Overdrive Alternator Pulley Installation: 4.0 SOHC

[foxy]

just a quick point; the belt i hadat30mm is too short to put on .the 1/2" shorter would be better.is'nt it amazing though how things get away from you when you think you've got it licked something else pops up now i've to replace my tensioner

 

[Papa]

You say you are only getting 14.0 VDC @ 1000 RPM? I assume the brushes and slip rings are in top condition and the voltage regulator is working up to specification? I have seen this cause a problem before in other situations. An open rectifier diode would also limit your output terminal voltage.

 

[foxy]

alternator

mate, i put a 5/8 cable directly from the alt to the cranking batt with a 200 amp fuse in line i also left the oe cable connected as well they do run in parallel i found if i disconnected the oe 50 amp in the main box i could'nt start my girl and i was loathe to pull out all that gear any way she goes great

 

[Papa]

Foxy,
Do not forget to upgrade your ground straps and connections to at least match your 5/8 cable off your alternator. An alternator on an engine turning at 1000 engine RPM should be able to push nearly 100% of its rated output current and rated voltage. When I used to rebuild alternators we used to test them for 150% of rated output per manufactures specifications. When they could not perform that 150% load test at rated voltage it was obvious that something was not right. Most alternators today utilize half wave rectification and take a beating especially if you jump start someone’s car with the engine running since that can weaken your diodes.

 

[foxy]

alternator

Thanks mate for your timely reminder as I completely overlooked the ground straps.If I went straight from the negative on the battery to ground with a similar size cable would that be right? I have reconnected the oe plus the heavier cable and it is working ok.With my in house deep cycle batt connected so I can use it as a jump batt I placed a surge arrester inline to save my elec's from damage. I've only ever had to use it once but it saved my butt.I also need to test the new alt to see just exactly find out what it is doing .I know it is working because I had to put a new belt on to stop the slip.a've a g'day!

 

[Papa]

Thanks mate for your timely reminder as I completely overlooked the ground straps.If I went straight from the negative on the battery to ground with a similar size cable would that be right? I have reconnected the oe plus the heavier cable and it is working ok.With my in house deep cycle batt connected so I can use it as a jump batt I placed a surge arrester inline to save my elec's from damage. I've only ever had to use it once but it saved my butt.I also need to test the new alt to see just exactly find out what it is doing .I know it is working because I had to put a new belt on to stop the slip.a've a g'day!

Yes that would work but remember you really have two grounds, first the engine and then the frame. Steal is not the best conductor of electricity so a direct copper ground (negative) run the same size as your positive becomes important. Especially if you plan on using your remote batteries to start your engine.

 

[foxy]

alternator

Mate, Thankyou for your help ,my memory says ther's a strap from the body to the frame albiet a small one in the middle underneath about half way along the chassis on the righthand side .Down here we are all righthand drives I'll replace this one with the same size cable I used for the alternator.Fine copper wiring is what I'll use; sounds like Yodda!any way what are your thoughts on h4 blue from altezzaworld on ebay ? One thing I've noticed the globes there are different here .H4 with the large 3 pin blades is what we use here in OZ. I'm looking for a better or should i say intenser light not nescesarally brighter.

 

[Papa]

Mate, Thankyou for your help ,my memory says ther's a strap from the body to the frame albiet a small one in the middle underneath about half way along the chassis on the righthand side .Down here we are all righthand drives I'll replace this one with the same size cable I used for the alternator.Fine copper wiring is what I'll use; sounds like Yodda!any way what are your thoughts on h4 blue from altezzaworld on ebay ? One thing I've noticed the globes there are different here .H4 with the large 3 pin blades is what we use here in OZ. I'm looking for a better or should i say intenser light not nescesarally brighter.

Remember the OEM ground strap is made for heavy flexing and you can have more than one. The 5/8 cable you have will work well if it is fine stranded like welding cable, the heavier course stranded stuff is more subject to fatigue cracks. Also if your batteries are outside the engine compartment a dedicated copper ground will improve your available power and your battery will last longer as well.
I can't help on the lights other than the whiter they are the more glare you will likely have.

 

[BrooklynBay]

I replaced my OEM grounding strap with a standard 4 gauge battery cable. Those OEM straps do go bad after a while. I'm sure that a 4 gauge wire will provide a better ground connection, and will certainly last a lot longer.

 

[foxy]

alternator

Mate, The cable I'm not exactly sure of the guage but would it matter if I added another elsewhere? the cable is fine wire which I understand is not as good as thicker strand cable but as you say nowhere as flexible as fine strand. Putting a longer strand underneath could cause problems especially when off road ;ie getting ripped off.I have my duel battery in the back directly earthed to the floor of the cargo area.I built a sliding drawer system for the rear compartment enclosing the 2nd battery in it's own box also to carry my recovery gear safely and my compressor.Any ideas anyone?

