probably an easy fix for you guys

[jchamzc]

I am having a problem with one new speaker I installed it is the model listed below and I have posted the radio specs as well. I am getting popping and distortion when I turn the volume up to 18 on a scale of 40 (no Amplifier). I have some alpine sps-507 in the back and don't have this problem... Did I do something wrong or is the speaker bad?

Infinity Kappa 682.9cf
6" x 8" (5" x 7") Kappa Series 2-way Speakers
Power Handling:
Peak: 600 watts per pair / 300 watts each
RMS: 200 watts per pair / 100 watts each
Woven glass fiber cone woofer
Rubber surround
Edge driven MMD dome tweeter
Unipivot patented rotating tweeter allows tweeter to be directed at the listener's location
Direct connect computer-optimized, voice-matched outboard passive crossover for superb detail and accuracy
Tweeter level adjustment on tweeter by simply rotating the tweeter to add or subtract 3 dB output
2 ohms impedance
Top-mount depth: 2-7/8"

I have an after market Kenwood KDC-mp205 radio/cd/mp player with these specs:
Kenwood KDC MP205 - radio / CD / MP3 player specifications
General
Product Type Radio / CD / MP3 player
Recommended Use Car
Form Factor Full-DIN - In-dash unit
Width 7.2 in
Depth 6.1 in
Height 2.1 in
Weight 3.1 lbs
Faceplate Type Detachable
Audio System
Sound output mode Stereo
Sound effects Bass Boost
Equalizer Yes
Audio system controls Balance , Fader , Loudness , Midrange , Treble , Bass
Amplifier max output power / channel qty 50 Watts x 4
Amplifier continuous power / channel qty 22 Watts x 4
Audio system built-in display Fluorescent
Clock Yes (digital)
Additional features Telephone mute
Equalizer
Equalizer factory presets Jazz , Rock , Pops , Easy , Flat , Top40
Radio
Type Radio tuner - AM/FM
Tuner frequency range AM: 530 - 1700 kHz , FM: 87.9 - 107.9 MHz
Tuning display Fluorescent display
AM station preset qty 6.0
FM station preset qty 18.0
Radio response bandwidth -14970.0 Hz
Radio signal-to-noise ratio 70.0 dB
Additional radio features Preset buttons
CD System
CD system type CD / MP3 player
CD system form factor In-dash unit
Media load type Slot-load
Playback modes Random play / shuffle , One track repeat , Intro scan
Digital audio standards supported MP3 , WMA
CD system response bandwidth -19990.0 Hz
Signal-to-noise ratio 93.0 dB
CD system total harmonic distortion 0.01%
CD system dynamic range 93.0 dB
Connections
Connector Type 1.0 x Audio line-out ( Mini-phone stereo 3.5 mm ) , 1.0 x Audio line-in ( RCA phono x 2 )

 

[617ricky]

I don't think it's related to the problem you're having, but 22w RMS is too low for those speakers..

 

[jchamzc]

Why is that? Crutchfield advertises that these can be used on stock radios with out an amplifier.

any idea on what the problem might be?

 

[mmbretts]

still using the factory amp?

 

[PandorasCustoms]

Give a little fex manually to the woofer and see what you get.
If you hear crunching noise, then the coil might be bad.

Other than that, popping noises seem to come from bad terminal connections.

Also, does it seem like the noise is generated during higher or lower notes?

 

[617ricky]

Why is that? Crutchfield advertises that these can be used on stock radios with out an amplifier.

Sure they "can" be used, you could connect basically any speaker to any source and get sound out of it - that's not saying it's ideal though.. I'm not an expert in audio, but I do know that you want your RMS ratings to be close if you want the proper performance out of your stuff.. While the speaker RMS should probably be a little higher than the source just to be safe, 100w RMS speakers should have at least 60-80w RMS going into them to give them justice IMO.. I bet it'd be a pretty substantial difference in sound quality vs. the 22w RMS from the deck alone.. Just think about it - you're only giving the speakers 22% of the power they're made to use.

 

[PandorasCustoms]

Sure they "can" be used, you could connect basically any speaker to any source and get sound out of it - that's not saying it's ideal though.. I'm not an expert in audio, but I do know that you want your RMS ratings to be close if you want the proper performance out of your stuff.. While the speaker RMS should probably be a little higher than the source just to be safe, 100w RMS speakers should have at least 60-80w RMS going into them to give them justice IMO.. I bet it'd be a pretty substantial difference in sound quality vs. the 22w RMS from the deck alone.. Just think about it - you're only giving the speakers 22% of the power they're made to use.

