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pics of everyones system

mike, no i wont be at the meeting, im moving up to idaho for a year on the 22nd. sorry.

p.s.- great systems guys, keep em commin :)
 



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It seems to me, a sub with a high rms is nothing more than an inefficient sub, spl is about volume moreso than wattage. I mean think about it this way, if you can hit 135.9 with 2 JL12w0s at like $96 a sub and a cheap 400 watt MTX amp, why would you go out of your way to try ahd run 2 800rms subs that will wind up hitting the same thing? beleive it or not there are some subs that are terriblly inefficient out there, this is most likley a possible situation.

A prime example of this is the MTX RFL. .or as I like to call it the "ROFL" the thing is like 4000 rms and I've been told only did like.. in the 150s? 4000rms should be able to blow a hole in the ground and kill people heh
 






My pics will be up sometime this week. hopefully friday maybe??? i'll take pics once i put my Clarion amp back in tomorrow.

Steve
 






darkfox is right...

if i would have to add to my system, i would first buy another amp, more power is more DB's .... you can hit 135's with 2 12"....well don't add another speaker but add another 1000 watts in amp ;)....sounds better to me too...plsu it doesn't cost as much space...
 






WOW!!!!

Originally posted by TerraBomb
Here’s my system:
It’s not completely finished yet.... I haven't had the time lately to work on it.. the amp in the pics are obsolete and been replaced by an Earthquake D2 amp ....


try.jpg

Nice set-up man, that's what I want to do, to the T!!! Tell me.. people tell me not to go near Pyramid amps, is this true. I believed this until I came by your set-up, it looks mean, and yet you RAN a Pyramid amp; my question is, are they any good, if so.. I am going to score me a couple of them! Why did you get a new amp, did you not like the Pyramid?

Regards,

Peter Skingle

ilikedellcomputers
 






Originally posted by TerraBomb
darkfox is right...

if i would have to add to my system, i would first buy another amp, more power is more DB's .... you can hit 135's with 2 12"....well don't add another speaker but add another 1000 watts in amp ;)....sounds better to me too...plsu it doesn't cost as much space...

actually i was the one saying that more power is better. darkfox was stating that subs that don't handle as much are more efficient. true to an extent. it depends on the sensitvity rating.

an audiobahn AW1205X 12"handles 1000 watts rms, it has a sensitvity rating of 93db(2.83-V input@1meter).

the kicker solo baric L7 12" handles 375 watts rms, it has a sensitvity rating of 89db(2.83-V input@1meter).

the audiobahn sub is more efficient, is capable of handling more power, has triple stacked 180oz. magnets, and hits MUCH harder.

i wouldn't waste money on the kicker, it costs more and doesn't perform as well. i'm not saying kicker is bad, i just dont like a SPL sub that isn't built for SPL. basically it's just a sub with poor SQ.

for example:

Terrabomb, would you trade your EARTHQUAKE sub for a Kicker????


...didn't think so
 






Hey Peter man, stay far, far away from Pyramid (no offense Terrabomb). I'd melt it down and make it into a cup holder before I let it power my system. I just don't want to see you waste your money on a couple of them, just to be disappointed. There are many, many better choices out there.

peace

Mike
 






does anyone else have pics of their 2 12'' set up like darkfox's?? if you do id like to see them. thanks
 






I agree mike.. pyramid=bad and sick, theres not many on there EXACTLY like mine, but theres a lot of good ideas on www.sounddomain.com theres something like.. 3 mountaineers and 55 explorers or so there, lots of good ideas if ya have the time to look at em all
 






pyramid

i dont know where you guys get your info but its prob not from experience...i have 4 12" Pyramid 1000watt subs and im running a 1400 watt amp to them and they just WOMP on anything i put them against...but umm what do i know its not like i install stereo's....o wait i do haha anyway i mean for them money why not if the die on you after a few months thats life but you'll still get A LOT of headaches (from the sound) while you have them!
 






try not to brag.. you're not the only person thats installed a stereo before, I admit I'm not a master at it, but I know what I'm doing enough to get it done, and just because you INSTALL doesn't mean you know everything about brands. There is a shop down the road from me that sells pyramid, and yea, maybe you do get some bump from those, but I'd imagine most any other sub can get twice the sound with half the #.. what DB are you hitting?

btw.. your amp doesn't say "max" on it anywhere does it? what brand is it?

ps wanna know why they are called pyramid? turn one upside down and look at it from the side.. /\ huge cone.. tiny magnet

I'm not trying to attack anyone, I realize this post may seem to have a bit of an edge, I apologize for that.

If anyone wants to talk about some audio stuff, feel free to come to #caraudio on irc.dal.net
 






Where is it you buy Pyramid? Wal-Mart? Okay...what does that say to you about it's quality? First thing...the wattage that they print in huge bold letters on the outside is pure BS. Here's why:

Ohms law: Watts = Volts * Amps

Let's use a "1000 Watt" amp as an example. 1000W divided by 14 volts (approx. what you get when your car is running) is 71 Amps. Now, that amp gets hot, right? That means that it is using power to make that heat. In truth, most amps are only about 50% efficient, meaning that the current draw from your alternator and battery is actually close to DOUBLE the power the amp is actually putting out. For the sake of argument, let's give it the benefit of the doubt and say that it's 75% efficient instead of 50%. That's still 106 Amps of power. So...ummm....what size is the fuse on that pyramid 1000W amp? Last one I looked at was 30A. The 1000W figure that they give you is what is known as the "JBF" rating....that's "Just Before Flames".

