OBX Header Install complete - only issue needing help on

[MuscleJunkie]

So today the OBX header install was completed. Everything seems fine with one exception that on of the driver's side tubes is vibrating against the brake booster during aggressive driving.

There is only about between 1/8" and 1/4" gap between this particular pipe and the brake booster and I'm guessing that when the engine is torquing/vibrating that is enough to close the gap and cause the intermittent vibration noise.

Any ideas.

Photo below

 

[MuscleJunkie]

You can barely just see on the pipe where it was hitting

 

[Dono]

I'd clearance the brake booster in that spot. I have clearanced mine.

 

[Highflow50]

I have the same headers and have a much bigger gap. I did wrap the brake booster with some of that heat reflecting material.

 

[98 MERC]

That should of been taken care of during install.Either lightly smash that part of the booster or lightly smash the pipe.Maybe you could replace your old worn out motor mounts with new one's and have less flex ? Maybe wrap that part of the header with header wrap a few times as a cushion ?

 

[98 MERC]

MAYBE have the shop heat that pipe up with a torch and slightly bend it back more ?

 

[MuscleJunkie]

Any photos of the gap you have in the same spot. It only vibrates sometimes. Maybe as you said, the motor mounts are allowing too much flex.

 

[Highflow50]

Check the motor mounts or your vehicle. I'll take some pictures of my gap for you tomorrow.

 

[CDW6212R]

That is tight. I would loosen the motor mounts(and trans), along with the brake booster bolts, and try to move the engine forward, and booster away too. There will be a little play in the mounting holes that might gain you 1/8" or close to it.

 

[MuscleJunkie]

That is tight. I would loosen the motor mounts(and trans), along with the brake booster bolts, and try to move the engine forward, and booster away too. There will be a little play in the mounting holes that might gain you 1/8" or close to it.

Thanks. What do you think about getting new motor mounts? Any particular I should consider? OEM stock or is there something upgraded that would be better...and why?

Thanks again

 

[SWIGIN]

OEM is rubber, I'd want polyurethane if I had your issue. I would assume that some 94-95 Mustang motor mounts would fit if they don't make them specifically for Explorers.

 

[MuscleJunkie]

I'm reading it is a difficult job to replace the motor mounts on a 2000 Explorer?

 

[CDW6212R]

I'd decide on new motor mounts based on how much the engine moves. If you can tell that it does move more than normal or a new mount, then change them. Usually it isn't going to be easy to tell and likely it's not abnormal. If you have to replace them, I think almost any decent brand will be fine. There aren't any non OEM style mounts though, no urethane etc.

Where that booster is should not be a clearance issue though. The engine will be trying to rotate up and to the left(right side), thus away from the booster or parallel to it. That makes you think maybe the mounts are a bit worn and are allowing too much movement towards the booster.

 

[MuscleJunkie]

I'd decide on new motor mounts based on how much the engine moves. If you can tell that it does move more than normal or a new mount, then change them. Usually it isn't going to be easy to tell and likely it's not abnormal. If you have to replace them, I think almost any decent brand will be fine. There aren't any non OEM style mounts though, no urethane etc.

Where that booster is should not be a clearance issue though. The engine will be trying to rotate up and to the left(right side), thus away from the booster or parallel to it. That makes you think maybe the mounts are a bit worn and are allowing too much movement towards the booster.

If you look on the 2nd pic- you can see a reddish spot just below the weld. That is where it is contacting the booster. It doesn't do it all of the time - mostly where revving hard and high and after they have warmed up. It's almost that perhaps the engine is moving a bit during hard manuvers and the pipe of that header is getting some vibrating motion to it from the high velocity gasses going through it which is causing it to vibrate (almost in an oscillating pattern) against the booster.

 

[98 MERC]

Sounding more and more like worn dry rotted motor mounts.I mean lets be real.How good is a piece of rubber going to be thats like 20 years old in a engine bay ?

 

[CDW6212R]

Sounding more and more like worn dry rotted motor mounts.I mean lets be real.How good is a piece of rubber going to be thats like 20 years old in a engine bay ?

Agreed about the age, it is a good idea to replace all wear and rubber parts at this age.

If that reddish spot is where the contact is at, that's maybe 3/8" from where it would touch the booster above there. That would mean the engine is moving too much, it'd be moving up and to the right to reach that spot on the booster.

If you are sure that the spots touching aren't directly next to each other, as it seem to be pictured, change the mounts for sure. That may be the best answer. I'd also loosen the two MC bolts and see if the booster will pull left towards the fender a bit.

 

[oddball101]

Any luck? I have a set on the way as well with a similar 2000/yr application. Also, on your other issue with the passsnger side fitment, was lifting that side of the motor as described in other writeups not applicable?

 

[MuscleJunkie]

Any luck? I have a set on the way as well with a similar 2000/yr application. Also, on your other issue with the passsnger side fitment, was lifting that side of the motor as described in other writeups not applicable?

Which writeups describe this? Still working through a couple issues.

Anybody have recommendations on a better set of wires (using original motorcraft) that can handle the heat better. I had to remove some of the metal on the ends and put heat socks but thinking there might be an even better solution.

 

[shucker1]

You may want to search threads by users @vroomzoomboom or @Dono .

Those guys have done some really serious modifications and may have a solution to the spark plug wire issue.

 

[Dono]

ACCEL Extreme 9000 Ceramic Spark Plug Wire Sets 9002C with Kingsborne edis ends
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/5-0-spark-plug-wires.403903/

This is the solution. It works.