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How to: Rear Timing Chain Tensioner Replacement

steadyhand

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I found a chain wrench online at Northern Tool Supply for $65 but couldn't tell if it was suitable. Where did you purchase yours? Let me know if it works.

You can use the stud bolts from your A/C compressor to pull the balancer. They are long enough and the correct thread. Just be careful that you don't break them by tightening the puller center bolt too much. Use the hammer and tap the center puller bolt head to jar the balancer loose. Tighten, tap, tighten, tap, etc.

The only bolts I see in the A/C compressor are behind the pully and can't be removed without taking the pully off. Btw, should there be only two bolts to remove the HB? I see three holes, but only two are threaded. Their located across from each other, on both sides of the HB.

I purchased the chain wrench at tool a rama.
 


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2000StreetRod

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A/C compressor mounting bolts/studs

There should be two 13mm head bolts/studs on the left wheel side of the A/C compressor at the bottom.

The 3rd non-threaded, non-symmetrical hole in the balancer is for balancing the balancer. Some have more than one balance hole.

I'll be away from the computer until later this evening. I've asked the moderator to move this thread starting with your first post to a new thread because it no longer is about replacing the rear tensioner.
 




steadyhand

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Is there a special tool required for removing the oil pickup screen or does it just slide out?
 








robert ray69

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hey there guys, new member here. I came across this thread by google search. i`m still battling the oil leak from the pass side tensioner going on two months. i used the suggestions given in the begining of this thread. I`m at the point of torquing to 60#`s like one member mentioned, but a little hesitant doubling the recommended torque or 32 and going to 60. Already tried 49 and 54. I`m about to start over again, this time without the seal/washer. I also read someone using a "copper washer from the dealer" if someone can give me a part number or what to ask for on that i`d appreciate it. Sorry for the long post and thanks for any help or suggestions.
 








robert ray69

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yeah, i believe i`ve been through three-four of those if thats the stock metal o-ring that ford shows for the drivers side tensioner. I read somewhere that someone used a copper one, or is that the one you listed above. Funny how ford doesnt show the metal o-ring for the pass side. thanks
 




waskly

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hey there guys, new member here. I came across this thread by google search. i`m still battling the oil leak from the pass side tensioner going on two months. i used the suggestions given in the begining of this thread. I`m at the point of torquing to 60#`s like one member mentioned, but a little hesitant doubling the recommended torque or 32 and going to 60. Already tried 49 and 54. I`m about to start over again, this time without the seal/washer. I also read someone using a "copper washer from the dealer" if someone can give me a part number or what to ask for on that i`d appreciate it. Sorry for the long post and thanks for any help or suggestions.

leaving that washer out will make it pour out, not leak. try changing the washer.
 








janolsson

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Robert ray
First thing to look at is if the tensioner is going in straight. If it was started in the threads using a socket it could have crossed slightly and by not going in straight one side will not seal. If you know it is straight then next thing you could do is take the tensioner to an auto parts place and test fit some sealing washers. These can be copper or soft ally but the key is to fit snugly around the shaft just below the head and not be too thick so as to block the oil port.
Here in the uk i found an oil sump nut sealing washer from a VW beetle fitted perfectly.
HTH

Edit: Should i really have admitted to putting a VW part on my shiney ford engine??
 




waskly

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do not put the tentioner in with a socket its very easy to strip the threads in the head.

you should only use a socket to torque it.
 




janolsson

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do not put the tentioner in with a socket its very easy to strip the threads in the head.

you should only use a socket to torque it.

Exactly my point. Some people have been known to hence stressing to check it is in straight.
My front tensioner had been put in askew by PO so i had to tap out the threads, fortunately there was enough metal left to hold the torque.
 




robert ray69

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yes, i have had this thing in and out so many times i have it down pat. I can thread it all the way till the face of the tensioner mates the head with my fingers. Also learned a little trick along the way. If that side of the engine is on a compression stroke, it will not want to thread in. Thats where I can see someone forcing to compress it while turning to get the threads started and possibly crossthreading. If you turn the crank a little, you can relieve the tension and it will thread right on in with no problems. My next step is to find a copper washer/seal and try it. Just dont know where to get one yet.
 




robert ray69

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Allright guys, hate to rehash this thread again, but I still have a leak even with a new seal and tensioner, torqued to 49 ft lbs. I read in this thread someone having to torque to 60 ft lbs before it stopped leaking. I`m just looking for some back-up on this before i go and strip the threads out. Sixty seems a bit much... thats almost twice of whats recommended. Anyone...
 




Vargas

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Did you use a copper or steel sealing washer?

I'm the poor guy who had to go to 60ft/lb, but I had no sealing washer at all.
 




robert ray69

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I used the washer from the dealer, i guess a thin, black coated steel washer. Its like my fifth one... lol.
 




Vargas

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I should also say that I had the torque wrench set to 60ft/lb, but the actual force applied to the tensioner may have been less due to the many drive extensions necessary to reach it.

When the wrench clicked, the prop I had been using to support the wrench head slipped from under it, so I ended up slamming my hand into some random piece of steel and breaking a finger. Good times.
 




msb78

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Hi! I'm new to this site. So far I LOVE all the info. I have a loud rattle coming from my engine. I was told by a few mechanics that it's my rear timing chain. They all tell me that the engine has to come out to change the tensioner. From what I see above, they might be wrong. I have an '01 mazda pickup with the 4.0 It's a 2wd. Would this above procedure work for me? I'd appreciate any help possible. thanks in advance. Keep the good info coming!! :)
 




2000StreetRod

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not likely

Hi! I'm new to this site. So far I LOVE all the info. I have a loud rattle coming from my engine. I was told by a few mechanics that it's my rear timing chain. They all tell me that the engine has to come out to change the tensioner. From what I see above, they might be wrong. I have an '01 mazda pickup with the 4.0 It's a 2wd. Would this above procedure work for me? I'd appreciate any help possible. thanks in advance. Keep the good info coming!! :)


If you have a loud rattle it's unlikely replacing your hydraulic tensioner will correct the problem:
SOHC V6 Timing Chain Inspection & Repair
 


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Silent00

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EDIT: Decided to make my own thread.
 




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