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Power door locks

I almost bought a all blue Premier Mountaineer before I bought our red/tan Monterrey back in 2012. I was on my way to buy it, with money in hand, and the SOB sold it from under me when I was 1/2 way to his house (on a 2 hour drive). I was pissed.

Sorry to hear that, I liked that color. When I found out from my parts man that the only colors they made with painted grille, were that blue and a green, I wanted to get the blue grille. I ended up with the green one, it was about $15 cheaper. I don't know how hard it would be to find one now, I've never seen one in person here. That green is ugly, my 99 Limited was that color when I got it, now it's my old 93 dark green. This below is the grille with a 3rd gen emblem laying on it.

2000Grille.JPG
 



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Yeah I prefer the blue over the green, but I don't like the monochromatic paint scheme that much. I like a bit of chrome. The things I like the least about my EB are the fender flares and the front end. The Mountaineer looks larger than the EB because it doesn't have the fender flares.
 






I had the 01 Mountaineer Premier which was monochromatic blue back in 01.

That was a 2WD 5.0 with all of the toys.

I had that one when I lived in Charlotte.

The day after Thanksgiving they used to have, they may still I don't know, a sale day at the ace track, Charlotte Motor Speedway, to clearance the leftover Nascar merchandise.

For every $50 you spent you got a certificate good for 3 laps on the track in your car.

I have pics someplace of that Mountaineer on the track.

Real Kodak type pics, pre digital ones.

That was a blast.

I rolled that one 4 1/2 times thanks to someone crossing into my lane on a country road.

I would like to find a paintable grill for my 00 Mountie.
 






I had the 01 Mountaineer Premier which was monochromatic blue back in 01.

That was a 2WD 5.0 with all of the toys.

I had that one when I lived in Charlotte.

The day after Thanksgiving they used to have, they may still I don't know, a sale day at the ace track, Charlotte Motor Speedway, to clearance the leftover Nascar merchandise.

For every $50 you spent you got a certificate good for 3 laps on the track in your car.

I have pics someplace of that Mountaineer on the track.

Real Kodak type pics, pre digital ones.

That was a blast.

I rolled that one 4 1/2 times thanks to someone crossing into my lane on a country road.

I would like to find a paintable grill for my 00 Mountie.

How about painting a chrome one like this person did? I liked this when I first saw it online, and may try that too.

Mountaineer painted grille, center made smaller.jpg
 






Hey Guys' I've run into another problem now. I replaced the original front white exterior door handles with black ones of which I ordered 4. I figured that the rear ones would be even easier Man was I wrong, as the rear window guide won't drop out of the way like the front did so now I can't gain access to the connecting rod or the door handle itself. This in turn causes another problem because these new handles bolt in using 5/16 X1/2 inch long bolts and a lock nut. Any ideas? I did post a thread about this but you all have helped me so much I thought to ask you all. Thanks again.
 






I wish I could help, I don't recall a problem like that when I did my 99 truck 11 years ago. I swapped all of my door wiring and handles in 2006. I used the 1/4" black rivets for all of the handles, though I did use 1993 rear doors. Someone should respond to your other thread soon.

What is stopping the window guide from coming out?
 






I really can't see what is holding the rear window guide. On the front I only had to remove 1 11mm bolt and pull slightly on it. On the rear It seems to me that that guide reaches up and out of the door all the way to the top rear portion of the window and is snug against the 1/4 glass. I removed one 11mm bolt just like on the front but I can yank as hard as I want and no go.
 






The rear small window in the rear door is an assembly including the rubber and support channel around it. That may be what is part of what's stopping you from moving the window guide. But it's been so long I forgot what that rear guide looks like or how it attaches.

I searched for help from threads about changing the rear door regulators. That didn't help much, but here's the best thread about replacing the rear regulators;
How To: First Gen Rear Window with Cables Fix
 






I've replaced an exterior rear door handles and don't recall having any exceptional problems. It's definitely more difficult than that replacing a front door handle, but it was doable. As I recall, the one I had to installed had been removed by the PO and the rod was missing too. I got a new handle on eBay, painted it to match and got a used rod from someone here. I wish I remembered exactly what I had to do to install in, but the only difficulty I recall was that it was hard to install the rearmost nut and lock washer due to the tight space.

I've also had to replace all the guts in a rear door (every part except the window glass, which I removed and reinstalled) on another Explorer and that wasn't that hard to do. Took me about 1/2 day as I recall. With persistence all things are doable, and I'm nothing if not persistent.

Have you looked on YouTube for a video? I do recall the glass guide is attached (probably riveted) to the center of the door and to the window/regulator itself, but I know for a fact I didn't have to mess with all that stuff just to replace the handle.
 






I've replaced an exterior rear door handles and don't recall having any exceptional problems. It's definitely more difficult than that replacing a front door handle, but it was doable. As I recall, the one I had to installed had been removed by the PO and the rod was missing too. I got a new handle on eBay, painted it to match and got a used rod from someone here. I wish I remembered exactly what I had to do to install in, but the only difficulty I recall was that it was hard to install the rearmost nut and lock washer due to the tight space.

I've also had to replace all the guts in a rear door (every part except the window glass, which I removed and reinstalled) on another Explorer and that wasn't that hard to do. Took me about 1/2 day as I recall. With persistence all things are doable, and I'm nothing if not persistent.

Have you looked on YouTube for a video? I do recall the glass guide is attached (probably riveted) to the center of the door and to the window/regulator itself, but I know for a fact I didn't have to mess with all that stuff just to replace the handle.
 






I'll take another look tomorrow, When I tried to un latch the clip from the rod I could not even do that for lack of room. I can't imagine what it will be like bolting the new latch to the rear doors. I have skinny arms and long fingers. If you did it I guess I should be able to get it done. Thanks for the encouragement.
 






Yes, the glass is riveted to a bracket under it, which rides in the regulator assembly. I have to go into my LR door soon too, the window doesn't move and I'm sure the motor pucks are bad. I'll see about installing the 99 regulator I saved from the original vehicle that I rebuilt.

I used all of the 99 door handles so I went through the deal of R&Ring them all. I cleaned up and sanded all of the old handles to be repainted, taped them off, etc. The door install wasn't bad compared to swapping the key cylinders to 1st gen doors, and hatch. The 2nd gen's have larger openings, so tedious grinding/filing had to be done.

Go slow and you can get it done, just be careful enough to not hurt yourself, on jagged edges etc.
 






I'll take another look tomorrow, When I tried to un latch the clip from the rod I could not even do that for lack of room. I can't imagine what it will be like bolting the new latch to the rear doors. I have skinny arms and long fingers. If you did it I guess I should be able to get it done. Thanks for the encouragement.

For what it's work I have large arms and shorter fingers. I have a little tool I've used to catch the release on the yellow plastic clips and pull them open. I can't say that I needed it on that repair, but it's possible. Keep in mind my original rod was missing.
 






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