Questions about my A/C and recharge

[FloridaState]

I just got done re-charging my AC. Bought a can of Arctic something-or-other R-134a with the gauge and everything and it (knock on wood) is working again. Before it would cycle on for a few seconds, then off, then on again in a few seconds, and on and on. And the air wasn't cold at all.
The initial PSI reading was below 15, so I filled it quite a bit and now the PSI reads around 30-ish. But my problem is that the sticker on the hood says max charge is 14oz, the can I bought has 22oz, so I'm worried that if I continue and use the can, I'll be in way over 14oz. The charge now is just above the green, in the blue section (which is good), but I'm wondering if I should go ahead and keep adding till I get further into the blue section. I don't want to overcharge, but I don't want to undercharge, either. I hear people saying that you may need multiple cans to get the right pressure, but wouldn't that leave you with a TON more 134 than 14oz?

Also, as I mentioned before, the AC used to cycle very often. Now it seems as if it's not cycling at all. It's staying on -what seems to be- constantly. Is this a problem?

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!!

 

[mr2fix2it]

the explorer you have listed as a 97 takes almost 2 pounds so 22 oz.is not going to over charge it and with a reading of 30 psi on low side is a good reading its in the normal range i hope this helps

 

[FloridaState]

the explorer you have listed as a 97 takes almost 2 pounds so 22 oz.is not going to over charge it and with a reading of 30 psi on low side is a good reading its in the normal range i hope this helps

Now I'm confused.

The little sticker under the hood says 1 pound or 14oz is the max. charge, not 2 pounds.

?

And any insight on the compressor constantly running? Is that a good thing. It's like 100 degrees here, feels like 107, so it's pretty friggin hot.

 

[mr2fix2it]

that is 1 pound 14 oz total not 1 pound or 14 ozs.

 

[FloridaState]

that is 1 pound 14 oz total not 1 pound or 14 ozs.

WOW. Just wow. I feel STUPID. lol

Durrrrr. Damn, this college education my parents are paying for must not be working very well. Maybe it's the heat. :

Thanks for your help. I'll check the pressure again later to see if it's any lower, but you said low 30's is okay to have?

 

[mr2fix2it]

yes 30 is normal the hotter it is the higher it will go i would say 40 psi is not out of the question but if ac is cold just leave it right where you have it

 

[ranger7ltr]

Can you get a set of gauges to monitor the high side as well?

Monitoring the low side is kinda a guide to about what temperature the evaporator should be BUT the high side will tell you what level the charge actually is and whether you have any other issues, like air, in the system...As you add refrigerant the high side is working real hard to remove latent heat from the evaporator that it picks up from the hotter cabin air blowing across it...Plus the condensor is working to release that same heat through airflow and start the process all over again...

The high side should read 2.2-2.7x ambient temp...I.E. 100 F at the radiator high side should be 220- 270 psi max...Too much refrigerant the system will not cool as designed, too little and the system will not cool at all or will freeze the evaporator and that stops the cooling effect too...

Those little gauges from the parts stores or Walmart are not the best tool to use...Frankly they rate 1 step below the r12 to r134a conversion or Death Kits...

Since the system lost refrigerant you really should find and fix the leak and then proceed from that...

 

[Gus Gorilla]

When the compressor is running if the little low side gauge is between 30 and 40psi in an ambient temp somewhere between 80-100F then your in the ballpark.

Wow. looking back, that ^^ is the most bottom line band-aid shade tree recommendation I may have ever made on EF. It's technically correct, and will make the snowflake button create cold air, but damn.

For future reference, don't buy the Arctic Something-or-other refill kits. They often contain all kinds of stuff you don't want in the system. Most have Stop-leak which later turns into an unremovable epoxy inside the system. Should you ever want to repair it later you'll be screwed. A good shop would either refuse or want to replace everything. Literally everything.

 

[BrianDye]

For future reference, don't buy the Arctic Something-or-other refill kits.

Whats a good brand to use? Ive always used the Arctic Something-or-other

 

[FloridaState]

Well, no offense, but the Arctic something-or-other makes my AC cold, and in 100+ degree weather, that's all that matters at the moment. I don't have the time nor the money (being away for college) to get it professionally serviced. So the Arctic something-or-other will have to do for now.

I need to look at the can and find out the real name lol. I know it's Arctic something.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Why not Arctic Freeze? I had it in my last Ex and never had an issue... If there is an important reason, please share so we all know...

