OHV Engine Leaking Oil - Help Me

[AndreaBR]

I always read the forum repair tips.
Thank you all for always helping the needy.
I live in a country with few Ford Explorer and no technical assistance.
Have a problem that I can not solve. Oil leakage at the rear of the engine.
The mechanic said he needs to replace the crankshaft seal.
But he has never changed the seal of the Ford OHV 4.0 engine and does not know if it is better to remove the transmission or the engine.
So I ask,
Which one is the easiest?
What do you advise?
Remove the automatic transmission or the engine?
Do I use an old stock OEM stamp (20 years old) or use a Fel-Plo or Victor Reinz stamp?
Do I need to buy a gearbox seal or a torque converter seal?
I think I better buy all the parts I might need.
I'm going to have to import all the pieces and it's better to have enough.
Thank you for your help
1997 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0 OHV

 

[poker4me007]

You don't say if it's 2 or 4wd. Take out the transmission, and replace real main seal and torque converter seal.
An old stock seal should be okay if it's been sealed and it good condition or go felpro.

 

[974X4BLACKSPORT]

When you do replace the rear main oil seal, get the replacement one that has the sleeve for the new seal to ride against on the crankshaft or you will be leaking again.
My 97' also has this problem, actually both the engine rear main oil seal, and the transmission front pump seal are leaking, been debating with myself on how to do this (remover engine or remove transmission), since it is 4WD, I will probably remove the engine, this will give me a chance to change any other gaskets that my start to leak, and also inspect the freeze plugs, and also clean and repaint the engine block.
It is actually not that hard to remove the engine, so long as a good lifting device is used.
A transmission can be lowered out of a vehicle and re-installed without a jack if your good with 2x4's, and have patience. I just hate being under the vehicle and on my back!

 

[koda2000]

Replace the engine rear main seal (watch youtube videos on how on-line) and also replace the torque converter seal. I'd go with Felpro replacements.

I'd pull the transmission rather than the engine (2WD or 4WD) because it's gotta be less work that removing the engine. There's only a few bolts holding the engine in, but there's a ton of electrical connectors, fluid and vacuum lines related to the engine (and some bolts/studs may break). Getting them wrong during engine re-installation can mean a host of new issues.

 

[Turdle]

Not mentioned yet but be sure to replace the PCV valve with an OEM unit. Poor crankcase ventilation causes pressure in the crankcase which might help blow out seals.
I would also run a compression check on all cylinders at this time. Compression ring blow by will often show as a seal leak.

This will help determine if the engine needs to come out or not.

 

[410Fortune]

First make SURE the leak is not coming from the oil filter mount. There is an O ring between the engine oil filter adapter and the engine block. They dry up and leak alot of oil, it can look like a rear main seal leak. Also make sure it is not the oil pan or the valve covers as the source of your leak before you go dropping the transmission.

Much easier to drop the transmission in my opinion UNLESS the engine also has several other leaks, like the oil pan and timing cover because you can re seal all of the gasket if the engine is out.

 

[lobo411]

How much oil are we talking about? It has to be a lot to be worth pulling the engine IMO. When you mess around with old cars, you have a very good chance of breaking more things than you end up fixing.

 

[AndreaBR]

You don't say if it's 2 or 4wd. Take out the transmission, and replace real main seal and torque converter seal.
An old stock seal should be okay if it's been sealed and it good condition or go felpro.

Hi
4wd.
Can you tell me the part number of the torque converter seal? I can not find.

 

[AndreaBR]

When you do replace the rear main oil seal, get the replacement one that has the sleeve for the new seal to ride against on the crankshaft or you will be leaking again.
My 97' also has this problem, actually both the engine rear main oil seal, and the transmission front pump seal are leaking, been debating with myself on how to do this (remover engine or remove transmission), since it is 4WD, I will probably remove the engine, this will give me a chance to change any other gaskets that my start to leak, and also inspect the freeze plugs, and also clean and repaint the engine block.
It is actually not that hard to remove the engine, so long as a good lifting device is used.
A transmission can be lowered out of a vehicle and re-installed without a jack if your good with 2x4's, and have patience. I just hate being under the vehicle and on my back!

What does it mean: get the replacement one that has the sleeve for the new seal to ride against the crankshaft or will you be leaking again?
Sorry I did not get it and it can be an important information.

 

[AndreaBR]

Replace the engine rear main seal (watch youtube videos on how on-line) and also replace the torque converter seal. I'd go with Felpro replacements.

I'd pull the transmission rather than the engine (2WD or 4WD) because it's gotta be less work that removing the engine. There's only a few bolts holding the engine in, but there's a ton of electrical connectors, fluid and vacuum lines related to the engine (and some bolts/studs may break). Getting them wrong during engine re-installation can mean a host of new issues.

Yes, I'm afraid to buy an OEM seal manufactured 20 years ago. Is there no update for this seal?

 

[AndreaBR]

Not mentioned yet but be sure to replace the PCV valve with an OEM unit. Poor crankcase ventilation causes pressure in the crankcase which might help blow out seals.
I would also run a compression check on all cylinders at this time. Compression ring blow by will often show as a seal leak.

