Power Window issues

[Chunkyboy124]

So is my situation:

I bought a 1998 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer from a friend of ours who had recently had a (newer) engine put into it. That's not the problem. Since I have had it, I have had problems with the window/lock/control module on the drivers door. The window lock used to work but now it doesn't. The Door Lock has not worked since I bout it. The window switches work fine. The doors have to be lock from the passenger side or from the remote for the vehicle. I am having issues with the window lock switch not working now because I have a 3 yr old who likes to roll the windows down whether we are in a blizzard or not. Any help would be great as I have checked to make sure all the connectors are connected properly I have run out of ideas and don't have but a ground tester to check things with.

 

[J_C]

Most common problem is a frayed wire in the rubber boot that goes between the door and the front fender, which would be soldered back together with heatshrink tubing over the joint or ideally a new piece of high strand count wire placed in the joint area so the solder joints on both sides of it are slipped back, away from the wires' flex area. While you're at it, you might find some other wires in the bundle are looking like they're about due for the same treatment.

 

[koda2000]

Most common problem is a frayed wire in the rubber boot that goes between the door and the front fender, which would be soldered back together with heatshrink tubing over the joint or ideally a new piece of high strand count wire placed in the joint area so the solder joints on both sides of it are slipped back, away from the wires' flex area. While you're at it, you might find some other wires in the bundle are looking like they're about due for the same treatment.

This is a fairly common failure point, however I'm wondering if the master window switch might be the issue. All the window switches work through the master switch. As the OP's windows work from their own door switches, I'm thinking his problem may be in the master switch.

OP, if you do want to check/repair the wiring in the driver's door jam bundle, don't be afraid to remove the door to give yourself room to work. It's really easy to do and there's really no adjustment to deal with when the door is reinstalled.

Regarding the door locks: In addition to a broken wire(s) in the driver's door bundle, another common failure point is a factory splice that is located under the carpet/driver's rear door threshold plate. The splice tends to corrode and turn green for some reason. The wire you're concerned with is pink or pink w/a green tracer (I don't recall which). The wires run to the lock/unlock relays located in the jack storage area near the RAP module. If you find the green corroded splice, cut it out and solder & heat shrink the wire together.

 

[Chunkyboy124]

Alright, I will look into it when the breakup happens here. I live in Alaska and don't have a garage to work on my cars. Thank you guys

 

[CDW6212R]

The driver's door lock switch not working properly is common in these 2nd gen Explorers. I have two out of three which that lock switch doesn't work. I've put new switches in both, but haven't yet dug into the door jamb wiring yet. I expect it to be that one wire from the LF lock switch, to where it goes inside.

The windows are all powered by one master power(blue/black) and black ground wire, in the LF door and jamb. If the windows stop working completely, look to those. If it's two switches for one window not working, expect the window motor gear drive to need help(the three plastic pucks). The switches are all very fragile, so if one switch doesn't seem to work, at this age it's time to replace the switch. Good luck and stay warm.