How to: Overhead console display fix - 2nd Gen

[Toucan]

Guys, allow me to jump in here. With your permission!

SUBJECT 1998 FORD EXPLERER XLT 4.0 SOHC 6CY. 101,000 MILES

I recently left my sun roof opened and an 18 hour torrential tropical rain cam down and really did a number on my headliner. The result was that i had to replace headliner. However I also found out from last user that the sun roof could not close. Thus the reason why it was open. SO! I removed the whole dam thing. I went down to a body shop and had the hole where the glass was sealed off with a metal sheeting cut out from the roof of another car. Yesterday I installed my "New" headliner taken out of a 2001 explorer with no sunroof. Exact fit!! Only thing I did not get on was the console - temp/compass/lights. Today during lunch break I found the metal bracket I had misplaced so I want to complete the work tonight.

Now I have a question. I have never found one of these consoles with BOTH lights working! Even the vehicle I got the headliner from had the left light blown out. All that I have seen have their left light blown out. Is this a factory fault or should they carry special bulbs???

Any comments thoughts. I think I have checked about 7 explorers. All have the left light blown out!!!

 

[EricJRW]

First I would like to say, what a great thread and resource. Wish I had found this a few days ago.

(Prior to finding this thread) I visually inspected my circuit board and saw no visible solder breaks, so I assumed (perhaps incorrectly) that my board was fried. I bought one, used, off eBay for $12. A reasonable expense for a solution. The "new" one is working fine, but that still leaves me with the old one, which I would like to try to fix (knowing now that looks can be deceiving). If I can fix it, it would be great to have as a spare.

Lucky for me the "new" unit came with a connector and wires. Just the 6-wire harness that goes directly to the circuit board (all the wires are black), not the harness for lights, etc.

Does anyone know the pin-out for the circuit board? For the purpose of testing, would it be OK for me to apply just power? I don't think I would need the temperature leads, or the dimmer... But that does make me wonder what the last wire is for (assuming 2 for power).

Thank you in advance,

Eric

Oh, and for Toucan, have you tried swapping the bulbs (or checking with ohm meter) to be sure it's the bulb? I had a bulb out, the right (for the driver). However, when I gave the socket a twist, the light came on. It's a very dodgy electrical connection, some sort of flexible circuit board, and mine had a bit of damage (looks like from heat and/or arcing). You may find it's not the bulb, but rather the electrical connection.

 

[kevinspann]

I just fixed one last weekend as well - the solder breaks may not be visible at first glance, but after trying to resolder one side of one of the 512 chips...IT MOVED. Which means it wasn't soldered at at least one end. Touched up all 4 solder joints and added solder, and the display works great.

 

[Toucan]

First I would like to say, what a great thread and resource. Wish I had found this a few days ago.


Eric

Oh, and for Toucan, have you tried swapping the bulbs (or checking with ohm meter) to be sure it's the bulb? I had a bulb out, the right (for the driver). However, when I gave the socket a twist, the light came on. It's a very dodgy electrical connection, some sort of flexible circuit board, and mine had a bit of damage (looks like from heat and/or arcing). You may find it's not the bulb, but rather the electrical connection.

Thanks. The problem was really the "flat" connectors "wires". One was broken. It looks like just the simple twisting it takes when checking the bulb broke it. So I too it down to a radio repair shop and used conventional wires to "electrify" the bulb sockets and removed the flat stuff. All working fine now.

My refurbishing continues, I have changed several switches, bumper, etc. Last will be a complete spray over sometime later this month (Oct).
A year and a half ago I replaced most parts in the under carraige. With only 100,000 miles I can use it for another 2 - 3 years and still get a good price for it.
cheers

 

[Toucan]

Just discovered yesterday that my daughters Subaru has the same "solder" problem in the clock console. Guess these vehicles not made for tropics. lol

 

[EricJRW]

Thanks. The problem was really the "flat" connectors "wires". One was broken. It looks like just the simple twisting it takes when checking the bulb broke it. So I too it down to a radio repair shop and used conventional wires to "electrify" the bulb sockets and removed the flat stuff. All working fine now.

