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Removal of MAF sensor

mekelly

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October 13, 2014
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City, State
Marietta, GA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 Ford Explorer XLT
What tool is needed to remove the MAF sensor? Is it a reverse Torx? What size?

Searched through my toolbox and don't seem to have that one!

Thanks!
 



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It varies, some aftermarket sensors use standard Phillips head. More common is the factory style modified Torx, called an anti-tamper/anti-theft/safety Torx, which has a pin in the center of an otherwise standard Torx hole. You can buy the bits at most parts stores for cheap, just look for a complete set of bits in a rubber case and it's usually under $5. Or, you can use a standard Torx if you break off the center pin, but that's a trail fix type situation. Of course you can always replace the fasteners with a normal Phillips head of the same thread size.
 






That's what it is. It's the pin in the center that's throwing me off! Don't have any of those. I'll check around and see who carries them. Thanks!
 






Just take a tiny drill bit, just a little bigger than the pin, and drill the pin off. I've done it to all of mine. I can't stand weird style screws, there is just no need for them. IMO flat, star (torx), and square is all you need. You don't even see square in automotive. I personally hate philips just because of how prone they are to stripping. Sorry for the rant, I just cant understand why manufacturers use dozens of different styles of screws.
 






Agreed! I went again and purchased a set of 8 at Home Depot for $7. Figured for that price I'd just throw it in the toolbox for the next time (if ever) I need one!
 






I took a dremel to it, so I can use a flat head. Flat heads are the best :D
 






Mine are phillips and the next time I need to pull it off, I'm going to the hardware store and seeing if I can get some nice allen cap head screws. Just an FYI, phillips, by design, are meant to strip out (proper term is cam out) so you can't over-tighten them. Horrible for today's mechanical fasteners. Torx provides the most surface area for torquing but can warp or bend with use (my fuel rail studs are this way). Allen seems to be the choice for long-term reusability as far as I've found. Tight fit and with the cap style heads, there's meat you can grab with a pair of vice grips if you really had to.
 






I went to the auto parts store and picked up a set of the anti-tamper bits. Less than $15, if I recall. Well worth it!
 






FWIW, Torx "safety" screws may often be loosened by gripping the outside of the head, when accessible by small vise grips and very carefully nudging the screw loose. They may slip off, but usually, I've succeeded this way. I then throw the screws away in disgust, as, obviously, the hole in the bit greatly weakens it. imp
 






It does. But it was a cheap solution to a small problem that reduces the amount of effort needed to overcome it in the future. I -always- encounter those damn safety screws. :p I just used them last night...on an amp.
 






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