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Push Button Ignition

Just a thought. What if you took something like a small piece of hardwood, plastic or maybe aluminum and cut a hole in it to fit over the part of the key lock that you would turn to start the engine? This would give your mom some leverage to turn the key to START without having to mess with the wiring.

As far as modifying the wiring to add a push button, you don't need to add any relays. I'd find a wire that is hot with the key in the ON position and use a wire-tap on it to feed the momentary push button switch. Then run a wire from the switch to the wire on the ignition switch that activates the OE starter relay. This appears to be a RED/LT BLUE wire.
 



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If you are wanting to replicate the ignition system you would need everything in that diagram. If you want to keep the keyed ignition switch and just add a push button you can just go with the very first part of the diagram, using the push button and the relay labeled starter. From your posts it looks like your mom is having trouble turning the key from run to start, correct? If she can turn the key on, then just the one relay is needed.

Yes, she can easily turn the key to the "on" position. So, I am going to use that relay and push button. Thank you for the validation.
 


















Just a thought. What if you took something like a small piece of hardwood, plastic or maybe aluminum and cut a hole in it to fit over the part of the key lock that you would turn to start the engine? This would give your mom some leverage to turn the key to START without having to mess with the wiring.

Not an option for me. That would really look mickey mouse to me.


As far as modifying the wiring to add a push button, you don't need to add any relays. I'd find a wire that is hot with the key in the ON position and use a wire-tap on it to feed the momentary push button switch. Then run a wire from the switch to the wire on the ignition switch that activates the OE starter relay. This appears to be a RED/LT BLUE wire.

As an EE I will go with the relay. Dont want future gremlins showing up.
 












As an EE I will go with the relay. Dont want future gremlins showing up.

I'm not sure if you noticed in the diagram, but the first relay that you would be using is a double pole/double throw. The reason being that when you activate the starter the accessory needs to drop power while the starter engages.
 






I did this to my 98 ranger for the same reason, or at least my Mech. did. Instruction came with the button. Love it.
You can look on ebay for starter button and the ads show the wiring diagram.

Cost of parts was less than 20 bucks, replaced my cig. lighter, glows red. All and all a sweet set up for little bucks.
 






I'm not sure if you noticed in the diagram, but the first relay that you would be using is a double pole/double throw. The reason being that when you activate the starter the accessory needs to drop power while the starter engages.

Oh, Thanks for that tip. I would have screwed it up before I even started.
 






If you have any questions you can PM me.
 












:thumbsup:
 






Part 1

Well after being down for awhile due to my cancer. I am back up and have restarted the project. I have installed the push button switch where the cigarette lighter used to be. I had to make a bushing out of plastic pvc pipe because the button would just slide through. I took the white 3/4 pvc about 6 inches long and inserted it into the cigarette lighter hole. Next, I marked all the way around where it would be flush with the dash bezel. I did not glue in because its a pretty tight fit.

Next I took a large black sharpie and colored the top of the white PVC pipe. I then cut the PVC where the line I marked. At which I deburred and cleaned the PVC pipe. Next I inserted the PVC into the cigarette lighter hole with the just marked black facing outwards inside the car.. Next I insereted the push button into the pvc pipe and set it flush with the pvc pipe and bezel.

Adding the nut in back of the push button only forced the push button to push straight thru the other side of the PVC pipe. I added a fender washer to the rear of the the push button so the PVC pipe and the bezel would push against each other. That worked real well after adding the push button nut on the rear.

Removing the radio and bezel was fairly easy. I did buy the 5 piece panel removal tool on Amazon for a $14 dollars and purchased the radio removal tool for $4 dollars. Sorry, I know I could have made my own. But the right tool for the right job for me.

So, onward to Part 2 - Wiring

Next week end.
 






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