My refurbishing continues, I have changed several switches, bumper, etc. Last will be a complete spray over sometime later this month (Oct).
A year and a half ago I replaced most parts in the under carraige. With only 100,000 miles I can use it for another 2 - 3 years and still get a good price for it.
cheers

Yeah, calling those things "wires" is a real stretch. I'm sure I'll have to do something similar soon.

Oh, and while I still don't know the pin-out (Actually now I just don't know the pin numbering. I was hoping the board was marked, but it's not) for just the display unit, I did find this which will make the process easier. I may or may not pull the console to get the mapping, but at least I know what the wires do now.

PS. I grabbed a copy and would have uploaded that, but it's not immediately obvious how to (maybe not possible). Anyway, the source URL is http://www.justanswer.com/ford/2q7mz-1999-ford-explorer-compass-temperature-not-working.html

 

[boprn]

I had the same problem with a 2003 Explorer Sport Trac. All my resistors looked good, but decided to solder the two '510' resistors, as well as the other three. Got them pretty warm just in case there were any fractures. IT WORKED.

I'm no mechanic, but still it took less than hour for the entire process.

Wanted to thank all the posters here - you saved me about $500.

 

[66foot]

Thallarsen - Best fix ever. Exactly as you described. I am not sure how you tracked the problem down to the 510 Surface Mount Resistor, but I am impressed. It took a very large magnifying glass and some very fine silver solder, but after a few minutes we were repaired and back in business. Take care and thanks for the help. Pat (66foot)

 

[99SportX]

I did this fix on my 99 xlt a while back and now I need to do my 99 mounty. It died a few months back. It has a moonroof. I tried to pull that trim back with no success. It may be due to the fact that it was 10 deg F this morning though. lol I will try again this weekend when it is warmer. Hopefully the adhesive will give a little bit more. I have pulled the same trim back on my sport before and it was not difficult at all from what I remember but it was summer when I did it.

 

[ambrosiaB]

Dude!! You're awesome. Mine just went out a few weeks ago and it kinda drivea me batty i like knowing which direction im heading. Lol

 

[tsmlpn]

Display on compass/temp console on 2000 Mercury Mountaineer

I took it out, and sure enough #510 was completely broke off, my sons friend resoldered it for me. I put it back together,hooked it back up, and IT WORKS!!! YAY! Next mission, the radio display that is not working.

 

[player12]

Never soldered before in my life. I just fixed this... Thanks for the excellent write up. It's like new again!

 

[xochimec]

worked for me too - thanks Thallarsen!

 

[dieselkitty]

Thank You so much........I couldn't figure out what was wrong/how to fix it.......tytyty

 

[Ratty]

Awesome! Thanks!

Thallarsen- you deserve a medal. Thank you!

 

[Chadilac]

Type of solder

Hey guys I'm new to the forum, but have been having the same problem with the compass/thermometer display not working at all. I was wondering what type/size solder you all used to resolder the transistor?

 

[Chadilac]

Never mind I figured it out and fixed it!

 

[shizzle8787]

Awesome thread!!! I went ahead and soldered the two resistors even though they looked fine and it fixed it. Took me about 20 minutes to take it out solder it and put it back in.

 

[Punjab]

'94 Limited Fix

Unfortunately I didn't have time to read every post in this thread so if this was posted already, I apologize.

Following the information at the beginning of the thread, I opened my overhead console up didn't see any "510" resistors. Three separate "512" resistors but they looked solid and didn't move after a quick test.

However, both of the "161" resistors near the lower, beveled-edge of the pc board on mine had hairline cracks and when I checked one with a pick it completely popped off. Re-soldered and I'm back in business!

Thanks to the OP for the help!

 

[sjhoufek]

That was fantastic

Thank you for sharing this! I took it apart and put it back together in about an hour and a half, did a terrible, then a better job of soldering, then knocked one of the resistors clear off the board. I had nothing to lose doing this as that unit has been out for over a year and I just chalked it up to "oh well, stuff wears out". But I reinstalled it, fired it up, and the module lit up like it always used to. It was 3 degrees fahrenheit in my garage and I was pointed north. Now I have a soldering iron I may never use again and a really great day ahead of me.

That was great!