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Explorer Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer, ST, Sport, Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
I couldn't believe that I actually was able to fix it myself. After a not so hot soldering job, I plugged it in and it worked. Thank you. You were right on the money with this fix
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My '95 Bronco's compass/temp display wasn't working when I bought it last month. I dropped it out and opened it up to reveal the circuit board and the entire right back corner is burnt. Therefore, I immediately got on-line and purchased another one. The seller, of the new one stated that it worked. I switched them out and plugged it in and still do NOT have anything on the display. I followed the directions for calibrating by first holding in the :Menu: button for 4 seconds (I held over 10 sec.) and still nothing. After reading each post in the first 11 pages of this thread, I began thinking that I know mine doesn't work because it is severely burnt but why doesn't the newly purchased used one not work either? The newly purchased one also came with the lights too and even though mine worked I still switched them out as well. The new one's immediately came on so I assumed the compass gauge is bad. Now I'm second guessing that theory and wondering if the fuse could have blown when the original one fried (I wrote this off initially since the lights worked)? Does anybody know if the compass and lights run off separate fuses? Thanks
sorry, i don't know the answer to your question, but why don't you just go ahead and check your fuses? it will probably take less time than it did to write your post.
Just wanted to thank you for this post. I have had the trac for almost 5 yrs and never seen the temp/compass display work. After this post, open it up and hairline cracks on both 510 components (almost had to look at it sideways to see). Never soldered before but picked up an iron and found a circuit board from a junk tablet to practice on small components. After awhile, got the nerve and hooked it up and everything works. I too had the corner of my screen looked burnt but it's not an issue. My only 2 cents would be to be gentle prying apart the black housing from the white (circuit board) base, I had cracked 1 of the clips.
Thank you
After re-soldering the old resistors, it worked fine for a few weeks. However the display died again. Someone suggested replacing the “150” resistors with higher wattage resistors. (68 0hm – ¼ watt). I thought I would try this option. I could not locate 68 ohm ¼ watt resistors but I did buy 68 ohm ½ watt resistors from RadioShack. I replace both “150” resistors and it seems to have done the trick. I just returned from a 1500 miles trip over 10 days of driving and the display is still working. I also had a bad ambient temperature sensor. I bought an after-market (Duralast) but it did not fit properly. I then bought a Motorcraft sensor and it worked. So for now, all is well!
Another Fixed Overhead Console Display '99 Eddie Bauer
Many thanks to Thallarsen for posting the steps to repair our '99 Explorer Eddie Bauer's overhead display. It's been blank for a long time. I finally began searching the Net for a way to fix it a few days ago, found this forum and Thallarsen's steps to a working display.
It took a few minutes to remove the console, about twenty more to disassemble the unit to get to the board. The toughest part was separating the white plastic base from the black housing to get to the board. The white tabs proved difficult to depress. Perhaps I was too reluctant to use much pressure, but eventually I threw caution to the wind and pressed like crazy
The two "510" components appeared to be solidly connected to the board, but the solder had a brownish appearance. Dropped new solder on top of the old, let it cool for a few minutes, and then plugged the unit back into the connector inside the car. Turned the engine on and yabba dabba doo!! the display was working. Reassembled everything, and reinstalled in the Explorer. Looking good! 81° and facing west.
As others have mentioned, my display too had a burned looking area in one corner, but this proved to not be a problem.
Nearly seven years since Thallarsen began the thread explaining how to fix the display and that post is still helping people, many thanks.
Ha. Didn't mean to rub it in to the east coast folks. If it counts for anything, much needed rain is returning overnight to the Sacramento area. And we dropped to about 68° degrees this afternoon according to my newly rejuvenated overhead display
Thank you for you information on fixing the console module. I have a 2005 Sport Trac with a power sun roof. Repaired it in about an hour much to my surprise! I had the use of a miniature soldering iron and a magnafying glass which made the job very easy. Could not see any damage or breaks but went ahead and soldered the components as pictured. Plugged it in and it worked! Thanks again!
It never warmed up enough to get the console out of the mountaineer but now that spring is here, the adhesive softened enough to get the trim out of the way.
The end of one of the 510 resistors was lifted quite a ways off the board. I was unable to resolder as the metallic coating on the end of the resistor was worn off somehow. The solder wouldn't stick. I have some new 51 ohm resistors on order and will get it back together later this week hopefully.
