rack and pinion pressure and retun line seals

[wollimann]

Hello,

after 29 years the rack and pinion is leaking into the boots. It takes the whole day only to loosen the connections without damaging
the lines or fittings. Old rack and pinion is still inside. I noticed that there were white sealing rings only on the threads of the pressure and return line.
Years ago i bought a used rack and pinion in good shape, so now this one will have to find its way into the Explorer.

Found one seal set Dorman 82540 in my spare box, now the question is if these rings will fit and how to get them the right way
on the threads? They did not slide over the thread, did i have to warm them up? What's the secret, never done this before.
Or should i use teflon ptfe tape instead for the connections?
Here the white seals are at the end of the threads.

https://www.amazon.com/Steering-Pressure-Assembly-Compatible-1995-2000/dp/B0CHDNGB8F?tag=seriouexplor-20

And what about the blue seals down there, they looks like damaged?

I am grateful for any help, thank you and kind regards.

Wolfgang

 

[wollimann]

This guy used the same Dorman seal rings, but he has a special pricy tool
to get the seals over the threads. Warming up is not the way if i understand him right.

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[wollimann]

Please, if anyone has a information where i could get these four blue seals, i would be very happy.
There are seal kits outthere for the rack and pinion of a 97 Explorer 4.0 SOHC,
but the blue seals are never included.
It seems, the seals will pressed down by the fitting/tube and only them sealed this connection.
Would you use them again, hoping for the best?
I hate to do things twice while i know about a possible issue/leak.

 

[wollimann]

Old rack and pinion is out, what a mess and a pain.

 

[amj441]

I have done my steering rack a few time since I had picked a few bad ones from the junkyard before settling on a new steering rack from Oreilly's.

I do not have the ptfe seals on the ends of my lines, and I have not use plumbers tape on the threads. my rack does not leak. But when I did try to replace the seals on the lines with the white ones you mentioned. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to "stretch" the seal prior to installation. it did not lead to desirable results. I was only able to get one installed while the other snapped. You may want to try warming them in warm water and then trying to stretch them on.

At this point though I can get the steering rack out and re-installed in 1.5hrs. I really prefer the 2 door steering rack in my 4 door. alot less sloppy feeling and easier in parking lots.

good luck

 

[SuperGordo]

The blue o rings you can find some right sized o rings probably made of viton that will work. I can't imagine anyone who sells them specifically for the rack. Installing the rack and pinion assembly in these explorers is challenging enough. Using a used rack could be frustrating.

As far as the white teflon o rings go I've done those several ways. First couple times I worked with them I did it wrong and they leaked. And I got to do it over again.
I've put them in heated water for a couple minutes. Nowdays I dont heat them. I've never had the install tool. But I can see that it would be useful.

As far as the actual O rings go. I've used the Dorman ones. They work alright. But I've noticed that they are not the exact same size as Fords o rings. The Ford dealer near me always has bags of them. I buy ten at a time and keep them in the tool box. Ford sells two sizes. You are expected to figure out for yourself what size fits what hose.

Typically I will take a nice set of needle nose pliers. The outside of the pliers are curved. I've slid the teflon ring onto the pliers and GENTLY opened the pliers. The o ring will stretch. Then I rotate the ring and repeat to expand the o ring in a consistant round shape. Once it's close to the size of the threads you can very carefully spin it down the threads. It is VERY important that the square edged Teflon ring doesn't twist or roll. If it does, it will leak. Once it is in place. Let it sit there for a few minutes. You can lightly use a heat gun. And I mean lightly, to get it to shrink back into place.

These Teflon o rings are tricky until you get used to them. I am an auto mechanic by trade. I use them regularly. It may take you a couple tries to get the job done. Once you get the knack of the things, it isn't a big deal anymore. I haven't had one leak in 15 years.

 

[wollimann]

Thank you so much for your information, i thought i would get crazy cause i don't find these blue rings.
Try to find some Viton O-Rings now.
The white teflon rings for pressure hose / return hose i found, should be Ford OEM 388898s.
Unfortunately not available in Europe, will see if i could get some matching rings.
Found a tool in my fishing equipment.

Tomorrow i will fight again to get the used RP in, hope it will work better without tie rods.
Thanks and regards

Wolfgang

 

[amj441]

Thank you so much for your information, i thought i would get crazy cause i don't find these blue rings.
Try to find some Viton O-Rings now.
The white teflon rings for pressure hose / return hose i found, should be Ford OEM 388898s.
Unfortunately not available in Europe, will see if i could get some matching rings.
Found a tool in my fishing equipment.
View attachment 463929
Tomorrow i will fight again to get the used RP in, hope it will work better without tie rods.
Thanks and regards

Wolfgang

Like the Tool!

yes the job is much easier without the inner tierods, but doable with them in. If I remember correctly. you should start with the steering input facing you and down and insert the passenger side in first, slide it over as far as you can, insert driver side tierod, rotate back flat and mount it. should almost fall in

 

[wollimann]

Yes, the way back in should be a little bit easyer. My intention was to measure the old RP to get the
alignment for the new tie rods, but it's not easy. So i will install the new tie rods afterwards.
I have to go to a alignment shop anyway, cause i changed the passenger upper control arm and both lower balljoints too.
Some month ago i changed the driver side upper controlarm, since that the front tires both worn outside.
Explorer was running straight and steering wheel is in the middle, only at sharp left corners
tires squeezing.
The most important thing is, that the power steering connections not leaking. With a leaking car i can't get
through our 2 year technical inspection, so thumbs up.

regards

 

[wollimann]

Like the Tool!

Did not work.

Wrap around Tesa over the thread and wiggle the ring over.
Some additional Teflon tape for all threads.

Rack and Pinion is in and still not leaking while idling.

 

[donalds]

Looks good to

 

[C420sailor]

Hot water, only stretch as much as you must to get it over.

Not sure why anyone would say not to use hot water. I used it to get new seals on my PS lines and it worked great.

 

[410Fortune]

I have replaced a few rack and pinions in these trucks
Likely 10 of them over the years
I have never messed with the white or
Blue seals and I’ve never had a leak

The flare on the line should make up a sealed connection.. when you have a flare fitting in hydraulic lines you don’t need to seal the threads because the seal is made at the flare

I’m not sure why they always give you new white seals
When provided I install them onto the lines but even without them I have never had a leak.
To get the seals in place I put atf on them and thread them on… if they break I continue on without them. Sounds crazy! But it’s true

A good quality rack and pinion is a must, but new if possible if you have to get a reman get a good one like carquest or Napa
With a lifetime warranty, in town brick and mortar stores
It is a lot of labor and alignment just to install a crappy reman rack

Good work thus far

Post 546 in this old thread I did a rack and pinion remove and replace how to back in 2009

410Fortune - 96 5.0L XLT refurbish (making 1 great Ex from 2)

no no I am just painting my front clip to match the original light blue on the rest of the truck There are several dents and area's that would require alot of attention if I was to re-paint the whole truck... That sparkle purple is just plain nasty

www.explorerforum.com

 

[wollimann]

Hello and thank you for your reply,

you have the experience and the knowledge over the years, i wanted to do it in the way
the rack and pinion was manufactured. I do not know it better and
tried to find out information about these connections. The four flares on the two thin line are flat,
saw the blue seals, so i thought it must be a one way seal.
And it should be not to leak out the first time.
This used R&P has 55000 miles and i am glad that it is working fine, good feeling without any leaks.
Otherwise i would have bought a refurbished one, but it's not easy to find some in Europe.
And it's a callenge too to find someone who did the front end alignment.
A poor environment here for all Explorers, big thanks on this US forum with all this support!

regards Wolfgang