Reliability

[mekelly]

My son is soon going to be driving my 1994 XLT. While they are mechanical beasts and anything can happen, I am trying to do as much preventative maintenance as I can to make it as reliable as possible.

What I have recently done:

Replace Spark Plugs
Replace Spark Plug wires
Replace fuel filter
Replace air filter
Cleaned throttle body and MAF sensor
Change trans filter, clean pan, flush 10 qts. fluid, install Magnefine filter
Replaced power steering pump, pressure hose, return hose, flushed system
Replaced water pump, thermostat, radiator hoses, heater hose
Removed blower motor and resister, cleaned debris from heater core
Replaced cracked fan
Replaced fan clutch
Replaced front wheel bearings

The tires are good, battery is good, serpentine belt is good, brakes are good.

The other item I am debating is replacing the fuel pump. Car has 174,000 miles on it. Running fine and hate to spend $100 and mess with it if it's working but a little concerned due to age and mileage. Thoughts?

Anything else I should consider? Don't want to just throw money at it, but am interested in preventing likely failures (given others experience and history)!

Thanks!

 

[Anime]

If it's gone 174,000 miles on the original fuel pump, then replacing it before it goes rather than waiting until it does might be a good idea.

The stock fuel pump assembly also uses regular steel, so it often just rusts away on top of and inside the tank, especially in climates that see winter weather, so replacing the entire assembly with a new stainless steel unit can not only restore performance, but clean up the fuel since a rusty pump is usually contaminating the tank and so the in-tank filter and in-line fuel filter get contaminated with rust, too.

NAPA sells a nice stainless fuel pump assembly that's around $100. You'll also need a new rubber seal and lockring.


You might also consider replacing the gear oil in the differential, especially if it's never been done.

 

[natenkiki2004]

You might also consider replacing the gear oil in the differential, especially if it's never been done.

X2 on this, possibly slightly better mileage with 75W-90 synthetic.

Also, if it's a 4x4, transfer case fluid. Grease all the zerks up front and axle shaft slip yokes. Checking and replacing the vacuum line could be good, silicone is worry-free. Flush the brake fluid, check the rears (I assume you checked the fronts during wheel bearings).

You replaced the fan & fan clutch, did you check the other pulleys for bearing play? If not, I'd say go ahead and replace the serpentine belt anyway. A good Gates one is cheap enough and they can actually wear without cracking.

One big thing I could think of would be battery cables. Have a look at my run-in with them:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3309529&postcount=75
After that, I'd have the battery and alternator load tested.

I'd also suggest cleaning the IAC valve and testing the IAC, coil pack, ECT and IAT sensors with a multimeter, just to verify they're within spec.

If it's got the factory O2 sensor, that might be something to think about.

Check the ball joints and radius arm bushings.


That's about all I can think of right now.

 

[larrydd999]

PCV valve?

 

[mekelly]

Great suggestions, thanks!

 

[Roadrunner777]

Serpentine belt pulleys... and I might throw a couple of new relays in the glove box along with some spare bulbs. I would actually test the jack for functionality and then make sure he knows how to use it safely. Make him a couple of spare keys.... maybe disconnect the cruise control...

 

[mekelly]

Good suggestions! Will double check the jack tomorrow. Thanks.

 

[Wolfie_85]

Make sure the cable holding the spare underneath isn't rusted to the point that it could soon fail. Often overlooked, often regretted.

 

[vq5speed]

All the small vacuum lines seems to get harden and begin to crack and not seal good. I replaced all mine with new rubber hoses. Check all the bigger vacuum hoses to make sure there getting a tight seal. I read here of people having issues with the water temp sender and sensor. I replaced both mine cause there inexpensive parts. I replaced my crankshaft sensor cause its inexpensive. On your 94 you have a camshaft sensor might think about replacing that. Replace the TPS is 30 dollars the other thing that goes out is the FPR but that is a 75 dollar part new.

 

[cogs]

did you check the other pulleys for bearing play?

natenkiki2004

esp. the idler (check center nut) and tensioner pullies.