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Power outlet question

PIU770

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Joined
February 17, 2022
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Location
Brooklyn, NY
City, State
Brooklyn, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
2016 Ford PIU
So I was hardwiring my dashcam and was using this little current tester thing that just lights up on contact.

Was toying around to see if it was grounded and poped in the cigarette lighter/12v/AC outlet where I charge my phone, and POP!...

Now it doesn't work.

I have a civilian console installed which has 3 12v ports only the one I blew was connected though, the second power harness that has a T shaped connector wasn't plugged in and is too short to reach the second receptacle at the storage compartment.

I'm not knowledgeable in electrical at all, what do I have to do to:

A. Get my original one under the stereo working again.

B. Perhaps connect the second one to a harness that is too short.

Thanks for your help.
 



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So I was hardwiring my dashcam and was using this little current tester thing that just lights up on contact.

Was toying around to see if it was grounded and poped in the cigarette lighter/12v/AC outlet where I charge my phone, and POP!...

Now it doesn't work.

I have a civilian console installed which has 3 12v ports only the one I blew was connected though, the second power harness that has a T shaped connector wasn't plugged in and is too short to reach the second receptacle at the storage compartment.

I'm not knowledgeable in electrical at all, what do I have to do to:

A. Get my original one under the stereo working again.

B. Perhaps connect the second one to a harness that is too short.

Thanks for your help.

This happened to me last year (totally different vehicle, not even a Ford). All I had to do was change out the fuse and it worked again! Hopefully it's as simple for you! And FYI, literally just yesterday my brother helped me extend the 2nd t shaped connector at the front of the console to reach the power point at the rear of the console. My console still had the donor wires. I found the 2 wires (black & white and I think orange & white) and used those to connect to the front. Now I have a working power point at the back too!
I tried tonight and was unsuccessful at editing the timeout in FORScan. Was really hoping to allow the points to get power for 24 hours or at least a good 4-5 hours but I can't get it to change from the default 75 minutes.
 






This happened to me last year (totally different vehicle, not even a Ford). All I had to do was change out the fuse and it worked again! Hopefully it's as simple for you! And FYI, literally just yesterday my brother helped me extend the 2nd t shaped connector at the front of the console to reach the power point at the rear of the console. My console still had the donor wires. I found the 2 wires (black & white and I think orange & white) and used those to connect to the front. Now I have a working power point at the back too!
I tried tonight and was unsuccessful at editing the timeout in FORScan. Was really hoping to allow the points to get power for 24 hours or at least a good 4-5 hours but I can't get it to change from the default 75 minutes.
So I don't think my problem is the fuse. Because I temporarily popped the socket out of the storage compartment and just plugged it in to the second connector, it's just dangling on the side for now and working. So I'm thinking its the actual front socket itself. I don't mind moving the rear socket that's next to the rear ac controls (that don't even work) but I can't figure out how to pop it out without taking out the whole console.

Do you happen to have some pictures of the work you did?
 






So I don't think my problem is the fuse. Because I temporarily popped the socket out of the storage compartment and just plugged it in to the second connector, it's just dangling on the side for now and working. So I'm thinking its the actual front socket itself. I don't mind moving the rear socket that's next to the rear ac controls (that don't even work) but I can't figure out how to pop it out without taking out the whole console.

Do you happen to have some pictures of the work you did?
Sadly, I do not. I intended on documenting the entire thing but quickly forgot about that and focused on doing the work. I removed the console again so my brother could solder the wires (my car was parked too far away for the extension cord to reach his soldering iron.)
You want to remove the power point from the rear of the console (above the cup holders) and pop it into the front, correct? You should be able to do it without removing the console from the vehicle. Pop the exterior trim off from the rear and sides. Once those are loose you should have enough room to pull back the rear part and get your fingers around the rear power point. I think we're speaking the same language? If not, take a pic of your console and scribble on it.
 






