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Rapid theft flashing

Frustratednoob

New Member
Joined
September 17, 2021
Messages
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City, State
Bakersfield, California
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 explorer sport
I've read through all past Pats forums and nothing helped.

I had one non factory key. At one point someone tried to steal my car by shoving something in ignition. Car started fine afterwards still.

The other day I was at the gas station and I fueled up Nd then car wouldn't start. The starter is cranking but the motor never starts. The theft light on dash is rapidly flashing. I opened key and saw the glass cylinder was cracked so thought I needed new key.

Called locksmith who came out and cut me 2 keys but he never could program them. He said the problem is in the car not the key.

I noticed a little wore dangling that had a teal colored flat area with a thin piece of metal dangling, that fits into the ring around the ignition where the key goes. I taped it back in place.

Ford dealership says they won't work on it. My mechanic will but he's booked for a while. At this point im willing to try anything to be able to drive the car. I have the first non factory key that I've been using for years, and I have 2 non programmed keys with chips now
 



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If you have access to forscan and a good USB/bluetooth OBD2 module, you can go through the programming procedure with that assuming that you have two good (unique) PATS keys. I don't know how you would verify that there's not a problem with the PATS receiver piece around the ignition tumbler though.
 












I've read through all past Pats forums and nothing helped.

I had one non factory key. At one point someone tried to steal my car by shoving something in ignition. Car started fine afterwards still.

The other day I was at the gas station and I fueled up Nd then car wouldn't start. The starter is cranking but the motor never starts. The theft light on dash is rapidly flashing. I opened key and saw the glass cylinder was cracked so thought I needed new key.

Called locksmith who came out and cut me 2 keys but he never could program them. He said the problem is in the car not the key.

I noticed a little wore dangling that had a teal colored flat area with a thin piece of metal dangling, that fits into the ring around the ignition where the key goes. I taped it back in place.

Ford dealership says they won't work on it. My mechanic will but he's booked for a while. At this point im willing to try anything to be able to drive the car. I have the first non factory key that I've been using for years, and I have 2 non programmed keys with chips now
You already got good advice about the PATS, so just a comment: that teal-colored thing with a piece of metal has nothing to do with PATS -- it's the "key in ignition" contact, which will sound the annoying ding-dong when you open the door with the engine off but key still in ignition.
 












You already got good advice about the PATS, so just a comment: that teal-colored thing with a piece of metal has nothing to do with PATS -- it's the "key in ignition" contact, which will sound the annoying ding-dong when you open the door with the engine off but key still in ignition.
WhAT advice are u referring o? I don't have access to whatever the code machine thing was and I don't know if I have 2 unique keys because I have the original key that wasn't working and 2 keys the locksmith cut but said he couldn't program bcuz my car was messed up. Oh and now my original key doesn't have it's chip in it I guess he took it out and lost it. The only 2 ford dealers in town are both Jim Burke Ford and said they won't work on a vehicle that old. I would retire the vehicle and get 1500 for them to crush it but it has to be running nd driving. Now I have a worthless explorer and my HOA doesnt let us park overnight on street nd I've been there for a week

You already got good advice about the PATS, so just a comment: that teal-colored thing with a piece of metal has nothing to do with PATS -- it's the "key in ignition" contact, which will sound the annoying ding-dong when you open the door with the engine off but key still in ignition.

You already got good advice about the PATS, so just a comment: that teal-colored thing with a piece of metal has nothing to do with PATS -- it's the "key in ignition" contact, which will sound the annoying ding-dong when you open the door with the engine off but key still in ignition.
 






You’ll need the codes to figure out if you have an ECM issue, or a transiever/wiring issue. Have you had a dead battery recently?
 












Yes I just got a new battery
Okay one welcome to the forum. Just a quick question do have you an original chip key that was already programmed. If so gut the original key and get the chip inside. So then you can switch ignition modules. By taping the chip inside. Just a thought. Or try the super secret door key and check if that will work with it. Just spit balling.
 






Okay one welcome to the forum. Just a quick question do have you an original chip key that was already programmed. If so gut the original key and get the chip inside. So then you can switch ignition modules. By taping the chip inside. Just a thought. Or try the super secret door key and check if that will work with it. Just spit balling.
THe Key that I've been using for a few years is not from ford but is is chipped and has been working fine. Nothing happened just prior to this problem other than replacing the battery
 






The computer might have lost its programming.
 






The key programming is what matters, not the key itself but the chip and code/programming that is required.

So you say you have one usable key(the chip/program inside), the other keys will have to be programmed into the PAT module.

It sounds like the PATS receiver at the ignition key cylinder, you mentioned a dangling or broken part. That is probably the issue, the key code is not being received by the PATS. Can you post a picture of the key cylinder, the PATS receiver is there next to it?
 






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