Doing a drain and refill every 30k miles is the best you can do to prevent another replacement. The PTUs are roasted by the engine and exhaust and this is very hard on the fluid in them.Just had ptu done at 60k on base 2015 explorer w 60k miles and tow package ...can I add cooler or anything else to prevent a meltdown again?
I think the first would be best.For the vent extension, is it better to pull the hose from the PTU and add a single long extension, or remove the vent cap from the existing tube and add a barbed hose extension?
3/8"What ID fuel line, 3/4? Can you even get your hand down there to set a clamp?
I’ve been using the “vent pipe mod” since new on my ‘16 sport. It takes about 20 minutes for a good drain and I use an oversized syringe canister for the 17oz-ish refill into the hose up top (pre-heat the 75w140 for easy flow in hot water in my shop sink…still in the bottle of course). I change my PTU every other oil change (10,000 miles) and I use redline 57914 gear oil in the PTU and rear dif every 30K (75w90 redline 57905) Motorcraft Mercon LV CT-10-QLVC5 in tranny 5 qt swap at 5K and 10K grossing every 30,000 miles there.Do the vent pipe fill mod so you can regularly drain and fill it. There is no solution as mentioned
I am curious if you have ever had a major drive train repair considering you follow a very aggressive maintenance schedule?I’ve been using the “vent pipe mod” since new on my ‘16 sport. It takes about 20 minutes for a good drain and I use an oversized syringe canister for the 17oz-ish refill into the hose up top (pre-heat the 75w140 for easy flow in hot water in my shop sink…still in the bottle of course). I change my PTU every other oil change (10,000 miles) and I use redline 57914 gear oil in the PTU and rear dif every 30K (75w90 redline 57905) Motorcraft Mercon LV CT-10-QLVC5 in tranny 5 qt swap at 5K and 10K grossing every 30,000 miles there.
175,000+miles…zero issues!
if we could get at the side fill plug to fill it... we wouldn't be filling it by the tube...I cringe every time I hear people using a syringe to fill the PTU from that vent mod hose without having the side fill plug open. It's a disaster waiting to happen...you likely have just been lucky up to this point unless you have been removing the side fill plug (I saw no mention of it).
If you do have that fill plug off then disregard, but I've seen plenty people not do that. The PTU is a vented case, not designed to see any pressure. When the syringe method is used via the vent hose, you've essentially turned it into a sealed case. There is no place for the air that is being displaced by the oil you're pushing down into the case. In certain instances, this pressure will push past any number of seals that are in the case, to include the one you wouldn't be able to see, the one keeping the PTU gear oil and trans fluid separate. Once you've reached that pressure required to blow past a seal, that's it...you're done, that seal will never...well, seal, anymore.
I get it, filling this case is slow and tedious. As you mentioned, heating it helps, but I would never use that syringe method unless you've given the air some place to go. I've got a bottom drain plug installed in mine which makes draining super easy with no mess.
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Then an added fill line, which allows for quicker fills since the real reason filling is so slow is because the oil going down is fighting with the air coming up. Back before I added the second fill line, I used to use the IV bag method (bottom of the bag has a hole punched into it and there is only the required 18oz in it) and just let it sit for a while as I go grab a cold beer and tackle the RDU drain/fill. I also heated the bag in hot water.
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As for the second fill line, below is a pic of my concept, I didn't get a pic of the actual setup. This photo is for reference only as I ended up using a smaller stainless fitting instead of that large brass one.
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Plenty of space underneath.
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Lately, I been thinking about adding this somewhere topside to the second fill line to make it even easier.
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Just gotta find a place to mount it up top.
Oh, and good choice of fluids! I use Amsoil products but the Redline/Mercon stuff has a good reputation as well. I use the Amsoil trans fluid with great success. As for the Mercon fluid...there has been some development with the SHO folks switching trans fluid to the newer ULV product and having less shifting-into-3rd issues (which takes the most pressure).
I'm Switching to Mercon ULV blend
I have been testing Mercon ULV in my car. Why? Ever since I hit the 500whp mark and beyond I would experience an issues with the transmission shifting into third. This particular issue seems to effect cars with similar power tuned by other tuners as well. It feels like the car is hitting a...shoforum.com
I'm not ready to make that transition as it's too soon to tell about any possible 2nd or 3rd order effects, but it's interesting stuff and I'm keeping my eye on it. As for your service intervals, those are great as well. I typically change all my fluids after every race weekend, but that can be excessive to most. For daily driving, you've got a good regimen.
Great job and I'm sure you're using your syringe with the side plug removed, this is just my PSA for those who haven't been. That is all, carry on!
Yeah, I agree, I had the luxury of doing this modification when I performed some minor upgrades to the PTU and had it off the car and taken apart, so I completely get that it isn't very feasible with it on the car. As for the side plug, it is for sure a pain in the rear to get to, but it can be done. Unfortunately, the newest iteration with the cooler uses the old fill plug as the port for the temperature sensor, so its really that which needs to be removed. I sympathize with the poor design of this component, one of the reasons I did the modifications to it on the bench. It was a pain at first, but each fluid change afterwards, I am super grateful I did it.if we could get at the side fill plug to fill it... we wouldn't be filling it by the tube...
adding another tube sounds good, but not sure how to do it without dropping out the PTU, and there's a lot of stuff to remove for that. maybe with a flex extension down behind the engine.
Look at the big brain on Brad!!!!But are you really introducing enough additional pressure to sacrifice the integrity of the seals by using the top vent to fill and compress the air inside?
Just assuming total PTU volume ~ 24oz and adding 6oz of fluid, you proportionally increase the pressure by 25%. So instead of 14.7 psi you're at 18.4. I guess there's no way of knowing for sure unless you have the design specs of the PTU.