How to: - Overhead console display fix - 2nd Gen | Page 15 | Ford Explorer Forums

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How to: Overhead console display fix - 2nd Gen

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Thanks a bunch!

I have a 93 Ranger XLT that I modded with a 1999 Explorer O.H.C. It worked for a couple of months no problem. One day coming home I noticed the display was out, mode change didn't revive it. I cried out, Well Horse feathers! I read your info on this problem & took mine apart for a look-see. One of the surface mount resistors had lifted (dropped, in the while-mounted position). The other was still soldered OK. Resoldering wasn't an option in my case as one end of the lifted resistor's silver end-connections was history so there was nothing left to solder to. I dashed out to Radio Shack and bough a five-pack of 47-Ohm * 1/2 watt Carbon-Film resistors. Their PN: 2711105 $1.19 less tax. I removed the still attached surface mount resistor too and fashioned the resistor leads of the replacements to look roughly like Mr. Potato Head's ears and soldered them in place. Reassembled the O.H. console and it lives once again. So "Many thanks" to your ingenuity! I would have found the problem eventually but you shortened the inspection curve significantly. :rangertan:

I previously did a little modification to the console by adding a single amber 12 volt LED situated between the two map lights. I wired it into the dash lights connection so at night I can see the area where my cup holders are (between the seats) as it is now softly lit. That area was in total darkness before. I stole this idea from my Jaguar X-Type, which has a similar LED that lights the cup holder area. It isn't at all distracting while driving. A nice touch. :D
 



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I previously did a little modification to the console by adding a single amber 12 volt LED situated between the two map lights. I wired it into the dash lights connection so at night I can see the area where my cup holders are (between the seats) as it is now softly lit. That area was in total darkness before. I stole this idea from my Jaguar X-Type, which has a similar LED that lights the cup holder area. It isn't at all distracting while driving. A nice touch. :D

That would be an interesting mod to post about
 






A greatfull THANK YOU and I raise my beer stein to Thallarsen for the OHC display repair post/pics. Mine went out a week ago and 'Google' brought me to this forum.

One of the resistors had broken the solder on one side. It only took about 20 seconds to resolder both resistors. It took about an hour to remove/disassemble/reassemble/install the OHC. I really like knowing what the outside temp is in addition to having the compass.

Lots of knowledgeable folks and useful info on this site.

P.S. My cailper bolts are secure also.:D
 






I resoldered mine and it did not seem to work? But today after it warmed up well guess what the OHC came on!!! But the temperature said -40?? in C or F but the compass works fine I was able to calibrate it.

Does anyone with the manual for the electrical wiring diagram know where the thermistor (the temperature sensor) is located so I can check it? Seems that is the issue (in my way of thinking) so if I can fix/replace that my temperature should work again. I just like things to work....when they don't it bugs me even in a winter vehicle.

Thanks for any advice/info.

Scott
 






Sensor location

Does anyone with the manual for the electrical wiring diagram know where the thermistor (the temperature sensor) is located so I can check it?
Scott[/QUOTE]

Hi Scott,

On the Explorer I believe it is located behind the grille fastened to the AC condenser support, probably on the driver's side. Should be black. May have a pointed (cone shaped) tip on it or be slightly domed on the end. If you remove it and jumper the connections with a paper clip the temperature should read very high, like 144 or something. An open circuit
(nothing connected) reads very low temps and you will probably get a freeze warning for several seconds on the display. I adapted my 99 Explorer sourced O.H. console into my 93 Ranger and ordered a sensor. It was reading incorrectly so I bought a brand new one, only to find it too was not correct. I ended up connecting the two sensors in parallel along with a resistor to bring it into the proper range and it works fine now. I don't think I have the exact sensors I needed but already bought two. Oh well, perhaps the two average together and make it a tiny bit more accurate.

In your case I'd be suspicious of the connector plug on the console. Recheck it to see if a wire has backed out of the connector or if it isn't seated completely. Too much of a coincidence the sensor chose to die on you when you serviced the console for a dead display. :)
 






Does anyone with the manual for the electrical wiring diagram know where the thermistor (the temperature sensor) is located so I can check it?
Scott

Hi Scott,

On the Explorer I believe it is located behind the grille fastened to the AC condenser support, probably on the driver's side. Should be black. May have a pointed (cone shaped) tip on it or be slightly domed on the end. If you remove it and jumper the connections with a paper clip the temperature should read very high, like 144 or something. An open circuit
(nothing connected) reads very low temps and you will probably get a freeze warning for several seconds on the display. I adapted my 99 Explorer sourced O.H. console into my 93 Ranger and ordered a sensor. It was reading incorrectly so I bought a brand new one, only to find it too was not correct. I ended up connecting the two sensors in parallel along with a resistor to bring it into the proper range and it works fine now. I don't think I have the exact sensors I needed but already bought two. Oh well, perhaps the two average together and make it a tiny bit more accurate.

In your case I'd be suspicious of the connector plug on the console. Recheck it to see if a wire has backed out of the connector or if it isn't seated completely. Too much of a coincidence the sensor chose to die on you when you serviced the console for a dead display. :)[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the info I will go look for it when I get home tonight. I will see if I can find the value for the thermistor and see if I can locate one that will be within the range? I thought about the OHC connector but it never worked when I got it till I did the FIX and then it still didn't work for several days and then it just started working. I was able to re-calibrate the compass and confirm it is functioning correctly with my GPS so the connector itself should be good. It is reading -40C so it is LOW meaning an open circuit. Perhaps the wires got pulled or cut? who knows I will check it out and can close the circuit at that location and check the reading as you noted. I wish had a picture of what it looks like exactly but base on your location should be able to find it there. I knew it had to be some where up front like a bumper to get an accurate reading. I can check it's reading against the one in my wife's BUG as it is pretty accurate. If it's shot may try to pull one from a wreck as I imagine it is not one item that gets removed often :D

Again appreciate the info gives me a starting point.