What you should really do if you are on a tight budget, is find yourself something used. Look for about 5 years old, and a major brand name (Alpine, Rockford, Phoenix Gold, etc.) and if it's for subs...aim for about 100-200 watts per sub. It's a far more realistic number, and you will be much happier with the results.

Hope that helps!
 






My system isn't show quality or close to competition but it's silmple and sounds good. I installed it all myself. Sorry, no pics yet. Anyways the above post is pretty good idea on money savings. I'm running an old ass Fosgate punch 100 amp. You know thoe old black one with cooling fins and cast metal end caps. The one that came out just before the colorful amps. I'm using it bridged pushing a single 12" Fosgate. I honestly don't remember the sub model but I only paid maybe $100 for it. I have it mounted in a bandpass box. You can hear me coming. I'm running an Eclipse head unit and 4 year old, used, 4 channel Kenwood amp pushing the stock JBL premium door speakers. Basically this system, excluding the head unit, is probably 5 years old and is in it's 3rd vehicle. It's never skipped a beat and just keeps pounding away. You should be able to find some older used equipment really cheap that will still beat you up!!!

By the way, I'm not into the stereo lingo. I know I like how mine sounds and don't really plan on making changes until some of my OLD equipment fries. What's SQ and SPL? I see this talked about all the time. Can someone explain POR FAVOR!!
 






SQ=Sound Quality. These systems are set up for accurate sound reproduction.

SPL=Sound Pressure Level, but in this case it is used to describe systems that are set up to be loud more than anything else. SQ is not a priority in these installs (sometimes).

Hope that helped!

peace

Mike
 






I guessed that that was what the SQ standed for. I could not figure out what the SPL was though. Is SPL a measure of DBs or is it the amount of air movement? Or, are these two things hand in hand with each other. I ask cause of the word PRESSURE in the name, this to me would kinda be associated with the feeling of the bass hit. I personally would rather have sound quality. I want to hear the individual drum hits on my Bad Religion, Pennywise, Punk stuff. Although it is cool to feel the rumble listening to DMX or Pink Floyd (for you older classic rock, or stoned people) I think my system produces pretty accurate sound quality which I attribut to the HU cause of it's adjusting capabilities. Then again I've never sat in a true system set up for SQ so I don't know how much better it could be!!

Thanks for your clarification. If you could elaborate a little more on the measurement of SPL and what it is that would be cool for my own personal info? DBs vs. Feeling the hit?
 






Hey, sirhk100

dB vs. Feel of the hit would normally go hand-in-hand. The bass that you "feel" is normally between about 15Hz (most systems can't really do that, btw) and about 150Hz. When you are doing SPL competition, you just try to get as many dBs as possible. The way to do that is lots of subwoofers, lots of power, and a bass-test disk at around 40-80Hz (that can change, depending on the system). So, I guess to sum it up, the dB is a measurement of how much air you can move.

Hopefully I answered your question (at least a little bit). If not, we can get a whole lot more scientific about it *grin*. I used to do SPL competitions about 3 years ago, when 140dBs was a LOT, and 150dBs was just a dream.... It's scary to think that most SPL vehicles out there these days can blow that away. Oh, well...that's to be expected!
 






In competitions, SPL is measured in decibles. Measurements are taken at the passenger's kick panel. SPL competitions these days are pretty intense. The shop that did my system last year did an old K5 Blazer for an SPL vehicle. It had 6 Digital Designs carbon fiber subs and around 10,000 watts for Earthquake power. I think they came close to 160dB. Anyway, my system is set up specifically for SQ though, and it's not even finished yet (damn addictive hobby). Like you, I really like to hear all the details in my music, especially the bass. I just bought a new a/d/s/ sub which is supposed to be one of the most accurate on the market. Now if I can find the time to install it...

peace

Mike
 






Mike92XLT,

Which of the a/d/s subs did you pick up? I am running 2 of the RS10, and I have to say...I haven't heard a better sounding sub in my lifetime. Pretty amazing for a 10" sub to have an Fs of 17Hz!

Also, when did they start measuring SPL at the kick panel? When I used to compete, it was at the passenger's head level. Man, I wish they would have done it under the dash back then...my system was over 150dB down there, dangit!
 






Hey Josh

Yeah, that's why they started taking measurements at the kick panel, it was louder :).

I got the a/d/s/ 310rs.2. It was one of the cleanest subs I have ever heard, and it's great to hear that you have had such a good experience with yours. Very encouraging! It's all broken in and ready to be installed. Hopefully this weekend.

peace

Mike
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

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how do i get my pic on here?please help.
 






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