This has got to be one of the luckiest repair jobs ever for me. I have a 98 Mountaineer (w/sun roof) and the overhead console display has been out for a few years and I had found this website a while back and only managed to get to it now. Pulling down the console was exactly as Thallarsen had said (no screws involved). Taking connector #2 off was easy. Unplugging connector #1 was not. Trying to spread the grayish/white plastic in the middle of the two sides to clear the black tabs so I can pull up & remove the connector was hard. But, I got it. I was even going to remove the 2 torx screws and remove the whole switch, but then realize I didn't have the correct torx size. With the console down and off the car, I took the console and stepped out to the driveway because my garage didn't have enough light. This is around 7p.m. and it was still very bright. With console in my hands i walked across the street and borrowed a T10 torx bit from my neighbor. I decided to have dinner and watch some T.V. before continuing with this project. At around 10 or 11p.m. I tore the console apart. while sitting in the sofa. I had one of those tilting laptop computer trays (like a breakfast in bed tray) that sits over your lap. I used an old sweatshirt on top of the tray and under the console so I don't scratch it up. Surprise - only one 510 resistor and there were definite signs that there was a 2nd resistor due to left over solder and brown spots. So, i carefully checked to find the missing resistor. Gently unfolding the sweatshirt, checking the floor, the sofa, checked everywhere in the car, etc. - Nope can't find it !! It's about midnight now. OK, drumroll please! Remember I took the console out to the driveway around 7p.m.? Well, i was wearing thongs sandal and remembered I felt something hit my foot. I took a quick look then, but I didn't see anything. Well, it's midnight and i decided to open the garage door, took a flash light and went to the approximate spot where I had stood, bent over and shined the flashlight....within 5 seconds I see this black thing against my gray driveway. OMG it has some numbers on it - 510 ! I still don't believe it. Took it in and ohm it out to make sure it's still good and it registers 51 ohms. Perfect! Well, you know the rest of the story. The console is put back together and working even with a bad soldering job. Btw, the trick to removing the white cover from the black tabs in order to get to the circuit board is to take a jewelers flathead screwdriver and insert it into the slot and gently twist while pulling up on the white cover. You don't have to pry or push the tabs. Unhook the 2 on one side first and then you can gently open it and simply unhook the other side. Using the right width of a flathead screwdriver makes a difference. I think I should've use the same method for connector #1 . It was 71degrees and pointing SE. Thanks Thallarsen!!
gonna try this fix this week on my new-to-me 2000 XLT. board is out. I don't see anything obvious, but what the heck, i'll try re-soldering the resistors. should I try checking fuses first? everything else seems to be working except the Mach radio display, which is a similar but different issue.
gonna try this fix this week on my new-to-me 2000 XLT. board is out. I don't see anything obvious, but what the heck, i'll try re-soldering the resistors. should I try checking fuses first? everything else seems to be working except the Mach radio display, which is a similar but different issue.
well, I bought a fine-point soldering iron for $10 and re-soldered the 510 resistors. it came out looking really good, but I had my doubts that it would work. hardest part was putting the zig-saw puzzle that is the overhead console back together. plugged it in, turned on the key and the darn thing started working., "80 degrees F, NW". I am super stoked! excellent thread - thanks! now I may try re-soldering the power board in my radio. I understand even it I get the display to work it probably wont work for long, but I might as give it a shot before spending $48.75 for the Dorman 586-001 power board.
All,
I read through this thread and did not see anything about a DIM overhead console. Mine lights up fine but it is just very dim. Would the resistor solder fix possibly work, or should be looking elsewhere?
All,
I read through this thread and did not see anything about a DIM overhead console. Mine lights up fine but it is just very dim. Would the resistor solder fix possibly work, or should be looking elsewhere?
I don't know, but it's a relatively easy thing to re-solder the resistors. it might help. when I tested mine with my VOM i found one did not have continuity at all. I re-soldered mine with a $10 fine-point soldering iron, some flux and some electrical solder I bought at the hardware store. a very satisfying repair.
just did mine on my 01 sport this past weekend. had 1 of them that the end was actually sticking up, and one of the legs going to the display was also broken. soldered both of them, and the "leg" performs great now. Thanks again.
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I didn't have much luck on my 94.
The circuit board and display are in bad shape.
Looks like something overheated badly, so I'm just going to look for a replacement unit.