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Powerslot rotor issues

Gonzo

Elite Explorer<br><img src="/forums/images/stars4.
Joined
January 10, 2002
Messages
573
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City, State
Vancouver, Wa
Year, Model & Trim Level
'98 Sport
I installed the powerslot rotors a few weeks ago, and there seems to be a lot more nose dive when braking. I was thinking maybe the increased braking performance is causing the nose to dive, but I really haven't noticed much of an improvement. I also have been following the break-in instructions, and didn't really want to mash the pedal yet because I have only had them on for about 200 mi. Will the performance increase once they are broken in? Could the rear brakes not be working right? Does anyone have any opinions on why this may be?
 



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did you do all four wheels or just the front.

try a firmer setting on the ranchos in the front
 






Increased braking in front only will definitely cause nose dive.
 






I'd say its time to upgrade the rear as well.
 






I assume when you installed your new rotors you also installed new pads?

The new pads in combo with the slotted rotors could attribute to better braking....
 






I replaced all four rotors and all the pads. I played around with the ranchos by hand before I put them on, and it seems like the adjustment only controls the rebound, not the compression of the shock. I have been looking around for a set of 4-door leaf springs to get rid of the rear sag from the mono-leaf. Someone on here said when they switched to the 4-door leaf pack, it decreased the nose dive when braking. Is that really true?
 






it should i am not at all a fan of the mono leaf setup. might be able to get by with add a leafs though
 






How about upgrading your front springs? Shocks are for rebounding.
 






There aren't any springs in 2nd gen Explorers. I've been toying with the idea of doing that as soon as I get some money. Thanks for letting me know about the possible side effects.
 






Originally posted by '96explorereddiebauer
There aren't any springs in 2nd gen Explorers.

Huh? coil springs in front and leaf springs in back.
 






I thnk he means he has torsion bars up front.

If you just installed the Ranchos play around with them. I have all 4 of mine set on 7 right now and it really stiffened up the suspension for the street. I get alot of nose dive etc because my truck rides on Skyjacker springs (soft) front and rear.....

It could also be your torsion bars have lost their torsion :)
Upgrading to the 4 door leaf pack will help the rear and you can look into getting some different torsion bars up front, I believe they came in 3 different spring rates from Ford????
 






2nd gens have torsion bars up front, leaves in rear. Someday I might go solid up front, so I'd rather save up for that than start putting any $$ into t-bars. I aired the tires up from 30 to 35, and surprisingly that seems to help a little. I think I will go ahead and try different settings on the ranchos, and also wait for a few hundred more miles (break in period).
 






torsion bars are very cheap i think like $50 a bar. if you do get them get the stiffest ones i think you will see a big improvement
 






What kind of brake pads are you running? The slotted rotors are not really going to improve stopping power. They will warp less then stock rotors, therefore they last longer. The longevity is the real value of the Powerslots.

We've had good results with the Carbon Metallic Pads from Performance friction.

It is also true about the rear brakes. If the rear pads/rotors are glazed you stopping power will be effected.

Nose diving is telling you that the front brake are working. Perhaps better than the rears?
 






if you say the control only seem to control the rebound try cranking up the rears all the way and if that helps slowly turn em back down until you are good
 






Yeh, I think rear springs will affect the weight transfer when braking. If the springs aren't holding up the body the way they used to, they also will not resist body movement the other direction.

Any chance the rear calipers are not seating like they should? Fluid level OK? Uhh... (head scratching)
 






if you have ford pads in the back take em out and get some carbon metalic the ford ones were designed with noise and brake dust before stopping power
 






Thanks for all the feedback. I do have the Carbon Metallic Pads from Performance friction. The only thing I can of is that the front brakes may be grabbing better than before. I also only have about 200 mi. on the new pads/rotors. The instructions say to allow 3-500 mi. for break-in period, so maybe I'll wait 'till then before I worry too much about it. So t-bars are only like $50? Is that new or used? About how much would it be to have them replaced? I don't have the special tool to do it.
 






ya actually 45 from fpn. you can do it with a 3 jaw puller rented from autozone. teh speacial tool is not necessary
 



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dont even need the puller. I have done several torsion bars by disconecting all front suspension and lowering the control arm *** WARNING *** this is not a safe way persay. If you get hurt its your own fault for trying.
CYA section over. I can do torsion bars in about 45 mins each with no special tools
 






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