Regards

Scott
 






Thanks. I did the push mode button in pretty hard and everything is working again. I called the dealer and they told me it could not be repaired. I told them it could. They said it's just better to buy a new one. They wanted $185 for the part. I hope this keeps working, otherwise I need to find someone with a soldering kit to fix it. Thanks again, for alittle while, hopefully not. LOL
 






Thanks. I did the push mode button in pretty hard and everything is working again. I called the dealer and they told me it could not be repaired. I told them it could. They said it's just better to buy a new one. They wanted $185 for the part. I hope this keeps working, otherwise I need to find someone with a soldering kit to fix it. Thanks again, for alittle while, hopefully not. LOL

Sure, it's better to buy a new vehicle too. Soldering it is easy, whether you use the old 510's or get new resistors
 






easier fix

UtahX - I did the push real hard technique for a while and eventually it quit working. I was ready to do the fix-it-yourself gig, but sent it in to siliconmethod.com. I used the posted instructions on how to dismantle the unit and sent silicon the guts. they fixed it and mailed it back to me. It was 1 week from the time I mailed it to them until they sent it back. I reinstalled it and it's been working perfectly. You can google them. I opted for the option that included postage. It was more than well worth the money. Sue

Thanks. I did the push mode button in pretty hard and everything is working again. I called the dealer and they told me it could not be repaired. I told them it could. They said it's just better to buy a new one. They wanted $185 for the part. I hope this keeps working, otherwise I need to find someone with a soldering kit to fix it. Thanks again, for alittle while, hopefully not. LOL
 






UtahX - I did the push real hard technique for a while and eventually it quit working. I was ready to do the fix-it-yourself gig, but sent it in to siliconmethod.com. I used the posted instructions on how to dismantle the unit and sent silicon the guts. they fixed it and mailed it back to me. It was 1 week from the time I mailed it to them until they sent it back. I reinstalled it and it's been working perfectly. You can google them. I opted for the option that included postage. It was more than well worth the money. Sue

Thanks. Well this morning it was working ok for alittle while. When the temp get's below 50 it does not want to work anymore, but over 50 and it stays on all the time. Go Figure.
 






Same issue i opened up my console at the resistor was only just hanging on, i stuck it with some tape, i did not expect this to work, and it didnt, i just need to find a soldering iron and re-solder it and hopefully it will work.

im driving across the coquihalla (hwy 5) and okanagan connector (hwy 97c) of friday and would like to know the temprature :)

Ford Explorer 2002 Sport Trac w/ Sunroof
 






Update: Excellent worked great i had trouble with the solder and thought i might have cookedit was soldering for about an hour. but no works great.

FYI, if you have a sunroof i found it easier to unscrew the switch entirely rather than trying to struggle with the difficult clips :)

thansk very much Thallarsen, you posted this nearly 6 years ago and its still help people now :)
 






Stock resistors will fail again...

Same issue i opened up my console at the resistor was only just hanging on, i stuck it with some tape, i did not expect this to work, and it didnt, i just need to find a soldering iron and re-solder it and hopefully it will work.

im driving across the coquihalla (hwy 5) and okanagan connector (hwy 97c) of friday and would like to know the temprature :)

Ford Explorer 2002 Sport Trac w/ Sunroof

I'd replace them with two from Radio Shack. The stock resistors obviously run too hot and this is what makes them desolder themselves (along with gravity, since upside down). I used a higher wattage resistor to better handle the current load imposed by the circuitry. Couple overly-warm running resistors and a couple of very hot summers and you have a recipe for problems. Putting the factory resistors back in place is a bit like running a space heater on a thin extension cord. It will get hot and eventually fail. Obviously a design flaw that needs correcting, by us.
 






just tried this fix out today and now temp and compass are working great
 






ford f-150 is the exact same board.

I have a 2003 ford sport trac and a 2001 ford f-150.to my surprise the circuit boards were just alike.and a little solder fixed both of them right up.I also believe they will inter change with each other.
 






Our 2000 Sport's consul went out a few days ago. Smacked it around a little bit, came on and faded out. I came on here and found the sticky.

THANK YOU!

We may opt to buy a new one as one of the lights also quit working (about 2 months earlier) and the brass bands routing the power pretty much disappeared.
 






Ford XLT Console Working again

The display on our console has not worked for two years. I followed your instructions and examined the circuit board. One 510 resistor fell out as I lifted the white plastic cover. I carefully re-soldered it back, and touched, with the soldering iron, the resistor next to it. I connected it for testing and it all worked! Thanks again for your excellent post.
 






Is there anyone in Southern NJ that would know how to do this that I could take it to?
 






Thallarsen, I was looking at mine {a '95 Bronco Eddie Bauer} And it all looks the same, the only difference is mine has two 512 resistors. Could this be the problem?

I had to use the magnifying glass to see the number...

Any help would be greatly appreciated,

Allcruisen

allcruisenauto@yahoo.com

I have a 2001 ford f-150 and the other three were loose..use your fingernail and if you can lift on any side of any of them..thats the problem..Thallarsen's fix worked perfect.
 



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how about a place other than ford to purchase it? One of my "know it all" friends claimed the contacts were just dirty and sprayed the darn thing down with an electrical cleaner, and it melted all the plastic.
 






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