Rebuilding an engine

[kdailey4315]

Anyone know the going rate or how much I can expect to pay to have my 4.0 rebuilt around the San Francisco Bay Area. My rear main seal is shot and I'm sure the bearings are no good either and since the engine has to be pulled to change the bearings I migh tas well just have the whole thing rebuilt. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[kdailey4315]

Engine rebuild

Anyone know the going rate or how much I can expect to pay to have my 4.0 rebuilt around the San Francisco Bay Area. My rear main seal is shot and I'm sure the bearings are no good either and since the engine has to be pulled to change the bearings I migh tas well just have the whole thing rebuilt. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[SVO]

http://www.jasperengines.com/





Jeff - :navajo:

 

[metstalker]

i think he wants his current block rebuilt not a rebuilt motor. im guessing around 2000-4000 for getting an engine rebuilt with labor and such. thats a rough guess. i would defenatly keep the same engine and rebuild it. you never know with jasper and other pre rebuilt engines.

 

[unclemeat]

I recently priced a short block at a local ford dealership $1,200. I would expect to pay about $1,800 for a long block. Of course you would have to pay shipping. Jasper is going to cost more.

 

[kdailey4315]

I called a few places today and the best proce I got was 2800 for a place to install an engine that has 58000 miles on it. Does this seem good to you guys?

 

[410Fortune]

for 2800 you can rebuild your block.
Labor is going to be quite a bit to have it removed and then re-installed.

The truck may not be worth it IMO. How many miles are on this?
What makes you think your rear main seal is shot? Huge oil leak?
What makes you think the bearings are spun? Have you done a compression test on the engine? 4.0L OHV's typically last 200-250K miles before they really start to show signs of wear.It is common for them to leak at the oil filter adapter and also intake manifold and valve cover gaskets. Sometimes this can be confused with a rear main seal leak.


What I am getting at it paying 2800 for a used engine to be installed might not be such a good idea if you bolt it up to a transmission that is not going to last another 100K miles, also a 93 Explorer is typically worth $2500-4500 so putting $3K into it may not be your best option.

Just trying to give you something to think about.

 

[Darrman]

second that......

 

[Creager]

- Re-ring kit w/ bearings and engine seals (Sealed Power premium) $400 www.rockauto.com

- Delta cams rocker arms/pushrod kit $250 www.deltacam.com

 

[kdailey4315]

Thanks for all of the info. I think the main seal is shot because I'm losing about 1 quart of oil every two weeks, The truck currently has about 110k on it. I've been pricing other Explorers and like you said they are running between 2500-4000 but I can't find one with less miles than mine has.

 

[410Fortune]

Are you sure of the source of your leak? Like I said the oil filter is located back there and it is VERY common for the oil filter mount to engine to leak, it can drip down the back of the engine and appear to be coming from the rear main.

 

[kdailey4315]

This may be a dumb question but how can I tell exactly if it's coming from the oil filter?

 

[410Fortune]

tighten it up! hahaha there are a couple of ways. What I normally do is a really really close visual inspection with alot of light.

If you still cant tell, then clean up all teh mess under there, go drive it for a few, come back and let it sit. Then look again. This should give you the source of the leak.

If no then there are leak detection kits you can buy where a dye is put in the oil, then under a blacklight you can see the dye and its source.

I got $5 says its the oil filter to block adapter and O ring. A very common issue ont he OHV 4.0L, whereas the rear main seal might leak, but I have never seen one "fail" on this engine.

 

[kdailey4315]

OK I'll check ou the Block adapter and O ring.

 

[410Fortune]

FYI I forgot to tell ya, you can tighten that sucker up easy enough, but to replace the IO ring you have to unbolt the pass side exhaust manifold = not fun.

I have never had to, jsut tighten it.
Be careful do not overtighten!