This guy is right. I signed up just so I could confirm this and others can read it.
This describes a way to get more air out of the clutch hydraulic line when bleeding the clutch. We were working on a 1995 Ford Explorer and I can't speak for other models.
Basically, you don't want to have air stuck in your master cylinder. And if you follow the Chitlens manual, or whatever it's called, you will end up with just that. (Nice of them isn't it?)
So, the best thing is to Bench Bleed the master cylinder BEFORE you install it.
But if you had done that, you would not be reading this. So, remove the electronic housing next to the master cylinder reservoir so you can reach down to the master cylinder. Remove and peel back the rubber shield behind the left front tire. The fasteners come out if you just carefully pull on them. You don't have to remove the plastic housing, just about half of the rubber one in order to reach up towards the master cylinder.
Now, just follow the manual to remove the master cylinder from the clutch pedal and firewall. If you don't have the book basically, pry down the tabs on the little black snap in fastener at the end of the MC push rod in order to release it from the clutch pedal. Remove the plastic housing for the electronic clutch engagement sensor or whatever it is. Now the MC puch rod is free inside the cab. From next to the MC fluid resivroir, reach down and turn the MC 45 degrees clockwise to release it from the fastener inside. Now pull it out and position it upside down so that the rod faces down and the hoses are on top.
Now this is the key. Bubbles were trapped inside because some genius designed the mount that way. Have one person on top firmly hold the top of the unit, while another person comes in from the hole behind the wheel and pushes up on the MC push rod. Push slowly and let it out slowly. You should start to see bubble in the MC reservoir. Do this 5-8 times or until you don't see any more bubbles. Now Wait 15 minutes or more. Go do something else. Have some beer. If you come back and try again, you should get more bubbles out. Do this until it's really hard to push the rod in at all.
Now reverse the steps. Make sure the MC is seated correctly on the fastener inside before trying to rotate 45 degrees counter-clockwise to lock it in place. Attach everything back up.
Bleed the system again per the manual.
That's it.
If you are lucky it works. If you have good clutch pressure (somewhat hard to push down the pedal) but still cannot shift right, but have just replaced the master cylinder, then the slave cylinder is probably shot. Which is what just happened to us.
keywords- ford explorer 1995 '95 clutch master slave bleed bleeding cylinder air line sonnova-b