Oil viscosity and engine sound

[O.Madsen]

By the way..

Ran an injector cleaner through the engine going there..

And an "engine cleaner" on the way back..

.. I dont think this has been done before. The idle has never really been bad, but it runs like a champ and more smooth now.

I cant go "87" on the fuel here in europe. The lowest octane available is 95 here in spain. So i run that. But i was thinking that the might be some buildup inside the engine, since the higher octane.. Anyways. Its done and it seems to make it run a bit smoother..

 

[jlsparky7]

Ran an injector cleaner through the engine going there..

And an "engine cleaner" on the way back..

.. I dont think this has been done before. The idle has never really been bad, but it runs like a champ and more smooth now.

I cant go "87" on the fuel here in europe. The lowest octane available is 95 here in spain. So i run that. But i was thinking that the might be some buildup inside the engine, since the higher octane.. Anyways. Its done and it seems to make it run a bit smoother..

I figured the engine cleaner would help. Hope your trip goes well.

 

[O.Madsen]

It went fine..



The trip was fine. The truck runs like a champ... But the engine cleaner was just to do some regular "maintenance" or what you would call it. As the octane i run is so much higher than what the engine is supposed to run, i guess it would only do some good..

I have my emissions test coming up next month. I want it all to be fine before that. Im ordering a new fuel filter as well. I cant see in the papers from the previous owner if this has been changed at some point. So i will just change it, so i know its alright...

Im going for the oilchange after work today. I will post the result later tonight.. Im exited to see whats to blame for my annoying ticking upon warm engine startups..

 

[jlsparky7]

The trip was fine. The truck runs like a champ... But the engine cleaner was just to do some regular "maintenance" or what you would call it. As the octane i run is so much higher than what the engine is supposed to run, i guess it would only do some good..

I have my emissions test coming up next month. I want it all to be fine before that. Im ordering a new fuel filter as well. I cant see in the papers from the previous owner if this has been changed at some point. So i will just change it, so i know its alright...

Im going for the oilchange after work today. I will post the result later tonight.. Im exited to see whats to blame for my annoying ticking upon warm engine startups..

Happy to hear the truck ran well and the trip went safely.

Thats weird that you only have higher octane fuel to run over there. I dont know how you are supposed to pass emissions when you cant get the recommended fuel for your vehicle.

Check out www.rockauto.com they ship internationally
(everywhere with the exception of Antarctica I believe). Cheap prices, thats for sure. There is also a 5% discount code in the vendors section. Check it out.

 

[O.Madsen]

Changed the oil.. and it did the trick

I tested intensively all night long. Starting it up with 10/20/30 min intervals.. Where it before with no exception has been ticking extensively.

And i get NO ticking whatsoever.. Just like i was before the 5w50 was put in.

Since it has done it every single time i have started it warm since i got the "wrong" oil in and it does not do this now, i can only assume that this actually WAS the problem.. the viscosity of the oil when warm.. I am convinced this has fixed it. Otherwise i would have heard it, for sure.

It goes again a lot of things i believe and thought. I seriously did not believe this would help. And i was think more the filter.. (i will change that anyways.. But now im not stressed about it)

I dont want to say who is right or wrong here in the discussions in the thread. And i will not go as far as saying never to use a w50 oil in the engine.

All i know is that mine sounds as good as it did before. And im happy with that.

Check out www.rockauto.com they ship internationally
(everywhere with the exception of Antarctica I believe). Cheap prices, thats for sure. There is also a 5% discount code in the vendors section. Check it out.

Thanks a lot for the link. Its already saved in my favourites.
Now i can concentrate on the more fun things i want to do with this vehicle..


Have a nice day y´all!

Ole

 

[CDW6212R]

Thanks for the update, hopefully that will last for you for many years to come.

 

[jlsparky7]

Thanks for the update. Glad everything went well and truck is running tip top again.

 

[O.Madsen]

It will run as long as i want it to..

Thanks for the update, hopefully that will last for you for many years to come.

If youre willing to pour money in it, i guess it can last forever...

Thanks guys.