This will help determine if the engine needs to come out or not.

I myself will check and replace the PCV and I will ask the mechanic to test the compression of all cylinders

 

[AndreaBR]

First make SURE the leak is not coming from the oil filter mount. There is an O ring between the engine oil filter adapter and the engine block. They dry up and leak alot of oil, it can look like a rear main seal leak. Also make sure it is not the oil pan or the valve covers as the source of your leak before you go dropping the transmission.

Much easier to drop the transmission in my opinion UNLESS the engine also has several other leaks, like the oil pan and timing cover because you can re seal all of the gasket if the engine is out.

The oil is coming out of the rear of the engine, just above the transmission. Everything indicates that it is the seal of the crankshaft. It is the only place that leaks oil. There are no other leaks.

 

[AndreaBR]

How much oil are we talking about? It has to be a lot to be worth pulling the engine IMO. When you mess around with old cars, you have a very good chance of breaking more things than you end up fixing.

Every day the garage floor gets dirty with oil. It is a small but constant amount

 

[donalds]

Ford's are like dogs they mark their spots.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...l+v6+sohc,1119675,engine,crankshaft+seal,5604

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...5,transmission-automatic,fluid+pump+seal,8004

 

[lobo411]

Every day the garage floor gets dirty with oil. It is a small but constant amount

I would just live with that leak and put some cardboard down in the garage. Maybe tighten up the valve covers, maybe make sure you don't have a lower intake manifold leak (I had one that leaked oil from the rear valley, which then dripped down the bell housing in exactly the right spot to LOOK like a rear main leak).

There are probably horror-story threads on this board where people have replaced their rear main seal, only to have it leak a lot more than before. If it's not done perfectly right, you can end up worse than you are now.

 

[koda2000]

I would just live with that leak and put some cardboard down in the garage. Maybe tighten up the valve covers, maybe make sure you don't have a lower intake manifold leak (I had one that leaked oil from the rear valley, which then dripped down the bell housing in exactly the right spot to LOOK like a rear main leak).

There are probably horror-story threads on this board where people have replaced their rear main seal, only to have it leak a lot more than before. If it's not done perfectly right, you can end up worse than you are now.

I agree, if it's just a few drops of oil on the garage floor it's not worth the expense of replacing the seal. De-grease the engine and make sure it's not the intake or valve cover gaskets (or oil filter O-ring) that's actually leaking. These things can can be repaired much more easily/inexpensively than removing the engine or transmission and there's no guaranty you'll be leak-free afterwards. Get yourself a drip pan for your garage to keep the floor clean.

A trick to help determine exactly where the oil is leaking from (once the engine is clean) is to apply a powered spray deodorant on suspected areas to make the leak easier to spot.

 

[239]

I always read the forum repair tips.
Thank you all for always helping the needy.
I live in a country with few Ford Explorer and no technical assistance.
Have a problem that I can not solve. Oil leakage at the rear of the engine.
The mechanic said he needs to replace the crankshaft seal.
But he has never changed the seal of the Ford OHV 4.0 engine and does not know if it is better to remove the transmission or the engine.
So I ask,
Which one is the easiest?
What do you advise?
Remove the automatic transmission or the engine?
Do I use an old stock OEM stamp (20 years old) or use a Fel-Plo or Victor Reinz stamp?
Do I need to buy a gearbox seal or a torque converter seal?
I think I better buy all the parts I might need.
I'm going to have to import all the pieces and it's better to have enough.
Thank you for your help
1997 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0 OHV

I had mine replaced back in 2013 and I’m sure it’s leaking again. So definitely not worth it for a few drops. Part of the exhaust had to be unbolted too and I’ve had a bad exhaust vibration since then that I can’t fix. So eventually I’m just going to replace the exhaust from the manifolds to the back. I’d live with it and just keep an eye on the oil level.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

The oil is coming out of the rear of the engine, just above the transmission. Everything indicates that it is the seal of the crankshaft. It is the only place that leaks oil. There are no other leaks.

There's a camshaft position syncronizer that is located above the transmission bellhousing near the center of the engine. If it's seal leaks, the oil will drip downward and mimic a crankshaft seal leak. It's hard to see in that area at the rear of the engine, but a flashlight and mirror helps.

 

[gmanpaint]

A shop can drop the trans in an hour, if the exhaust doesn't interfere, or needs bolts cut, torched, etc...

I have read here on this forum, that we should only use the motorcraft main seal, because it is made specifically for this crankshaft, with a special sleeve. After markets fail, and leak. I have done this 3 times now and need to do it again. Wish I read that info a long time ago. I even spent the cash on the main seal install tool, to make sure it went in properly.

I have dropped my trans so many times in the driveway, I can do it alone in a couple hours, on my back.

The advice on the other possible leak areas is sound. The valve covers, intake gasket, and cmp can all mimic a main seal leak. Degreaser, power wash, and inspect as best you can, before making a choice of action.

Best of luck.