Not sure what sound this is...

[35Remmy]

Yes...$3,600 is a great price for that truck.

I IMMEDIATELY thought ABS system/sensor fault. Which is NOT a big deal.

CPS (camshaft position sensor) is always expensive.

Jen, mind you that vehicle repairs are only going to get MUCH MUUCHH more expensive...FAST.

There is a lawsuit in court right now between the car manufacturers and companies that manufacture scanning equipment (like the scanners that Pep Boys or Advance, etc, use that scan your check engine light codes or the ones we can buy as consumers).

The car manufacturers claim that these codes are THEIR "property" and by making them public is a violation of "copyright" if you will.

If and WHEN they win, which they will, trust me, the ONLY place to get your vehicle serviced will be at the dealership.

In the next 20 years private garages will seem like a thing of the past, because MOST garages cannot afford the equipment needed to keep up with modern vehicles.

Want to open up a body shop? GOOD LUCK. It is almost IMPOSSIBLE to open up a new body shop with the amount of EPA regulations in effect. You need MILLIONS. They, too, will soon be a thing of the past.

Best thing I can advise the world would be to get yourself a college education (at LEAST a 4 year bachelor's degree, 2 year associates degrees are WORTHLESS!!!) if you haven't yet so you have the income to maintain a vehicle that isn't 15 or 20 years old!!!

Pretty soon, private garages will stipulate that "we can only service vehicles 2008 and older".

 

[Jenno]

Well bad news......

We took the truck to the dealership to get a state/emissions inspection. They found so many things wrong. It will cost us $1700 to get these things fixed. $800 to just pass the inspection.

One thing was mention the Ball Joint needs replaced. My hubby is getting a list of what needs to be repaired.....I'm so frustrated and upset....But $1700....damn

 

[ThePhoenix]

look at it this way...your ball joints will be new again...eventually we all have ball joint problems...as I do now. shop around and you can get it done fairly cheap or do it yourself

 

[Jenno]

Oh we are gonna shop around. We're gonna get the list, shop around and or see if my brother in law can do any of it (he's a diesel truck mechanic). We figured we would save around 500-600 in labor alone. One part which they said is fairly easy will alone take 3 hours...

Either way, it will get done. Just think of how shocked we are. We just layed out 1K last week, now another 1700. I know not to expect alot for a old used truck....

look at it this way...your ball joints will be new again...eventually we all have ball joint problems...as I do now. shop around and you can get it done fairly cheap or do it yourself

 

[Evil Eye]

Sorry to hear about your ordeal. Good luck in getting your truck fixed. BTW, where are you from? Maybe someone can help you out by lending a hand.

 

[Jenno]

Thanks

Here is the list of what needs to be done:

Master Cylin $334
CC Deactivation Switch $35
Lf Brake Hose $140
RH Lower Balljoint $304
LH Lower Balljoint $280
Recommend : Brake Booster $395
Brake Fluid Flush $122

Alot huh?

 

[MadExplorer93]

Thanks

Here is the list of what needs to be done:

Master Cylin $334
CC Deactivation Switch $35
Lf Brake Hose $140
RH Lower Balljoint $304
LH Lower Balljoint $280
Recommend : Brake Booster $395
Brake Fluid Flush $122

Alot huh?

If i were you i would take it to a mechanic that you TRUST and have a second opinion done as FORD sometimes (lets see ... wants to screw you) and will at times replace things they think is bad, but maybe not.

Now i am not there to see it or drive it so i don't want to try to sound like i am misleading you, but make sure that stuff is all bad is all i am saying.

Master Cylinder and brake hose and booster you can do yourself, if you know what your doing as you have to bleed the brakes after and make sure there is no AIR lock in the master cylinder otherwise you will have no fluid to certain brakes or all of them.

Brake flush.. hell i never ever done in my entire 15 years or so working on my vehicles... ... not saying it ain't a bad thing to do, but the only reason they want to do it is if there is a contamination in the old fluid, then a flush will flush it out... i just bleed the brakes until a nice clean brake fluid comes out of the bleeding process.

So much of these items if you know how to do them and properly as it is not just turning a wrench and replace, there is certain procedures like i mentioned about to make sure of, otherwise you can end up not stopping if not done right.

CC deactivation switch i do believe that is the Cruise Control Deactivation Switch, well if ya not need crusie control .... Don't worry about it for now and don't try and use CC until its fixed.

As for balljoints you can do yourself if you have proper tools and knowledge to do so.

If your husband is good at fixing things and you want help and what tools to borrow from a store or buy from a store, just post away.

Help is always here to do all of this stuff you have listed.

But yes if you can get someone to do it for a good price. Then go and do it all.