Now i have returned to figure out my plans for this truck. Its not much i want to do actually. But i want to do it all by myself. Even the new paint. Since its a vehicle of hobby and a "tool"for having a good time and exploring my skills, i cant wait to start playing.... :

By the way. Here is the X with my Mrs. The day i brought it home... I really do hate that color..

http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt267/PutoDiablo/Explorer.jpg

Sorry for the link. I read about inserting the images in the posts, but i have forgot it again..... :

Ole

 

[SCB2525]

Xw-50 really is thick for these engines. Especially with a fair number of miles, all you're doing is making the oil pump work harder. A thicker oil may seem better for protection but really you're limiting flow in tight clearances which actually is a detriment. 40 and 50 weights are used in older/some very cheap engines because they do not have as tight of clearances. You're also going to cause a dip in fuel economy.

I've got a 96 with the OHV 4.0 with 178k. I've used 5w-30 and 10w-30 (there isn't too much of a difference in a temperate climate) since I've had it and it runs like a top. Never burns oil. And trust me, I do not baby it when it comes to driving.

My recommendation: stick with your choice of 0/5/10W-30 and you're engine will outlast everything around it while giving you the best drivability and fuel economy. If you use Mobil 1 in particular and you still want a thicker oil, a good compromise would be 0W-40 especially considering Mobil 1 oils are on the thin side of their viscosity ratings (there is a range of true viscosity within which an oil can be certified as xW-20, xW-30, etc. Think of it this way; if true viscosities were extrapolated as such, one brand might be a xW-28 while another might be an xW-33, but both fall within the range to be classified as xW-30)

 

[nitro71]

I want bikini pics of the missus in front of the explorer!

 

[jlsparky7]

Xw-50 really is thick for these engines. Especially with a fair number of miles, all you're doing is making the oil pump work harder. A thicker oil may seem better for protection but really you're limiting flow in tight clearances which actually is a detriment. 40 and 50 weights are used in older/some very cheap engines because they do not have as tight of clearances. You're also going to cause a dip in fuel economy.

I've got a 96 with the OHV 4.0 with 178k. I've used 5w-30 and 10w-30 (there isn't too much of a difference in a temperate climate) since I've had it and it runs like a top. Never burns oil. And trust me, I do not baby it when it comes to driving.

My recommendation: stick with your choice of 0/5/10W-30 and you're engine will outlast everything around it while giving you the best drivability and fuel economy. If you use Mobil 1 in particular and you still want a thicker oil, a good compromise would be 0W-40 especially considering Mobil 1 oils are on the thin side of their viscosity ratings (there is a range of true viscosity within which an oil can be certified as xW-20, xW-30, etc. Think of it this way; if true viscosities were extrapolated as such, one brand might be a xW-28 while another might be an xW-33, but both fall within the range to be classified as xW-30)

I agree with you 100%, but to each his own.

 

[CDW6212R]

FYI, internal engine clearances have basically not changed since the 70's. Only the quality of oils has changed, and thus the ability to run thinner oils while still maintaining protection for parts.

The most important factors for engine life is maintenance, the actual quality and timeliness of the work. Use the best air filter, not the cheapest, and the best oil, not the cheapest. Mobil 1 is not the best, and it's also not the fourth best, it's at least fifth or worse. And that is a judgment of their best oil, not their cheapest.

The quality of the oil is most important, not the viscosity.

 

[jlsparky7]

FYI, internal engine clearances have basically not changed since the 70's. Only the quality of oils has changed, and thus the ability to run thinner oils while still maintaining protection for parts.

The most important factors for engine life is maintenance, the actual quality and timeliness of the work. Use the best air filter, not the cheapest, and the best oil, not the cheapest. Mobil 1 is not the best, and it's also not the fourth best, it's at least fifth or worse. And that is a judgment of their best oil, not their cheapest.

The quality of the oil is most important, not the viscosity.

I agree, using a quality oil is important but weight is important as well.

 

[CDW6212R]

Viscosity is a trivial item relating to the climate and fuel efficiency. You should choose one based on what your low and high temperatures are. The difference in mileage is not likely measurable.

For the main purpose of oil, to lubricate and transfer heat away from frictions surfaces, the quality of oil is critical. That's why I use Amsoil, the best Amsoil, and it comes one way in one viscosity choice. The quality is critical, the viscosity is trivial. Regards,

 

[O.Madsen]

I knew it!

:

This conclusion / solurion i found is a bit... Controversial - i woulg call it..

And a good source of discussing this furthermore.. And thats fine.

I only want to add one thing, that do think is something thats being overseen in this.. It may sound stupid to the hardcore " its a mechanical thing and theyre all the same" kind of guy, but allow me to drop the line anyways. You can feel free to laugh, but this is something i truly believe...

