One grease to rule them all?

[elrynon]

I'm getting ready to do a once over on the exp. and basically grease any/everything that moves. (CV joints, tie rod ends, ball joints, etc) Right now I have multi-duty black grease in the grease gun but have read that CV joints take a special grease. (basically high pressure grease if I'm reading right?) SO...what I'm asking all the grease gurus, is there one grease that I can get to use for my grease gun to use EVERYWHERE? Or do I just have to suck it up and buy different greases for everything?

Also, should I switch over to synthetic grease? Obviously with oil I know it's a no brainer, but I was over at bobtheoilguy.com and I saw A LOT of people talking about how their synthetic greases separated and leaked out of the gun. (Doesn't seem like you'd want a grease that separates?)

When I do my cv joints can I use the needle attachment I have for my gun? (has gotten me into some awesome places without having to tear stuff apart. No, I NEVER stick it THROUGH a boot.) Or does it HAVE to be torn apart to re-grease?

Thanks all!

 

[sport97]

The grease I have in my gun is red, not sure if its synthetic or not but I have no separation issues. Never greased the CV joint so I can't help you there.

 

[Rick]

Question:
What's the Liquid Dripping from My Grease Gun?
I use Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease, and I notice a red liquid dripping from the grease gun. What does this indicate? What can I do about it?
-- Joe Damptz, Henderson, NV

Answer:
Yes, all grease will separate oil from thickener over time, some more than others. Even a high soap grease like Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease will bleed some oil, especially if the gun is left under pressure when sitting on the shelf. The length of time it's undisturbed, increased temperatures and increased pressures all promote oil separation.

As far as remedy, there's no harm to the performance of the grease, so the little bit of few drops that are lost won't affect the grease's ability to lubricate. Release the pressure on the gun, wipe it off and it will be fine.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Liquid_Dripping_from_Grease_Gun.aspx

 

[elrynon]

lol Amazingly, mobil 1 grease is mostly the one they were all talking about seperating. Temperature I shouldn't have a problem with as I keep the grease gun in the house. Only other place is in my 300 degrees hot metal shed. Guess if I do switch over to a synthetic I'll have to remember to start pulling the plunger. Thanks for that half of the info Rick.

 

[Rick]

Lucas Red and Amsoil red do the same thing. Probably others too.

 

[sport97]

I use my grease gun so often I don't ever notice it separate because it probably doesn't sit long enough.

 

[elrynon]

Which are both synthetics. So yeah, pretty much like I was reading over on the other site. Synthetics for some reason separate quicker than non-synthetics. Granted, the site you linked from mobil 1 says it's normal. *shrugs*

Anywho.....now to see if anyone knows of a "one grease to rule them all" answer. I would consider using cv grease for everything but I don't know if high pressure grease is applicable for EVERYTHING??


Sport - That's one thing they were talking about. The people who were noticing the separation were people like me, use it every once in a while to do "touch up" greasings and that's about it.

Edit - did a quick search on the reds (because that's what you guys were talking about) and from what I see on another forum they were talking about "red marine grease" hitting basically ALL the checkpoints. High pressure, water resistant, shock load resistant, bearings, ball joints, etc etc. No mention of a brand though. One of those areas where "pretty much all the same"?

Edit 2 - Then they end the thread saying they all agree on synthetic green grease.

 

[koda2000]

are your cv boots torn? there is no reason to ever grease a cv joint unless your rebuilding it or replacing a torn boot. there's nowhere for old the grease to go. if for some reason you need to replace the grease in a cv joint, it's special grease. autozone sells it and it comes in a little foil bag, which is just the right amount, but you'll need to take the boot loose and clean out the remaining old grease to put it in.

the only way you are going to be able to grease your ball joints, tie rod ends and your drive shaft(s) is if they've been replaced at some point, because the way your X came from the Ford factory it had no grease fittings anywhere.

 

[elrynon]

Boots are fine. I just figured at 135K miles it might be nice for some fresh new grease. I attend the school of "nothing last forever, no matter what the dealership says" I realize there's nowhere for the old grease to "go" but that doesn't mean it doesn't break down.

Yes, all the ball joints have been replaced and as for the tie rod ends, the needle attachment for my grease gun slides up under(not into) the boot perfectly with no damage to the boot. As for the driveshaft I honestly hadn't considered doing that. (still building my "to grease/lube" list).

 

[bronchole]

At one point several years ago I embarked upon the quest to find the one grease to rule them all. After looking at all of the rating information for all of the various properties for grease that is on the lables for most of the grease I discoverd the one grease to rule the all. An amazingly it is not an expensive grease either!

It is the Sta-Lube brand red grease! Harbor Freight carries it and its only a couple dollars a tube!

Check it out for yourself. It rates Exelint in every catagory. I use it almost exclusivly for grease purposes in everything. It is red and it does drip when stored in a grease gun like the other greases.