 

[Evil Eye]

Thanks

Here is the list of what needs to be done:

Master Cylin $334
CC Deactivation Switch $35
Lf Brake Hose $140
RH Lower Balljoint $304
LH Lower Balljoint $280
Recommend : Brake Booster $395
Brake Fluid Flush $122

Alot huh?

What did they say was wrong with your brakes? Booster and master cylinder??? I agree something sounds a little off. Why are they only suggesting the LF brake hose? If there is a way for pressure to bleed off (or allow air into the line) it could explain a bit of your braking problem.

 

[Jenno]

Master Cylinder but recommend getting the booster done. They didn't say the booster was necessary. I have no clue why the LF...is there an RF?

What gets me is this. They said the CC switch needs replaced in order to pass inspection but the ball joints don't? How is that?

We really have no one we can trust for a second opinion...and we are not really sure if my brother in law can do these things...we might have to just suck it up..it's a hard swallow......A VERY hard thing to swallow....

What did they say was wrong with your brakes? Booster and master cylinder??? I agree something sounds a little off. Why are they only suggesting the LF brake hose? If there is a way for pressure to bleed off (or allow air into the line) it could explain a bit of your braking problem.

 

[MadExplorer93]

Master Cylinder but recommend getting the booster done. They didn't say the booster was necessary. I have no clue why the LF...is there an RF?

What gets me is this. They said the CC switch needs replaced in order to pass inspection but the ball joints don't? How is that?

We really have no one we can trust for a second opinion...and we are not really sure if my brother in law can do these things...we might have to just suck it up..it's a hard swallow......A VERY hard thing to swallow....

LF = Left front hose
RF = Right front hose

There is two lines one for left side front and one for right side front, there is also RF and RL samething only = REAR Left or Right as there is two lines one for left rear and one for right rear.

That is weird for inspection CC, but not ball joints,.... umm maybe cause its a emisson inspection and not a mechanical inspection. I am not sure as to what is needed for emissions, but heck ball joints should be done if need to be anyway.

Well it maybe a hard thing to swallow, but if ya can do it, then do it and be done with it. Look at it this way at least it is done and you know its new then and should last a while longer now.

Drive it for a few years or so to get your monies worth and then sell it or keep for loner as they are good vehicles, it just seems you got one that was not maintained properly by previous owner and now its failing on you.

 

[Jenno]

Thanks Mad, I appreciate it.

We are going to try to get a few second opinions first before we jump right into it. More then likely we will get it all fixed (have no choice really), but hopefully finding someone a little cheaper and getting what HAS to be done. Like the flush....

So...the saga continues, lol. I love this truck. It's a beauty. Seems he kept up only on oil changes and such and not other things....the inside is spotless, not a wrinkle in the leather, or a scratch on the outside....It's even my color, lol

LF = Left front hose
RF = Right front hose

There is two lines one for left side front and one for right side front, there is also RF and RL samething only = REAR Left or Right as there is two lines one for left rear and one for right rear.

That is weird for inspection CC, but not ball joints,.... umm maybe cause its a emisson inspection and not a mechanical inspection. I am not sure as to what is needed for emissions, but heck ball joints should be done if need to be anyway.

Well it maybe a hard thing to swallow, but if ya can do it, then do it and be done with it. Look at it this way at least it is done and you know its new then and should last a while longer now.

Drive it for a few years or so to get your monies worth and then sell it or keep for loner as they are good vehicles, it just seems you got one that was not maintained properly by previous owner and now its failing on you.

 

[Jenno]

Minor update

We bought the parts ourself and having my brother in law's 18 wheeler garage do the work. Gonna save me about 800 bucks. So relieved. Hopefully this will be the last of the work...

 

[BWilliams]

Interesting, with that Cruise Control switch... is the 1997 included in the recall for the switches that overheat and cause fires? If so, you shouldn't have to pay anything, the dealer should replace the switch for free.

 

[Jenno]

Interesting....

Will they still cover the recall if it's not been fixed within a certain time frame?

I did a search on recalls and there a few of em I wonder if they have been done or not....

 

[MadExplorer93]

Interesting....

Will they still cover the recall if it's not been fixed within a certain time frame?

I did a search on recalls and there a few of em I wonder if they have been done or not....

As far as i know some TSB's are for a limited time only while others are not, call FORD DealerShip up and ask them about it for that part.

 

[Evil Eye]

As far as i know some TSB's are for a limited time only while others are not, call FORD DealerShip up and ask them about it for that part.

Yes, any of the safety recalls are valid for the life of the vehicle. BTW, TSB's are not recall notices and do not contain recall information. You may get some recall information such as: "part abc which has been replaced by part xyz due to recall 1234" but it will not (usually) specify the duration of the recall, the conditions under which the recall is applicable, etc. Recalls are public information; TSB's are the property of Ford, so may be a bit more difficult to come by. Good luck!