 

[Papa]

You can have more than one parallel ground strap. I recommend you run a separate ground cable the 15 or 20 something feet from the batteries in the back to a convenient location on the engine and yes do not let any of the cables hang down. The improved conductivity of a dedicated copper ground to your batteries in the back should soon be evident and they will charge faster as well.

 

[foxy]

alternator

Mate , Your saying I should bring a cable from the rear battery and connect it directly to the engine, ground that is ?What if I only went as far as the trans mission ? I'm thinking of the cost of the cable, that size cable is not cheap.I also have another question I also run a third batt in my offroad trailer for the lights and fridge which is a three way; gas ,240 volt,12volt. The fridge works by convection and as such draws a fair amount of current, that's why I went for the 200 amper in the first place. I know good earths are important, the trailer is earthed through the hitch which is not always the best to the car .I have a smaller cable connected through light cabling earthed to the car. Both 2nd & 3rd batts charge at the same time ;any way to better it .?

 

[Papa]

Truth is I would run it all the way to the mounting bracket for the alternator. Does it have to be as big as the 5/8 positive cable? No but good, better, best. What you have works, right! Even a #4 wire would be a big improvement and cost a lot less but I would still go to the alternator that is your power source. Do you have access to a good digital multimeter? That way you can measure the improvement it is measurable under load. You did the same thing with your earth on the trailer and you can measure that as well.

 

[foxy]

alternator

Mate , Your quite correct big better best. I do obviusly need to get myself a decent meter even when I did the brown wire mod I should've got onebut mate then I've got to learn how to use it! great fun I have trouble with ac/dc which is which ha ha.Yes I'll bring one from the rear also if I took a lead from the main cranking batt to the alternator (-) and earth it there as well would that help to gain more from the alternator? keeping in mind I retained the oe equip in that case does the wire from the rear have to be that heavy?

 

[Papa]

Ok with the DVM in this case we are primarily looking for voltage drop and in this case we are trying to minimize that to acceptable limits. A little trial and error here to resolve some of the unique aspects of the project. I prefer an auto ranging DVM but anything will work the others just aren’t as user friendly. I use a Fluke 77 for 99% of my testing but I love my Fluke 8060A. Most cable charts (lets say portable cable for this example) are calculated for 120 volts and the acceptable limits are what 2 or 3% for voltage drop at a given current. The trouble here is we are working with 12 volts and 3% of that does not leave much to work with. That is why I recommend connecting the new ground to the alternator bracket (your source of power) it shortens the run by about 6 feet and the electrons do not have to pass through the engine block they have an easier path of least resistance. Even a #10 wire rated for 30 amps would give you improvement. At this point it would help if we knew the maximum charging current going to the batteries in the back. Another thing that can help in the long run is a little solder on the lugs just where they are crimped to the copper to preserve flexibility. This is also the first place electrical failures begin. We are trying to improve conductivity under load by 2 or 3 volts if possible but much will be measured in tenths of a volt thus the DVM.

 

[foxy]

alternator

Mate , I'll drop a line from the alt straightto the chassis.I prefer in front because of radiated heat from the engine block.Down here in Australia heat plays a pretty big role in things We've had cars explode because grass and such getting caught underneath and so forth. I have put an air scoop on the bonnet and removed the insulation from the bonnet and also the plastic cover over the intake. Cooler air means denser air more oxy. Yes i've moded the maf (bigger)and ported mustang tb 3" snorkel k&n filter bigger exhaust no cats but hot dogs instead Mate , she goes ! put a long range tank on her 190 liters all up plus offroad suspension heavy duty. She goes any where I point her

 

[Papa]

Send pictures of your mods so all can see.

 

[foxy]

alternator

Mate, This has been a desire of mine for some time but I do't know how to do it. If you could guide me I certainly would appreciate it. I've also added rated eye bolts bolted directly to the chassis for towing using a snatch strap because I do'nt trust the oe set up. also hard points for lifting with a highlift jack.These are some of the little differences I've made Just good fun please show me how thankyou

 

[Papa]

According to the FAQ in the top header you need to become an Elite Explorer to post pictures. Share your fun and ideas.

Or you could use a third party host such as
http://media.putfile.com

 

[foxy]

alternator

Mate, I'm joining the elite ex so I can post some pictures no worries! Anyway in our discussions I've realised one important factor we've overlooked , with a very good earth you do lessen the chance of electrolysis causing rust. I know there are gadgets available where you place in different places over your car to change the magnetism of the particular panel. I don't know if they're all they're cracked up to be what they say they are. You may have heard different?