Oh, wait. You mentioned you have rear ac controls, I don't have that. I ordered a base 2wd model center console. It actually has the cutout for where the controls would be. I just put some black duck tape on it. I don't know if that makes your console entirely different from mine or not. I'll get pics for you tomorrow though. I messed with the console so much that I can basically describe every part to you and how to disassemble/reassemble. Just want to make sure I understand what you're trying to accomplish.
 






So I was hardwiring my dashcam and was using this little current tester thing that just lights up on contact.

Was toying around to see if it was grounded and poped in the cigarette lighter/12v/AC outlet where I charge my phone, and POP!...

Now it doesn't work.

I have a civilian console installed which has 3 12v ports only the one I blew was connected though, the second power harness that has a T shaped connector wasn't plugged in and is too short to reach the second receptacle at the storage compartment.

I'm not knowledgeable in electrical at all, what do I have to do to:

A. Get my original one under the stereo working again.

B. Perhaps connect the second one to a harness that is too short.

Thanks for your help.
Does anybody know which fuses in the interior cabin fuse box are for the two AC power outlets?

I successfully swapped the wires so now the one under the console is working, but I'd like to get the second one working so I can extend it to the middle of the center console or to the rear outlet on a civilian console that I have installed.
 






Does anybody know which fuses in the interior cabin fuse box are for the two AC power outlets?

I successfully swapped the wires so now the one under the console is working, but I'd like to get the second one working so I can extend it to the middle of the center console or to the rear outlet on a civilian console that I have installed.
So I just found it online, and they're actually in the engine bay fuse box.

Number 60 and 62 they are each a 20 amp fuse.
 






So I just found it online, and they're actually in the engine bay fuse box.

Number 60 and 62 they are each a 20 amp fuse.
They are also listed in your Owner's Manual on page 173 of the 3rd printing.

Peter
 






So I was hardwiring my dashcam and was using this little current tester thing that just lights up on contact.

Was toying around to see if it was grounded and poped in the cigarette lighter/12v/AC outlet where I charge my phone, and POP!...

Now it doesn't work.

I have a civilian console installed which has 3 12v ports only the one I blew was connected though, the second power harness that has a T shaped connector wasn't plugged in and is too short to reach the second receptacle at the storage compartment.

I'm not knowledgeable in electrical at all, what do I have to do to:

A. Get my original one under the stereo working again.

B. Perhaps connect the second one to a harness that is too short.

Thanks for your help.
The reason this happen is because the button on the inside of the lighter is your hot (positive) and your outside metal is your ground (negative)
This is called a short circuit when you touch both with something conductive. BTW When I was growing up a neighbor licked his finger and stuck it inside the cigarette lighter. It was a shocking experience for the guy. Don't do this. The electricity kept going as long as his finger was touching the button and the metal part. The reason it didn't pop a fuse is called resistance; it was not a direct short.
Electrical class 101 is done for today.
 






The reason this happen is because the button on the inside of the lighter is your hot (positive) and your outside metal is your ground (negative)
This is called a short circuit when you touch both with something conductive. BTW When I was growing up a neighbor licked his finger and stuck it inside the cigarette lighter. It was a shocking experience for the guy. Don't do this. The electricity kept going as long as his finger was touching the button and the metal part. The reason it didn't pop a fuse is called resistance; it was not a direct short.
Electrical class 101 is done for today.
So why is it no longer working then?

I tried swapping the outlet with another and still that harness is no longer working?

Any recommendations?
 






So why is it no longer working then?

I tried swapping the outlet with another and still that harness is no longer working?

Any recommendations?
You will need to look in one of he two fuse boxes.
Their locations are:
#1: under the hood /driver's side/near the fender/about 10"long
#2 Inside the vehicle/driver's side/ left foot area way up inside [some dumb-ass designed it in a really great place]
You do know how to check fuses, don't you?
 






You will need to look in one of he two fuse boxes.
Their locations are:
#1: under the hood /driver's side/near the fender/about 10"long
#2 Inside the vehicle/driver's side/ left foot area way up inside [some dumb-ass designed it in a really great place]
You do know how to check fuses, don't you?
Yes I can check a fuse with the tester thing that I by mistake blew the fuse with, tap it with the tester and if it doesn't light up I know it's dead.
 






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