.

No. I have the awd. I have verified the tags on the t case. There is no 2wd. Simple AWD 4 high and 4 low. From the factory. .410 gears in all awd I believe

 

[BenDT]

Then you don’t have AWD, you have automatic 4wd, and it will certainly have a switch and motor on the transfer case. No second gen v6 was ever offered with a full time AWD case.

And when I’m wrong I will admit it. However I will say splitting some hairs on this one. YES there is an AWD tcase that is viscous coupler. And the one I have is shift motors. However with the inability to select 2wd and the speed of the front rear and input speeds being regulated by electronically controlled auto locking front drive shaft clutches the only argument about the difference of a true awd or this setup is the mechanical actuation via electronics and not a pressure reaction. All awd cases even allow for minimal but some front driveshaft play until the rear engages (or vise versa). BUT apple to apples I suppose I have an orange.

 

[CDW6212R]

And when I’m wrong I will admit it. However I will say splitting some hairs on this one. YES there is an AWD tcase that is viscous coupler. And the one I have is shift motors. However with the inability to select 2wd and the speed of the front rear and input speeds being regulated by electronically controlled auto locking front drive shaft clutches the only argument about the difference of a true awd or this setup is the mechanical actuation via electronics and not a pressure reaction. All awd cases even allow for minimal but some front driveshaft play until the rear engages (or vise versa). BUT apple to apples I suppose I have an orange.

We keep explaining this, and few people listen and learn. The transfer case you have is automatic 4WD, or A4WD, don't leave out the "4" in the abbreviation and assume it means all wheel drive. AWD is 100% all wheels driven, "ALL" the time. AWD has no switches, no shift motor, no gear selections, nothing, it's one speed all four wheels driven all the time.

Your truck with a V6, has either RWD/2WD and no dash switch, or it's A4WD and has the dash switch. The switch lets you select A4WD, or 4WD Hi, or 4WD Low, it's not AWD in any position. In A4WD, it runs in 2WD always until it senses a speed difference of the front drive shaft, and then it electrically engages the front shaft, making it 4WD as long as it senses the speed difference.

Yes the later cars are still called AWD, but that is wrong by the OEM's, they are abusing the words and abbreviation. They aren't going to admit that, or change it, but that does not change the physics facts. The late model "AWD" vehicles are running in 2WD until sensors tell it to engage the other two wheels. The 5th gens run in FWD until they select by sensors, to engage the rear wheels. The newest models have gone back to basically RWD until they sense slip, and go to 4WD by engaging the front wheels.

It's a long subject, the same facts apply, the first sentences I posted just now.

 

[RoyKelly2]

Personally never seen this. I believe this was a simple “press” on spline cv joint. Oddly enough I put soooo much mud on my under carriage I don’t get the sound. It’s probably about an inch thick (dry here and the clay is the only thing wet). Just a curious point to make. Only time this thing has been so quiet. Been super hot so I haven’t taken the front shaft off and may not for now since it is tight as when I do pull it I will do the u joints with new cv joint. Fighting an electric gremlin now that has most my time. Runs great but when hot 90 outside plus and my vehicle idles for over 2-3 min I go to go and poof. Nothing. Acting like no spark? Then catches after couple seconds and excelerates like crap Been so dry i know dust and sand have been getting around. My tps reads fine but I have been able to get it when it acts up. Got one reading after it was hot other day and readings did not go thru but I went from 0-WOT and didnt think I saw what I should have. Repeat and ok, but hmmmm, 10+ years since I did replace that. Clean iac, check filter, fix a/c clutch plug (thinking possible grounding issue affecting sensors on same grounding bar for ecu. Anyway I’ll report back when I get some wrench time. You ALL are awesome. Thanks for all the support

I have not either, even the new OEM shaft I got from the Ford Dealer only lasted about 5.000 miles and had a CV joint held on with a c-Clip just like this from Detroit Axle REAR CV JOINT Repair Kit Front Drive Shaft for Ford Explorer Ranger B4000 4x4

 

[RoyKelly2]

Check the transmission mount also. As said, the drive shaft angles are not adjustable, they are fixed because both ends cannot move(front diff and TC). The transmission mount is a fairly weak design, given the age and the high weight of the trans and TC, the rubber of those mounts will loosen/break/crush etc. That might cause the TC to be down just slightly more than it should be, it shouldn't affect the CV there much at all.