Forget about the perfect brand, viscosity and all that.. Think this ( this is my oly way to explain my experience with this)..

A vehicle - especially not too well maintained, gets what i would call "habits".. My X for example, has been running mobil 1 10w40 for 6 years. Its hard and really expensive to maintain here in spain and i ahve lot of things to "bring up to speed"... But. I want to continue with the 10w40. Because. I bet i will get some kind of diffent sound or "issue" if i change this. Just as i did. Even if i change to thinner oil. Because (here is the "stupid part") my engine is used to it.. And. it sounds as new.

I have never had an american car before and a lot of things are still a mystery to me (as how the f**k that tranny works...? Yep. European auto trannys are different... ) But. I have worked plenty in 60´s & 70´s minis & 90´s hondas to know, that fx. changing to a "racing type" oil with really diffrent viscosity than its "used to" causes the engine to sound MUCH different.. Sometimes more noisy, sometimes less... Depends...

Maybe this ounds stupid, cause it aint "science" and facts, it personal experience, and my belief...

To sum it up, since it got long ( and maybe stupid - i actually am a bit drunk right now) ....

My engine is used to 10w40. Maybe in theory another oil owuld be better. But 6 years wear and tear on the enginge with this oil, is not something i believe you should not take in consideration and has something to say as well... It runs good with this. U all know what that slight change did... Made it sound all f**ked up and ****ty..
Maybe im just being like an old fart. But i like my cars to be healthy. And when the engine sounds healthy and has run that oil for 6 year with poor maintenance. Im sorry, but changing the oil to another viscosity - thicker or thinner, does not sound like a good idea...

With this said, i would like to thank u all for your input. Its interresting reading and even though some of u disagree, u all make points, that are worth taking in consideration. And i also learned a lot - Thanks! ! !

I know my solution makes ome of u "skilled guys" with lots of knowledge look bad. But I dont think youre wrong. As i said. You may consider the fact that old engines with some miles on them, act different, dependign on "what its used to"... :

I want bikini pics of the missus in front of the explorer!

Well..... Me too...

Ole

 

[O.Madsen]

Damn.. Sorry about my typing guys.. Read 3 lines and.. Yeah.. Hope u understand it all..

 

[SCB2525]

If there are weird noises or drivability issues significant enough to note here that stem from moving to a 40 to 30 weight oil, I think you may have an underlying problem that the oil viscosity has nothing to do with in and of itself.

 

[jlsparky7]

Viscosity is a trivial item relating to the climate and fuel efficiency. You should choose one based on what your low and high temperatures are. The difference in mileage is not likely measurable.

For the main purpose of oil, to lubricate and transfer heat away from frictions surfaces, the quality of oil is critical. That's why I use Amsoil, the best Amsoil, and it comes one way in one viscosity choice. The quality is critical, the viscosity is trivial. Regards,

The difference in mileage would DEFINITELY be noticeable when you own a vehicle for 300,000 miles.

Yes, amsoil is the best in my opinion as well.

 

[O.Madsen]

If there are weird noises or drivability issues significant enough to note here that stem from moving to a 40 to 30 weight oil, I think you may have an underlying problem that the oil viscosity has nothing to do with in and of itself.

Yes & no. the engine is not new. I can only imagine some internal parts are worn. Some more than others. So in a way thats true. But on the other hand. I am convinced i dont have any serious issue, that needs attention. So i have to refer the "underlying problem" to the fact that the truck is 11 years old and therefore of course. Is not like new.

This just points out what i was saying before. there is nothing wrong in generalizing and putting several "statistic truths" in this specific issue. As true as they can be, engines at this age, varies.. Meaning. That just because i went back to the "original oil" and it solved the issue for my truck, does not mean that it will on another.. Just that.

Sometimes things just cant really be explained. As why the preassure dropped so fast when the oil was warm. I thought the filter, cause oil cant do that in my world.. But i changed the oil.. And it went away.. So.. I dont get it. And i dont need to. Im just happy having a healthy- though old - but reliable engine which sounds and acts healthy.

Have a nice weekend, people!

 

[SCB2525]

How often do you change your oil out of curiosity? Have you ever had the transmission fluid and filter changed? FYI, the transmission uses Dexron III/Mercon which I have no idea whether is common in Europe.

Also, If you're having trouble finding parts (like an oil filter that isn't Fram), www.rockauto.com ships worldwide; their selection is good and their prices are excellent.