 

[BrianDye]

Why not Arctic Freeze? I had it in my last Ex and never had an issue... If there is an important reason, please share so we all know...

Exactly man! I ran in it my 92, my 95, and reccomended it to 3 or so people to use and they did, each having GREAT results!

 

[Carguy3J]

Yeah, Artic Freeze does NOT contain "stop leak" chemicals. Some may contain a little UV dye, or leak DETECTOR, but not a "stop leak" Now, there certainly are some R134a products that do have "stop leak" in them, but I generally avoid those. I'm a little leary of the "high-mileage" ones as well, for the same reasons.

 

[FloridaState]

Why not Arctic Freeze? I had it in my last Ex and never had an issue... If there is an important reason, please share so we all know...

That's it! Arctic Freeze.

I knew it was arctic something. This is the first time I've used it, so we'll see how it plays out. It's working so far, but it's only been a day.

 

[barrys]

The Artic Freeze does have a small amount of leak sealer in it -- .25 oz in each can -- as per the customer service rep at the company. I don't know dick about A/C systems, but I'm curious what their business model would be if every can they sold destroyed every A/C system it was added to.

You can buy "sealer free" r134a. But, I found -- after adding Arctic Freeze -- that the proper service is complicated and expensive. Probably worth it though.

For those of you who have used Arctic Freeze, did your A/C system run OK for years without a failure? If so, how many years?

 

[BrianDye]

I used it on my 95 I had (only had used the AC for one summer) and it blew ice cold perfectly the whole time, and still does (Its a friends vehicle now)

Im trying to think of which kind I used in my old 92' I had...it blew out room temp with the AC on, so I bought some "high mileage" recharge stuff, worked AMAZINGLY for a couple of months and then my ac would be kind of cold, then room temp, then kind of cold, then back to room temp.
-It wasnt Arctic freeze but it was a no name brand with all that stuff stamped on it "high mileage" "finds and seals leaks" so on and so fourth, but ive never had any bad experience with AF, my gf's parents used it on theyre car over a year ago and its blowing out ice cold still.

 

[johnidollar]

Hi -I just got a recharge hose & can of R12 - followed directions - nothing seemed to be filling the system. I disconnected the hose from the low side & the nozzle fell out of the hose. I screwed nozzle back in and retried - still no freon seemed to be moving - waited 30 min. Can is still full - any ideas?

 

[barrys]

First, I don't know what I'm talking about so please consider that as you read on...

After reading up on it, I'm actually amazed that I got anything out of that can into the system at all. Most people recommended going to an A/C service shop. If the stuff you put in had "leak sealer/stopper" then you should mention that to the A/C mechanic since that stuff can mess up their expensive tools.

As I understand, they will do something like the following:
1. Drain refrigerant and oil (they are mixed) out of the system.
2. Draw a vacuum so the new stuff gets sucked in.
3. Add the appropriate amount of the special oil used in A/C systems.
4. Add the appropriate amount of the refrigerant.
5. Check system pressure.

I also hear that this is not a very expensive service -- probably about $100.00 or so.

 

[johnidollar]

First, I don't know what I'm talking about so please consider that as you read on...

After reading up on it, I'm actually amazed that I got anything out of that can into the system at all. Most people recommended going to an A/C service shop. If the stuff you put in had "leak sealer/stopper" then you should mention that to the A/C mechanic since that stuff can mess up their expensive tools.

As I understand, they will do something like the following:
1. Drain refrigerant and oil (they are mixed) out of the system.
2. Draw a vacuum so the new stuff gets sucked in.
3. Add the appropriate amount of the special oil used in A/C systems.
4. Add the appropriate amount of the refrigerant.
5. Check system pressure.

I also hear that this is not a very expensive service -- probably about $100.00 or so.

Thanks! No, it has no lubricant in it. I heard somewhere that if the compressor doesn't start, and it did not, you can jump the compressor from battery + side. don't know where the + is on compressor - Do you?

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Hi -I just got a recharge hose & can of R12 - followed directions - nothing seemed to be filling the system. I disconnected the hose from the low side & the nozzle fell out of the hose. I screwed nozzle back in and retried - still no freon seemed to be moving - waited 30 min. Can is still full - any ideas?

After you connected the can to the hose and then the hose fitting to the low pressure port (push down until it snaps on), did you pierce the can with the t-screw and then back the t-screw out to let the refrigerant out of the can?