This is true and not ture. Many speaker manufacturer's incredibly over rate their RMS output. Have you ever hooked up 100 watts a piece to a set of 6x8 speakers? It is honestly not realistic to use that amount of power for a speaker that is not a high-end component set or a subwoofer.
Yes, the 22watts RMS is under powering the unit, but it will not hurt the unit to use less power. You just won't receive as high of performance out of them. And, the volume level on the head unit just won't produce as much volume to the ear.

 

[617ricky]

This is true and not ture. Many speaker manufacturer's incredibly over rate their RMS output. Have you ever hooked up 100 watts a piece to a set of 6x8 speakers? It is honestly not realistic to use that amount of power for a speaker that is not a high-end component set or a subwoofer.
Yes, the 22watts RMS is under powering the unit, but it will not hurt the unit to use less power. You just won't receive as high of performance out of them. And, the volume level on the head unit just won't produce as much volume to the ear.

Like I said I'm no expert, but isn't it "peak" power handling that's completely overrated to the point where the number is meaningless? I thought RMS had to be a reliable number.. But we're basically saying the same thing here, that while he "can" use them, he's just not getting anywhere near the performance the speakers are capable of..

 

[jchamzc]

Thanks for the information on the rms. In the future I will keep that in mind when I buy new components. It will come in handy.

How would I know if there is a factory amp? Where would it be located? I bought the vehicle with the stereo already install. I only replaced the speakers as they were the originals to the 1993 vehicle. Totally destroyed.

also could the popping be caused by the outboard passive crossover. This crossover 2 ohm design is is supposed to deliver much more "sound" (via power) even for a stock HU. see the video http://signature.crutchfield.com/s_...?search=Infinity+Kappa+682.9cf&ssi=0&tp=27899

 

[PandorasCustoms]

Like I said I'm no expert, but isn't it "peak" power handling that's completely overrated to the point where the number is meaningless? I thought RMS had to be a reliable number.. But we're basically saying the same thing here, that while he "can" use them, he's just not getting anywhere near the performance the speakers are capable of..

Yeah, your right, we are saying basically the same thing. It is just that some of the less reputable manufacturers will use different voltages and/or ohm loads to basically "stack the stats" on a speaker. And, then turn around and report these numbers as fact. That is essentially how peak comes into play. Less people do it with RMS, but I have seen that Wal-Mart brand "VR3" display RMS power of 100 watts for a 4" Coaxial speaker. Yeah, you probably could push 100 watts, but it will sound pretty nasty (And not that slang "Nasty" kinda like good).

And, I do apologize as I kind of jumped the gun on the power rating for the speakers as well. These guys here demand quite a bit of power as they are in fact a fairly decent mid-high quality set. These are technically components without a removable tweeter. These speakers should have at least 50 watts RMS pulled to run properly, although I still doubt the noise being generated is from under powering.

How would I know if there is a factory amp? Where would it be located? I bought the vehicle with the stereo already install. I only replaced the speakers as they were the originals to the 1993 vehicle. Totally destroyed.

Not all of the systems came with a factory amplifier installed. Only the Ford Premium and the Ford JBL systems did. The basic did not. Since you did not remove the factory head unit, I am not sure what else would clearly define which version you had. I know the amplifier (If it is there) will be under right rear panel, kind of ontop of the wheel well.

also could the popping be caused by the outboard passive crossover. This crossover 2 ohm design is is supposed to deliver much more "sound" (via power) even for a stock HU.

According to the Kenwood Owners Manual for this head unit the minumum OHM load for the speakers is supposed to be 4. So, running these in a 2-Ohm load may be causing problems. Are both of them making the noise? Or just one? From your original description, it sounds just like one. As a test, you can wire them in a 4-Ohm load, but that might take some finagling. It would also limit your ability to balance the speakers between left and right.

But, if that isn't a huge problem, you can use this wiring digram and basically hook them both up to the same front channel. It will allow you to produce a 4-Ohm load for the speakers. In order to get the full power from the head unit, you can just run two sets of speaker wire from them to the left and right front channels.

I know it is setup for subwoofers, but the same information applies for regualr speakers. Most diagrams are setup for subwoofers though and it was just easier to find.