How to: - R&R 1995+ Ford Explorer A/C Compressor - 4.0L SOHC AC Airconditioning | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: R&R 1995+ Ford Explorer A/C Compressor - 4.0L SOHC AC Airconditioning

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ncc

Active Member
Joined
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Messages
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City, State
Manchester, NH
Year, Model & Trim Level
'97 Eddie Bauer
Here's how I replaced my A/C compressor on my '97 Eddie Bauer 4.0L SOHC:

I based this write-up on the compressor I purchased from a great company on eBay. It is obviously remanufactured and has the clutch and pulley already installed. All for a great price. Here's the company's link: Security Measure

Tools:
10mm socket
10mm wrench
13mm socket
13mm wrench
3/8" ratchet with extensions
Small flathead screwdriver (for loosening hose clamps)
8mm socket (for the p/s reservoir screws)

***NOTE: You will be jacking up the driver's side at some point. You can do it now or later. I prefer to do it later because it makes it easier to get the preliminary stuff out of the way with the vehicle still on the ground.***

1. Have the system professionally drained. It is actually a federal crime to allow refrigerant to escape into the atmosphere. Plus it's just a lot safer when you know you can crack open your system and nothing's gonna' come blowing out at you.

2. This is where the books and the pros would say disconnect the negative battery cable. I admit that I never do this.

3. Put a drip pan under the vehicle to catch any power steering fluid that may spill.

4. Remove the cap from the power steering reservoir and use a turkey baster or some other form of siphoning tube to get as much fluid out as possible.

5. Remove the two screws that hold the reservoir to the bracket and the two clamps that hold the feed and return lines to the reservoir. Put the cap back on the reservoir and tighten. Gently separate the reservoir from the lines and flip it upside down to retain what little fluid may still be in it. Spillage should be minimal.

6. Remove the power steering reservoir bracket to increase your working clearance. There are three bolts holding it on. Two are shown in the picture below. The third is under the reservoir and will be clear after you remove the reservoir.

***NOTE: The picture shows the bracket with the reservoir still attached. This is because I forgot to take pictures of the disassembly. So I'm making do with everything as is all reassembled. Sorry.***

powersteeringreservoirbracketwithte.jpg


7. With the reservoir out of the way, disconnect the electrical connector from the lines on the back of the compressor.

8. Disconnect the line attachment from the back of the compressor body. It is held on by a single bolt which I profess not to remember the size of. :rolleyes:

compressorrearattachmentwithtext.jpg


9. Loosen the clamps at either end of the intake tube, disconnect both ends and flip entire assembly up out of the way.

enginewithtext.jpg


10. Using a 3/8" ratchet, loosen the automatic belt tensioner and pull the serpentine belt off the A/C compressor pulley.

11. Using a 13mm wrench (or socket if you have small hands), remove the two upper studs securing the compressor to the engine. These studs are threaded on BOTH ends, so you may need to put a second nut on the working end to tighten the already existing nut against while removing.

compressorupperboltscircled.jpg


12. Loosen the driver's side lug nuts and jack up the vehicle. Remove the driver's side wheel and remove the inner fender. This provides easier access to the two lower bolts on the compressor.

13. Using a 13mm socket, remove the rearmost of the two lower studs.

14. Using a 10mm socket, remove the nut that secures the p/s line bracket to the compressor and pull that bracket aside.

compressorlowerboltswithtext.jpg


15. Unplug the electrical connector on the lower front of the compressor.

16. Using a 13mm socket, remove the forwardmost stud from the compressor.

The compressor should now fall easily into your hands.

Installation:

1. MAKE SURE YOUR COMPRESSOR IS OILED!!! Some compressors come charged, some do not. You MUST charge your compressor. The easiest way to do this is to purchase a can of PAG 100 oil and pour about 3-4 ounces into the rear ports of the new compressor. Then hand turn the pulley about 10-15 times to get the oil pumped throughout the compressor. If you do not do this step, you WILL be buying a new compressor very soon!

2. Install compressor in the reverse order that you removed it.

3. Install line attachment at rear of compressor. Make sure ports and fittings remain CLEAN and FREE of debris! (Very important!)

4. Plug in electrical connectors - one at the rear and one at the lower front.

5. Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle. Torque lug nuts to specified values.

6. Reinstall the serpentine belt and the air intake tube.

7. Reinstall p/s reservoir bracket and p/s reservoir. Attach feed and return lines.

8. Fill p/s reservoir to appropriate level.

9. Double check everything you've done.

10. If you've just installed a new compressor because of anything even remotely resembling what's known as a "catastrophic failure" (basically anything involving failure of internal parts), then you really, really need to replace your receiver/drier and orifice tube.

You should consider also changing your condenser (the small radiator-looking unit in front of your real radiator). This unit has tiny passageways that can plug up if gunk from compressor seals or anything else get in them. If that gunk breaks free and gets back to your new compressor...well, you can imagine the rest.

I am doing a write-up on replacing the receiver/drier as well and will edit this post with a link to that write-up as soon as it is finished.

***EDIT: Okay, here's the link to the receiver/drier write-up: R&R 1995+ Ford Explorer A/C Receiver/Drier 4.0L SOHC AC Airconditioning ***

Good luck to you!!!

Jeremy
'97 Eddie Bauer 4.0L SOHC
 



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I Nominate this for...............Sticky time and move to AC Section.

Aloha, Mark
 






Good thread, I would add:

Installation #1. Turning the compressor by hand with oil in it will cause the oil to shoot up in the air. Turn slowly and wear eye protection.

Installation #3. Torque attaching bolt to 15 ft lb. No need to gorilla it.

For the technically ****, the receiver/drier is called an accumulator on the orifice type systems.

Thanks for the thread and pics!
 






Three for three:D
 






Does anyone know how much it costs to have the AC system drained?
 






Does someone know wat is the problem?
I try de discribe de situation i have an explorer 1998, i start the engine after a while, he turn on 500 r/m, i start the AC after while i stop the AC & the engine, after 3 mn i start the engine without Ac, i hear a rare sound in the engine somthing like (Kik klik klik).
i stop the engine i start hem voor the second time again the some problem, i give some gas and the kilk desepear
Is there something that i have to do, i have just bought the car...
plaese any idea...

tahar
 






Great thread, you helped me a lot, and also I would add:

For step 6: use 7 mm socket for remove these three bolts
For step 8: use 10 mm socket
For steps 11 and 13: After use the 13mm socket, for completly remove the lower studs insted of use a second nut, I used a 5mm socket with extension

Installation

Step 3: DO NOT FORGET TO REPLACE THE O RINGS!!!!!!

Thank you again for this thread
 






Hey, y'all. I have not visited this site in many years but I received an email recently that Photobucket has changed their policies and no longer allows "hotlinking" of photos with a free account. Since I'm not paying for their crappy site, my photos are currently unavailable for y'all to view. It will take me a couple of days, but I am going to migrate all the original photos from this and my other write-ups to my personal server so that they become available, again. Happy wrenching, y'all!
 






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