That CV is made to handle the odd pinion angles, a quality shaft and CV joint there should last for 10+ years easily. It's most likely the shafts you have had in it were lower quality, or worn used units etc. There used to be no replacement choice, back in 2004, besides OEM. Now you have several low quality CV replacement kits to choose from, and I gather companies which weld a new joint onto an old shaft. The joint quality is the biggest factor, OEM is still the best, and any rare stronger/bigger aftermarket CV will be high dollar. It's best to try to take good care of the old OEM shafts.

I put in a new rear mount and then started having the problem with CV joints on the driveshaft going out.

When I get a new front driveshaft from Ford parts is it OEM or aftermarket?

 

[CDW6212R]

I have not either, even the new OEM shaft I got from the Ford Dealer only lasted about 5.000 miles and had a CV joint held on with a c-Clip just like this from Detroit Axle REAR CV JOINT Repair Kit Front Drive Shaft for Ford Explorer Ranger B4000 4x4

Now there's a low quality part. If I made a list of the worst brands, Detroit Axle would be at the top of that list.

 

[CDW6212R]

I put in a new rear mount and then started having the problem with CV joints on the driveshaft going out.

When I get a new front driveshaft from Ford parts is it OEM or aftermarket?

It sounds like there's some yet undiscovered problem with your truck, to have a front driveshaft fail that fast, and the trans mount. I suggest finding a very good mechanic, even a dealer if you trust them, to go over that front section and be sure that everything is securely mounted. There are mounts with bushings holding the front differential onto the frame, like the trans mount, and the engine mounts etc. Something sounds odd to have those failures close together and quickly more than once.

 

[RoyKelly2]

It sounds like there's some yet undiscovered problem with your truck, to have a front driveshaft fail that fast, and the trans mount. I suggest finding a very good mechanic, even a dealer if you trust them, to go over that front section and be sure that everything is securely mounted. There are mounts with bushings holding the front differential onto the frame, like the trans mount, and the engine mounts etc. Something sounds odd to have those failures close together and quickly more than once.

I agree. I have replaced the front differential mounts, the engine mounts, the rear trans mount, and the rear spring shackles chasing a thump when accelerating or going up hills (See my posts in 97 AWD, Bang/Clunk under acceleration or gear shift from front end. HELP!). I have had it looked at by three mechanics and we all think that angle is too steep. Most of the parts came from fordparts.com and were delevered to my local dealer

 

[CDW6212R]

I agree. I have replaced the front differential mounts, the engine mounts, the rear trans mount, and the rear spring shackles chasing a thump when accelerating or going up hills (See my posts in 97 AWD, Bang/Clunk under acceleration or gear shift from front end. HELP!). I have had it looked at by three mechanics and we all think that angle is too steep. Most of the parts came from fordparts.com and were delevered to my local dealer

I wonder if something is "bent" figuratively. I looked at the front mounting bracket for the diff, for a long time, thinking of how to possibly raise it up(to lower the truck more). I stopped when I decided the pinion angle would be made worse, and it seems fine in stock form.

Have you compared your truck to any other 2nd gen Explorer, the front drive shaft etc?

 

[Mbrooks420]

If the shaft isn’t factory, are you sure you got the right one? There are two lengths, although I think you’d pull the CV apart putting the shorter one in.

 

[RoyKelly2]

I wonder if something is "bent" figuratively. I looked at the front mounting bracket for the diff, for a long time, thinking of how to possibly raise it up(to lower the truck more). I stopped when I decided the pinion angle would be made worse, and it seems fine in stock form.

Have you compared your truck to any other 2nd gen Explorer, the front drive shaft etc?

Se my reply above Yesterday at 8:51 AM

 

[CDW6212R]

With the CV missing bolts, I also wonder if it even got seated properly in the TC pocket. If there was debris or anything there which didn't let the shaft end seat perfectly, that would force the CV end to constantly rotate out of alignment. That would increase the wear by a massive amount.

Here is what mine looked like... and still has the sharp angle. I have an adjustable rear cross member. will try adjusting that and see if my CV joint angle gets better

View attachment 330895

I looked at the previous picture on the last page, and it does look like it's not seated straight. I'd get back to the TC mounting pocket and look for any debris or damage there which could stop the CV shaft from seating into it properly. That shaft angle pictured should not be the problem.